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Thread: Homemade Lube, Geargnasher's SL68 recipe

  1. #221
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    Grump, I woulda thought that you woulda figgered it out by now???? God Bless to you and yours.

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  2. #222
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    Well, ya old chain-puller*, I have poked around in the other thread and elsewhere and I think also a PM to Gear or R5 or someone and determined that this version (not the little tweak attempt that led to flyers) was indeed a total cold-weather success.

    I'm ...this... close to begging one of the experimenters to sell me the equivalent of 2-4 sticks of it. But being one who is not really afraid to shoot at temps between 100° and 112°F, I remain holding out for some Texas or hot New Mexico or Death Valley (nevermind that though) testing. Our guys who call it "hot" at 90° just have different standards than I do.

    *aren't ya glad I'm not a porcelain water tank bolted up high on the wall?

  3. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grump View Post
    snip...

    I'm ...this... close to begging one of the experimenters to sell me the equivalent of 2-4 sticks of it. But being one who is not really afraid to shoot at temps between 100° and 112°F, I remain holding out for some Texas or hot New Mexico or Death Valley (nevermind that though) testing. Our guys who call it "hot" at 90° just have different standards than I do.
    Gear has successfully tested his original recipe in last summer's Texas Heat.

    As I stated on the "Quest" thread:
    "I will never be making this for the purpose of selling it" ...and I can only guess that no one else will either, because of the process of cooking/blending it. I can only imagine making successful batches of this on a small scale with normal household lube cooking tools. Of course, there are those who are much smarter than me who may figure out how to easily make large batches of this lube, successfully.
    BTW, A batch (equivalent to about three sticks), takes an afternoon to make, when you include setup and cleanup. My suggestion, If you can wrangle up some microwaxes, you should make a batch and see what you think of the whole process.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  4. #224
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    Been a while.

    What's the final verdict on this #68 version of Satan's Lube?

    Poking around several sites, I find:
    SL-68
    SL-68.1
    SL-68-B with beeswax instead of something
    SL-68.1.1, pretty sure it's the only variation also called 68-eleven or something...

    I seem to remember that one tweak was tested and found to be not worth it--no improvement and might have even picked up a minor problem.

  5. #225
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    My final verdict ?
    I love it, works great !
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  6. #226
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    Can you please post your final recipe?
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  7. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkins45 View Post
    Can you please post your final recipe?
    Thought I replied last night...

    Not sure that JonB_in_Glencoe is at liberty to do so
    I haven't kept track of the players in the soap opera, but from posts on two or three other sites (including one that seems to be banned [former?] member Starmetal's own echo chamber), it appears that some people exchanging feelings of being offended by each other has led to a decision by at least two people to not share much over here any more.

    Notice the lack of activity in the Extreme Lube thread?

    IIRC, another person (NOT Gear!) even deleted almost all of his own posts on another forum, IMO in revenge for some unfair and sometimes uninformed criticisms of his conclusions.

    So what I'm trying to sort out is exactly what fourth component is and in what ratio it is used. I know I've seen it, I remember reading it, but since I wasn't playing historian the two times it appeared on my computer screen I gets confoozed easily. So after I get some important Gottadoit and Honeydo stuff done this weekend, I might just dig it all up and PM you with the 68.1 version if I can still find it. I have no interest in the -B version using beeswax because of the temperature dance needed to add that all-natural ingredient to the basic sodium soap lube formula. How to get my hands on the microwaxes is yet to be seen...

    Just looked again and the original Satan's Lube as developed by Mike "357maximum" IIRC his username, uses 6 ounces of beeswax... The 4th ingredient there giving the +1 or -1 in some versions of the name is the ivory soap.

    SL-68 trades out the beeswax for, I think, a single microwax. It might be a 175°F melt point thing. What I haven't yet sorted out is whether or not JonB's modification of it to a B version (no hypen, that's me who wants to call it SL68-B) that puts back in 1/3 of that beeswax also makes other substitutions or any additions. THAT B version has castor oil, USP-grade mineral oil, 90-wt gear oil, and modern "vaseline" petrolatum blended in with three microwaxes.

