9mm case bulge.

[dakotashooter2]

I am the person who suggested that Lee Precision make a kit to de-bulge .40 S&W cases. I called them to get a single die and the guy asked what I was using it for. I told him the story of how bulged brass in .40 S&W's was a problem and that people on YouTube were using the FCD with the taper crimp removed to de bulge the cases before reloading them normally.

I also told them it would be a good new product for them and apparently they listened as the Bulge Buster Kit came to market 3 months later. As such I'm takin' credit for it. YOMCWM! (Your opinion may conflict with mine.)


Randy

Al ? Is that you?

[Bullwolf]

I have a Glock 19 and I have a 9mm cylinder for a Ruger Blackhawk. After firing the Glock and reloading the brass it will not chamber in my Ruger because the Glock leaves a bulge on the brass. How do I take that bulge out of the brass. No problem with new brass or previously fired revolver brass.

I assume you are describing the bulge or guppy belly in the base of the brass, and not wasp waisted 9mm.

Often soft brass, and higher pressure loads fired in an unsupported chamber yield this sort of bulging result.



If the bulging is mild, I use a carbide die, or undersize die and a shaved shell holder to remove it. If I cant easily re-size the base again I toss the brass.

I've often heard this referred to as a Glock Smile. While I do not own any Glock pistols, they are not the only guns capable of doing this. Many guns out there have moderate or minimal case support, and often no problems will arise from it.

If the bulge is obvious like this, I scrap the brass because I don't want to experience a case failure.

I'd probably fire mildly bulged resized brass in a revolver (if it fit) but I wouldn't fire the brass again in an auto with an unsupported chamber after resizing the bulge.

It would be too easy for me to mix the brass up. I would be more likely to segregate all my bulged brass head stamps, and scrap it, or leave it on the ground someplace to corrode away to nothing, rather than taking the chance of mixing it up with my other 9mm brass.

If it happened often, I'd buy a aftermarket barrel with more chamber support because I'd be worried about the unsupported base area blowing out on me at some point.



I'd be even more worried about it this with a Glock or any other plastic framed gun, instead of an all metal handgun as a blow out will likely crack and ruin the plastic frame (serialized receiver part) and cut my hand when it happens. In a pistol with a metal lower it tends to just blow the magazine out of the mag well, and you just get a big scare, and some brass fragments.



I would hate to restrict myself to only shooting extremely light loads in the gun. It would annoy the heck out of me if one gun messed up the brass for all my other 9mm firearms. I'd either get a later gen barrel, or an aftermarket barrel to prevent this from happening, or else I would get rid of the pistol.



- Bullwolf

[MGnoob]

I never seen a bulge like Bullwolf 's photo shows...I only use brass i pick-up and run it through a case pro, anything that jams due to bad rim or burrs from extraction get scrapped. When running the machine if you listen close you can hear how much they are being sized and if they are cracked or not..
it's not a very practical suggestion due to the cost of the unit compared to a $10 fix suggested above.

I run my brass through this machine every-time i reload it, before this i had to use a case gauge on every round....this was my solution to the 2 cartages per 1000 that would jam up...Over-kill definately, but it make me happy.

[Psypher]

I have a Glock 19 and I have a 9mm cylinder for a Ruger Blackhawk. After firing the Glock and reloading the brass it will not chamber in my Ruger because the Glock leaves a bulge on the brass. How do I take that bulge out of the brass. No problem with new brass or previously fired revolver brass.

Now you wil all have me checking my 9 brass from my 19 the next trip to the range with factory ammo.

First rule with Glocks, don't shoot reloads through the factory barrel unless they are jacketed. I went with a storm lake for my 17 and a lone wolf on the 19. The LWD arrel shoots much better than the storm lake. I have zero problems feeding these to other semiautos, but a revolver may give tude due to the likelihood of moonclips.

[MGnoob]

Now you wil all have me checking my 9 brass from my 19 the next trip to the range with factory ammo.

First rule with Glocks, don't shoot reloads through the factory barrel unless they are jacketed. .................

I don't own a glock but what would whether the projectile is jacketed or not have to do with case bulge/or blowout do to poor support from the stock barrel?
i am assuming your going to say pressure or pressure curve?

[tomme boy]

Oh NO! the you can't shoot lead in a Glock comment!

[Bonz]

I run all my 9mm brass thru my CasePro roll sizer

[Psypher]

Oh NO! the you can't shoot lead in a Glock comment!

Can and have in the EXO treated barrel. My aftermarket barrel performed better and had a different feel in the recoil. What I witnessed in Georgia was a crushed polygon rifling from lead reloads. You can bet it was improperly sized.

So, if someone can explain the differing feel of the recoil I would like to better understand that.

[Psypher]

I don't own a glock but what would whether the projectile is jacketed or not have to do with case bulge/or blowout do to poor support from the stock barrel?
i am assuming your going to say pressure or pressure curve?

My mashup didn't clearly send the message. Case bulge is not something I have looked at due to using my aftermarket barrel so much. The next time I go to the range with the 17 amd 19 I will check the barrels, oem and aftermarket. Fire a coiple from each and bag them for researching the bulge.

I have reloaded brass from my oem Glock barrels without issues. BOLO is taken into consideration now. Love this group just for that reason.

[dkf]

Can and have in the EXO treated barrel. My aftermarket barrel performed better and had a different feel in the recoil. What I witnessed in Georgia was a crushed polygon rifling from lead reloads. You can bet it was improperly sized.

So, if someone can explain the differing feel of the recoil I would like to better understand that.

How do you crush hammer forged hardened steel rifling with a lead bullet that was more than likely well under 20 BHN?

[tomme boy]

[Psypher]

It wasn't mine and not my ammo, so I have not a clue. I would not have taken notice if he hadn't put it next to the barrel of my G30. It didn't matter to me since I always shot factory ammo until the past year or so. I would wager it was not sized right, but being a pup in reloading that would be only an assumption and not something I am willing to test.

I'm a big, gotta see it to believe it guy. I received this little nugget of education about the time I bought my first CZ-52 and was force fed headstamp education on the 7.62x25, same guy.