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Thread: Magma Master Caster Mold in Brass?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    146

    Magma Master Caster Mold in Brass?

    Anyone commission a brass mold for the Master Caster?

    I figured a mold attached to a heat source would transmit more heat than by hand. But am unclear on whether typical casting temperature could overheat/result in mold warpage.

    Not knowing a temperature range of the mold during a casting session doesn't make predicting easier. Fwiw, I find that I cast about ~700-750-- magma manual (not digital) dial. Usually about an hour or so at a time, though that could increase as weather cools. Also, when lead solidifies in orifice plate, experience has taught me just turning it up to 800 setting for maybe 10 or so minutes will result in lead liquifying.

    Price is a factor in the decision making. If it weren't I wouldn't even consider it over iron. However, if the consensus is its risky, I won't do it.


    Forgot to add: Interest is gas check specific. Otherwise, I'd order from Magma. There PB range and price is economical apart from the limited GC designs
    Last edited by chloe123; 08-06-2014 at 01:50 AM.

  2. #2
    Moderator



    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oregon Coast
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    10,248
    When I get on my Master Caster, it's normally for a 6 to 8 hour session. The cast iron molds get pretty warm during these casting sessions, and I find that about every 60 to 70 casts, I need to let the open mold set under the fan for a minute to cool it back down. I normally cast at right around 700 degrees, depending on the bullet.

    When the orifice freezes up from adding a large amount of cold alloy, just hit it for a few seconds with a Bernz-a-Matic torch and you'll be back in business in seconds. I also cast my alloy into 10 pound ingots and pre-warm them on the top of the pot while I'm casting. By the time the pot will take the ingot, it's pretty hot, and won't freeze up your pot. (hint: Don't go to lunch and forget you've got an ingot heating on top of the pot....)

    I don't see why a brass mold won't work. I've got one aluminum mold for the Master Caster, and it heats up very, very fast, but it's for casting cores for bullet swaging, so it really doesn't matter how hot it gets. The brass may have to be cooled more often that cast iron, though.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    146
    Appreciate your opinion , and time you take for a thorough response

    I'm at work so I gotta be brief . I reached out to Accurate Molds yesterday evening
    ill keep a log on this thread as it may help others in the future


    ....I'll update later

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check