22 rimfire bullets start to finish

[Lizard333]

Wet tumbling will remove all the powder residue, effectively neutralizing the live primer.

I'd sell brass you have as found. Let the buying deal it. I'd prefer this as that I know how its been processed.

You can use most of the 22 brass for swaging. The 22WMR makes a great jacket you use if you have a way to trim it.

[NewbieDave007]

Lizard,

I appreciate the information. The reason that I asked about what I could do, with my resources, was in order to deal with the rare instance of a primer before I sent it out. It wasn’t for any other reason than my own piece of mind before sending this off to someone that may hurt themselves, or damage their equipment.

I also understand someone taking precautions on their side also (as I would), but I would hate to hear of anything happening because of something I sold or traded someone. Selling/Trading the brass is just not worth that risk without me doing something before it leaves. Maybe I’m over thinking it, but someone earlier made a comment that led to the idea that he might have inadvertently set off a primer without know it, or expecting it.

I guess that brings me to a follow up question if you don’t mind. Would it do any harm to the brass if I soaked them in a citric bath, dried them, and then sold them if the buyer were to do what you guys normally do with them? Basically, is there any harm to your finished product for me to have my piece of mind?

Thanks.
Dave

[MightyThor]

I have used the 22 mag and the 17 HMR to make bullets for 243 and 25 cal. As stated they need to be trimmed for the various uses, but they are all useable. I have a thread about the 25 cal stuff floating around here somewhere.

Found it.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...tart-to-finish

[Lizard333]

Lizard,

I appreciate the information. The reason that I asked about what I could do, with my resources, was in order to deal with the rare instance of a primer before I sent it out. It wasn’t for any other reason than my own piece of mind before sending this off to someone that may hurt themselves, or damage their equipment.

I also understand someone taking precautions on their side also (as I would), but I would hate to hear of anything happening because of something I sold or traded someone. Selling/Trading the brass is just not worth that risk without me doing something before it leaves. Maybe I’m over thinking it, but someone earlier made a comment that led to the idea that he might have inadvertently set off a primer without know it, or expecting it.

I guess that brings me to a follow up question if you don’t mind. Would it do any harm to the brass if I soaked them in a citric bath, dried them, and then sold them if the buyer were to do what you guys normally do with them? Basically, is there any harm to your finished product for me to have my piece of mind?

Thanks.
Dave

Your not going to hurt anything. I tumble all of my brass in SS media with citric acid and dish soap.

[Bello]

Pretty cool

[justing]

very cool

[NewbieDave007]

Sweet! Thanks for the info guys.

[millsa2]

Great Thread. Good Info

[daveinsvaz]

I have a C&H die set I use in a modified RCBS Rockchucker press. Several hundred bullets are on their way to Montana for a prarie dog shoot now
Lately I have been experimenting using a small aluminum core (under the lead core) at the base of the bullet to push the weight (balance point?) of the bullet forward. Has anyone done anything similar?
I bulk anneal my 22 cases first, it make the 'deriming' phase a lot easier. I take a small, covered, cast iron pot with the 22 cases inside, put it in my old big BBQ. Pile charcoal and mesquite logs all around and over the pot. Light and let it burn itself out (put the ash in the garden). Let the cases cool naturally. Saves a lot of pressure in the press!

[fredj338]

Not sure why you would want to move the weight forward. Often that makes the bullet unstable, most try to get the wt further to the rear of the bullet????

[TangoDownPro]

WOW. That is really cool. I know Corbin sells a small benchtop setup that makes .224 bullets from fired 22 LR cases. That is another venture I thought about one day. Thanks for posting.

[newcastter]

I know this has been answered a million times but I cannot find it, so here we go again. What is the best size SS pins for cleaning 22lr brass for swaging? Also what is the best size for both cleaning 22lr that I could also use on my 9mm 40S&W and 45ACP???

[supe47]

I bought mine from the sponsor STM on the top of this page. Bought the Deluxe kit. Completely happy.
http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

[fredj338]

I know this has been answered a million times but I cannot find it, so here we go again. What is the best size SS pins for cleaning 22lr brass for swaging? Also what is the best size for both cleaning 22lr that I could also use on my 9mm 40S&W and 45ACP???

