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Thread: Canoe build part 1

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Canoe build part 1

    Well guys, phase one of my canoe build is about to start.
    There is a website called kickstarter. It is a website for projects to get backing (funding) for creative projects. I started a project there that just launched today. I am going to build a cedar strip canoe for a local boy scout troop. [FONT=arial]
    I'll keep everyone abreast of what's going on with the build here too with pics
    Last edited by prsman23; 10-02-2014 at 12:57 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Update #1

    The plans came in today. So things are actually starting to come together. I ended up ordering the bear mountain prospector 16'.
    Found the source of some clear western red cedar in 17' boards.

    I'm looking for suggestions on a few feature full length strips. What would mix well with the cedar? Any ideas?







    Trebek can hardly contain his excitement about the new canoe. Can you tell?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    I met a guy who has made some of those.... they are a thing of beauty!

    good luck to you!
    I am ONLY responsible for what I Say!
    I am NOT responsible for what You THINK I Said!
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    If numbers killed I'd hunt with a Calculator!

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Pinsnscrews's Avatar
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    Glad to see it starting up. Don't mind me as I make up some popcorn and watch it unfold...
    GRANDPARENTS AGAINST RETINOBLASTOMA, BECAUSE NO CHILD SHOULD HAVE CANCER

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Found some lumber today. I'm going to get started milling this weekend!


  6. #6
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    Are you ripping 3/4" boards into thiner stock? Can you find the thickness you need? Is it 3/8, 1/4",or something else?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I'll be planing them down and ripping them into about 1 billion 1/4" thick strips about 5/8 tall.

  8. #8
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    That's a small strip! A thin kerf blade will help avoid turning too much wood into sawdust.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    I'm looking forward to the finished product.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUKE NUKEM View Post
    I'm looking forward to the finished product.
    Me too. I bought a second set of plans just to be adventurous. I'm planning on taking my time on this one. Just setting it up as a bunch of smaller projects for now. This week I'll be getting everything set up in preparation for milling the strips.


    I need to put together some sort of support system for these 18' boards. I ordered a book from laughing loon. He's got some good ideas. Also got the DVD set from bear mountain. Real nice folks.

    Next week I should start on the strips. The next the strong back.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Canoe build part 1

    It's been a while since I've updated. Lots of things got in the way. Finished planing the wood to final thickness today. My next planned workday is Saturday. Hopefully I'll be ripping the strips then.






  12. #12
    Boolit Bub danthman114's Avatar
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    flux for the next 100 years or so...

    ive always wanted to build one but dont have the talent... lol cant wait to see the finished product.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah. That's why I collected it. I may send some out as pifs to new casters!

    Trust me. I have no talent. Just trying to build some skill. I've never tackled anything like this before.

  14. #14
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    Do you have the bits to mill the noses and coves onto the edges of your planking? What are you using as mold stations on your strong back? MDF works great.

    Having built a couple small craft using the cold molding system (up to and including a wooden 35 foot sail boat), the most emphatic word of advice I can pass along is over engineer your strongback "stronger" than you think is necessary, and sweat bullets making that rascal straighter than straight and dead level. Any compromises will magnify themselves into real issues as the build progresses.

    Good luck and have fun! (It sounds like you are!)

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnoahhh View Post
    Do you have the bits to mill the noses and coves onto the edges of your planking? What are you using as mold stations on your strong back? MDF works great.

    Having built a couple small craft using the cold molding system (up to and including a wooden 35 foot sail boat), the most emphatic word of advice I can pass along is over engineer your strongback "stronger" than you think is necessary, and sweat bullets making that rascal straighter than straight and dead level. Any compromises will magnify themselves into real issues as the build progresses.

    Good luck and have fun! (It sounds like you are!)
    I keep going back and fourth on the head and cove. Since I'm making the strips myself I'm leaning towards a rolling bevel. I don't think I will have the will to setup the router and I'm not convinced they are worth the extra effort. Probably going to follow the laughing loon guys advise on doing a 3 degree bevel on the strips and hand bevel the extra few that may need it.

    From what I've read it seems the extra "glue" area is kind of a moot point. The rigidity of the craft seems to be all in the fiberglass and epoxy. And I think by the time Id get the router setup perfectly Id have wasted more wood than I want to and could have been stripping the hull for a good while. Plus the fact that many many canoes were built before the whole bead and cove thing suggests I'll be ok without.

    I was going to use the mdf for the forms and a good quality 3/4 ply for the strong back. I've planned to use the bear mountain strongback. I'm hoping to plan ahead and make it versatile enough for the two I'm planning to build. One being a 17' and the other a 14'.

    Any suggestions or differing opinions sought after and not ignored. It's my first rodeo so to speak so help a guy out if Ya can!

  16. #16
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    Sounds like you have a good grip on the process. I'm sure you'll do just fine.

    You're right, most of the strength in that hull will come from the fiberglass cloth layers , both inside and out. A nice touch is to add a top layer of kevlar cloth below the water line. It provides a lot of abrasion resistance and is well worth the extra cost. I like the bead and cove because it gives a modicum of lock which comes in handy when laying in the planking, especially if you work single-handedly. I wouldn't change course though were I in your shoes at this point, just something to consider for the next one.

  17. #17
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    I was planing on giving b&c a shot on the next one. That way I have something to compare it with. Good idea on the Kevlar. Any idea how much weight it adds?

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Virtually no more than a layer of fiberglass, and you'll want to add an extra layer of 'glass on the bottom anyway. Just substitute the Kevlar for the 'glass. A couple seasons in shallow creeks and you'll be glad you did.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Are you going to bead and cove the edges? I have a link to the router bit sight that has the bits.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Not this build. The next.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check