    The SL68B recipe has been posted elsewhere, but as stated above, I'm wanting to stay away from beeswax, at least for soap lubes.

    I hope this doesn't get me banned.

  8. #228
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    So where has GEAR been?

  9. #229
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    Was the original SL61 base 4.5 oz Ivory,4 oz. tranny goo and 4 oz. bwax? I had it written it down but now can't find it. I have used up what I made and it worked great in the .38 spl/.357 mag rifle and pistol and want to make more.

    Found it:
    The SL-61 (beta) version is equal parts by weight Ivory soap straight from the wrapper (water weight is counted for the recipe), Dr. Tranny Assemblee Goo (heavy paraffinic oils, not the napthenic flavors of transmission assembly gels), and hard, yellow beeswax. This is a fairly firm base that is perfect for lube-sizers with no heat, and can take a few percent of oils yet without becoming too sticky/soft.
    Last edited by fecmech; 07-30-2015 at 02:33 PM.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

  10. #230
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    The original formula specs a 140 weight GL-1 oil. That stuff is hard to find without ordering a huge jug. The GL-1 spec is just mineral oil base without any of the extreme pressure additives of later specs. Why are the extreme pressure addidives bad: too slick?

    Which would be a better substitute: a 30W non-detergent oil or a 50W conventional engine oil with the normal additives? I going to mix up a batch of something because I think my 35 xcb failures might be corrected or at least reduced with a 'stronger' lube. The 26" barrel of my Whelen seems to be consuming all of the minimal lube payload of that bullet before it makes it to the muzzle.

    Next test: pure lithium grease.
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  11. #231
    bhn22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    So where has GEAR been?
    He went to the new casting site with btroj, CBRick, and others that are still doing both boards.

  12. #232
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    Which one? NOE forum or CBA forum? I am on all of them and have not seen gear anywhere????? I miss his advice!

  13. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkins45 View Post
    The original formula specs a 140 weight GL-1 oil. That stuff is hard to find without ordering a huge jug. The GL-1 spec is just mineral oil base without any of the extreme pressure additives of later specs. Why are the extreme pressure addidives bad: too slick?

    Which would be a better substitute: a 30W non-detergent oil or a 50W conventional engine oil with the normal additives? I going to mix up a batch of something because I think my 35 xcb failures might be corrected or at least reduced with a 'stronger' lube. The 26" barrel of my Whelen seems to be consuming all of the minimal lube payload of that bullet before it makes it to the muzzle.

    Next test: pure lithium grease.
    I used 90 wt GL-1 Gear oil it's available from Napa.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    Which one? NOE forum or CBA forum? I am on all of them and have not seen gear anywhere????? I miss his advice!
    ...snip...

    It's a big world, and so far on the internet there is ALWAYS some "real estate" where anyone can set up their own thing.
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 08-01-2015 at 03:28 PM. Reason: info was not for open posting

  15. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhn22 View Post
    He went to the new casting site with btroj, CBRick, and others that are still doing both boards.
    I

    If I have the right guy in mind, Gear has also been shooting a bit less and doing more family stuff in recent months. Less to go around, sorta.

  16. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by fecmech View Post
    Was the original SL61 base 4.5 oz Ivory,4 oz. tranny goo and 4 oz. bwax? I had it written it down but now can't find it. I have used up what I made and it worked great in the .38 spl/.357 mag rifle and pistol and want to make more.

    Found it:
    I think that the SL61 series worked just fine for all handguns up to normal Magnums, but was abandoned in the Quest because it left a very hard and very hard to remove fouling layer in rifles when pressures were above some threshold like 35,000 PSI or something. It was almost sad to see that one come to an end.

  17. #237
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    I have been very happy with the beta version in the window I shoot in(1000-1450 fps plain base rifle). I don't need my heater, bulk lubed bullets do not stick together in the container and when I push the plain base velocities up in the 1400 fps range it prevents the throat leading I get with my hard lubes. I have the tub of Tranny Goo so I might as well use it up. Cooler weather coming next week so I'll make some up.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check