MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Inline FabricationTitan Reloading
Lee PrecisionLoad DataReloading EverythingRepackbox
Wideners Snyders Jerky
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Lee 6 gang prep

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    Johnch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    3,516

    Lee 6 gang prep

    I just got a Lee 6 gang mold . I also have sent in 2 checks for group buys .
    Other than the standard degreasing
    What should I do ?
    Before I smoke the mold and fire up the lead pot

    Johnch
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a LOADED Hell Cat

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    1,605
    Some do a lot, I clean the mold, start to pour a few, lube the pins with a LITTLE boolit lube, lube the sprue bolt and the one that locks the plate down with a LITTLE lube. I then clean it agian with some spray cleaner and a toothbrush while its warm. I pour a few more, smoke it with a butane lighter and away it goes, smooth sailing.

    There are some articles, one on castpics and One I think at the top of this page that says Check out the cast boolit articles. Read them and draw your own conclusion.

    I have yet to get a stubborn or problem 6 cavity mold.

    David

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Johnch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Posts
    3,516
    I read the sticky .
    But I wanted to also see if there were any other good ideas
    I degreased the mold and installed the handels .
    Hopefuly I can try it out Sun Am

    WORK the worst of the 4 letter words

    Johnch
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a LOADED Hell Cat

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio, almost as N and W as you can be :-)
    Posts
    2,915
    I take the sprue plate and run a norton orange india stone over both the underside of the sprue plate and the tops of the mold blocks, there are burrs on both places at times. I use a half round stone, and I lightly chamfer the sides of the sprue plate, and the slot where it goes under the hold down bolt, and apply lube upon re-assembly.

    scrub with dish soap and a toothbrush, I prefer to warm the blocks with a bushel or two of bullets (about 5 minutes worth) then smoke them with butane grill lighter. This makes sure they are bone dry when I smoke them.

    Then I run them back to front, and front to back to see if one works better...if one direction works better I pour them that way.

    then commence to making bullets.

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Deep South Texas
    Posts
    12,820
    All I have done is scrub the block well with detergent and a soft toothbrush. I rinse in hot tap water and dry with a blow dryer. Each cavity and the top of the blocks and entire spru cutter get a coat of NEI Mold Prep and I start casting.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy pdgraham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Kokomo, Indiana
    Posts
    100
    As I just found out with my Lee 6 cavity and 2 cavity molds... Take the Micrometer to the first batch of bullets.. because you may find that many of the cavities are casting undersized bullets or they are out of round...

    Lapping may be in order..

    Oh, and don't forget to lube them up with Alox Beeswax Mix Bullet Lube Stick or you'll get bound up when the mold gets hot..
    Last edited by pdgraham; 09-18-2005 at 07:35 AM.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator




    Buckshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    So. California
    Posts
    11,833
    ............If you don't HAVE to do anything beyond cleaning/degreasing, then don't. Give the block faces a good looking over, use a handheld glass or just the Mk1Mod1 eyeball detector if nothing else. You might find a couple tiny aluminum flakes between the blocks carried in by coolant in the machining op.

    On occasion you may find a couple cavities that have a burr or 2 across the parting line. As they're cut a bit of metal may get smeared across the seam. Maybe not. If so your fingernail may do the job. You're read the articles and the sticky.

    Lube is ultra important to these moulds. It's life or death. You will invariably at some time use a bit too much, but don't fail in using some, and when the mould wants it. Be thoughtfull in the use of the sprueplate as you have a lot of leverage on the hinge pin way down there at the other end of the block.

    ............Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check