Boolit stuck in my point form die

[GerryM]

Heres how I do it FWIW I rotate the pin until its out of the bullet and get it up to a safe level.
Then I put a piece of scrap lead on the punch and raise the ram. again. This pushes the bullet farther into the die closing up the hole .
Then on the down stroke it ejects. I hope this does it for you.

[midnight]

Lafaun got it right! I have found that the most common cause of sticking a bullet or jacket in a die is that the bullet or jacket was too big to begin with. Hence, do not run a bullet into the point form twice. I just got upstairs from removing a stuck jacket when I tried to seat a core in a BT-1 die. The ejection pin punched a neat circle of guilding metal from the base of the jacket and pushed the core right out. Now I've got a jacket stuck in the die with the end tapered down to the size of the ejection pin. It all happened because my 7mm jackets measured 0.284. I made them by drawing down 0.307 jackets and my die is a thousanth too big. Another lesson pounded home. You cannot swage down, only up.

Bob

[aaronraad]

Lafaun got it right! I have found that the most common cause of sticking a bullet or jacket in a die is that the bullet or jacket was too big to begin with. Hence, do not run a bullet into the point form twice. I just got upstairs from removing a stuck jacket when I tried to seat a core in a BT-1 die. The ejection pin punched a neat circle of guilding metal from the base of the jacket and pushed the core right out. Now I've got a jacket stuck in the die with the end tapered down to the size of the ejection pin. It all happened because my 7mm jackets measured 0.284. I made them by drawing down 0.307 jackets and my die is a thousanth too big. Another lesson pounded home. You cannot swage down, only up.

Bob

Funny you mention that, I recently had the same issue with a new 308cal BT-1 die I received in a set. Nothing like trying to get a jacket shell seized to the die wall with a 3/8" drill bit. By the 3rd time I figured it was something I was doing wrong with seating pressure and punch diameter because all the lube in the world made no difference.

Ended up polishing the die myself with a polishing felt on a Dremel tool and some Meguire's Cut and Polish. Upon inspection the surface finish was just smooth enough not to show up on an ejected jacket but not smooth enough if seating pressure spiked. I used a x30 magnifying glass to check and compare but it's a bit difficult when looking at two different core seating dies made with two different materials and different calibres. The grain structure is different and the amount of light coming through changes the appearance. Did a comparison check by feel using a cotton ear bud and just dragging it along the surface until the BT-1 die had as little drag as the other core seating dies I have in my collection. After each polish I would clean and flush with a carby cleaner aerosol and another couple of cotton ear buds. I always keep a pack of 100 cotton ear buds on the shelf with my swaging dies.

[kweidner]

The three most useful tips have already been said. I use the brass screw method, only point form once. What's more important the 300+ pf or the .10 jacket? Flitz on the third! Be patient. Seems like they all need a bit of breaking in and that varies from maker to maker. Once you have succesfully run 1000 or so, seating pressures become much less it seems.

[Cane_man]

another fan for cotton "earbuds" or swabs as we call em here! great for cleaning the die and pre-lubing, and you can use it to polish as well with some Flitz