I also use the pins form STM for cleaning 22lr jackets after annealing. They work fine for any brass case. Larger pins will probably not clean the inside of the jackets well.

[newcastter]

I also use the pins form STM for cleaning 22lr jackets after annealing. They work fine for any brass case. Larger pins will probably not clean the inside of the jackets well.

Well my ultrasonic cleaner went south on me and I am trying to figure out if I want to buy a new one or change over to a tumbler with SS pins.

[Lizard333]

I use the SS pins from STM. I've bought two complete sets for myself. I've got secret buddies that are happy with theirs. I just did about 600 22LR cases today. These are freshly sorted and cleaned prior to derimming.

Not bad.....

[Rhino77]

I am also getting good results with Stainless steel tumbling my .22 long rifle cases. I have the Thumler's tumbler. My dry tumblers haven't been touched since I started SS tumbling. I highly recommend it. I also bought my setup from STM.

[BT Sniper]

Talking SS media tumblers. I also bought one from STM. I got the large $800 kit. Works great for cleaning a lot of brass and is just the right size for cleaning a 100 or more 50 BMG cases but is WAY TOO BIG and HEAVY for simple 22lr jacket cleaning. The weight of the barrel full of brass, SS media and water is enough to cause me injury concerns. Get the more convenient sized tumbler and you will be very pleased with the results SS media does for cleaning our 22lr jackets and finished bullets.

BT

p.s. I now use my ultrasonic cleaner primarily for cleaning tools.

[Bonz]

Talking SS media tumblers. I also bought one from STM. I got the large $800 kit. Works great for cleaning a lot of brass and is just the right size for cleaning a 100 or more 50 BMG cases but is WAY TOO BIG and HEAVY for simple 22lr jacket cleaning. The weight of the barrel full of brass, SS media and water is enough to cause me injury concerns. Get the more convenient sized tumbler and you will be very pleased with the results SS media does for cleaning our 22lr jackets and finished bullets.

BT

p.s. I now use my ultrasonic cleaner primarily for cleaning tools.

I bought the same setup from STM. Agree that the drum with everything is heavy but it sure is nice to be able to wash 15 pounds of brass at a time.

[Renofish]

Does anyone have 22 long rifle empty casings for sale for trade?

I have been making bullets for coyote and plinking them for years them. As for groups, expect about 1" at 100 yds on an average. Yes you can work and get smaller groups, but consider the average to hover at about an inch with a good rifle.
Also, I anneal before I de-rim and then anneal again after I de-rim. I have a kiln, so I can do quite a bit a lot of them at a time.
I would like to clear the air for those less informed and that are thinking about making 22 bullets from 22 LF casings on a few things that are TRUE with my years of making them and shooting them.
I do not agree with Corbin and the rest of you who claim 3000 to 3200 fps to be the maximum speed these bullets can be shot at, before they come apart. I believe most of you are only reporting what you have read in magazines/books and on line. (do not believe everything you read on line) I use several 22-250 and 220 Swifts rifles with a 1-14 twist and having shot hundreds if not thousands of my bullets made on Corbin steel dies, Simonson steel dies and Detsch carbide steel dies, I have NOT HAD ONE bullet come apart on target at any distance at these high speeds, made with long rifle jackets. You might want to read the last line again!
I believe those that have speed related issues with their bullets coming apart are due to not annealing twice and/or not at all or just once. There are so many variables in making bullets from long rifle casing that anyone of them could contribute to the quality of your bullets. Each step in the process will affect the outcome of your finished bullet. Also when shooting bullets, the rifle’s twists, such as 1-7, 1-8, 1-9 or 1-10 along with speed will affect spinning forces placed on of your bullet. It is this combination above that I mentioned that I believe is one of the most critical determine factor on bullets coming apart. If that is the case then when you write something on the internet to new readers and/or potential new bullet makers, please do not claim these bullets are limited to a pre set speed without disclosing all factors.
I shoot many 50 to 52 grain long rifle jacketed bullets at close to 4000 fps without any problems. So for those of you who are interested in making varmints, target, hunting or just plinking bullets from your 22 long rifle casing, throw away the velocity maximums you read on line or in print as it is totally misleading. Please before anyone post maximum speed as definitive, you must test AND LISTS all the details in bullet construction procedures, components along with your test rifle’s twist and bullet speed and then you will be taken a little more credible.