Well, the only thing I would have to say is, that velocity falls with heavier bullets.
About how much speed are we talking?
And which alloy are you using?
Well, the only thing I would have to say is, that velocity falls with heavier bullets.
About how much speed are we talking?
And which alloy are you using?
I sent ctious his first 100 of these boolits over-night so that he could have them for a hunt. Those particular ones he had to slow down but they were cast from almost pure lead. It was all I had at the time.
I'll get back in touch with ctious and harley45. They both have a lot of experience with the cartridge. Lets see what they say.
Personal pref
4+ cavity
Brass
no lube groove for PC
.402 as cast ?
170~180 Gr.
Multi pin set
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
I bought some 10mm plain base GC from sagesoutdoors.com for 135 gr. Haven't had time to try, alox been working for me at 1300 fps an I have high hopes for HI-tech for 3000ish fps so if I'm lucky never need to GC. They are still on sale for $4.95-100 or $26.95-1000
Blanco, how do you feel about a 190gr solid / 180gr with hollow point (for the no-lube-groove option)? Reason being that particular weight received phenomenal feedback as being especially accurate and working well in both 10mm and 40sw.
Yep I would go for a 190~180 . Which incidentally would probably be the same as the 180~170 minus the groove.
I do have a question that you may be able to answer Oreo. What is/was the major nose radius on the last .40 GB 170~165 that was just delivered? Im dooin some cookin!
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
Look at the first post of either the group buy thread or the results thread. There I have detailed blueprints posted that give you all the info needed to recreate the exact design on say, Mountain Molds' website. If you enter in the info on that site it will calculate and display any info not explicitly on the blueprint.
I'd like to jump in here and ask for a full RN in the 220-230 range. 1 or 2 lube groves and no GC.
Basically Sweeds 402-180g-rn but heavier. Would be a good bowling pin round for a 10mm revolver. Yea I know a very narrow need mold.
dave
The only part of the metric system America has embraced is the 9mm.
Remember incoming fire has the right of way
I'd buy a rn 220gr
See Some of My Holster Work Here:
www.whitetigerleatherworks.com
not that i shoot 40 or 10mm, but what about a spire point bullet?
I would be in on this.
220 - 230 grain, wfn. 2 cavity would be ok for me, because I don't think I'd be shooting a lot of these. No HP option, to get maximum weight / penetration. If that cherry would cut 160-170ish grain with out the lube groove, it would make the plinking load and cater to both ideas.
I like it so far.
Every time I rehash this WFN design ask the question: gc or no gc? The answer always comes back No-gc because it's not needed and even if it is you can use a plain-base gc. If anyone has a good counter argument for a traditional gc I'm all ears.
That said, I do believe the 135gr hp version from my last group buy might benefit from a gc but test results are not in yet. If folks can drive that one as hard as they want to without a gc then I would think it's definitely not needed on the heavier boolits.
I got my 135s to a little under 1400FPS today with no leading. Of course I powder coated them.
See Some of My Holster Work Here:
www.whitetigerleatherworks.com
JayJay1 asked a question in another thread and Oreo asked us to move it here.
He asked about moving more material outside the case.
Not sure how many know this but one of the design parameters for the .40 was that it should fit within the length of the 9mm and produce the same power as the .45ACP. The rim diameter of the .40 is the same as the 9mm also. The original concept was that 9mm pistols could be converted to .40 with just a barrel swap. This idea was mostly abandoned when it was discovered by the manufacturers that the frames of the 9mm pistols would crack and fail with the punishment of the .40
The .40 Miha mold I just got a few weeks ago (.40-165~170 hp/fp) uses a nose radius of about .80~.85
This is about the most lead you can have outside the case and still get reliable feeding in the .40
Attachment 113319
Again this is because of the design parameters of having the same overall length of the 9mm.
this limits the exposed nose to .285" length and also the reason you probably wont see a .40S&W with a round nose.
I researched the same questions of why there were no round nose boolits in .40 .
If someone has any information to add to that I would welcome your input.
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
I am interested in what others are doing with this mold/Boolit. In particular your load data/ accuracy results, your PC/ lube ETC. If you don't feel comfortable posting load data feel free to PM me.
Feel free to post up pictures also. I would be happy to share my experience.
What I can tell you is that I have determined, in a very unscientific manner that in my case as boolit weight, Pressure and velocity increase, accuracy will follow. I'm not really a big fan of Unique, However, in the availability crunch, I have been using what I can get. Anyhow I have tried 3 different powders so far.
Bullseye/Green Dot/ Unique and at this point I have suprisingly had my best luck with Unique at just below maximum book values. I have some Power Pistol that I REALLY like in my 9mm and would like to try with the .40, but have not had time to test yet. .40 does seem to favor the slower powders?
Last edited by Blanco; 08-12-2014 at 12:15 PM.
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
This is mostly correct. It was a primary consideration during the design phase. I wanted a heavy for caliber boolit with maximum meplate and maximum case capacity. Glocks will feed anything upto and including full soup-can style wad cutters but a meplate larger then .300" binds in glock mags (and most others too.) To get any more case capacity at a given meplate means going with a lighter (shorter) boolit which was counter to the design objective.
Heavy duty soup can
should yield 190+ Gr.
Attachment 113337
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
What you just posted is basically the 200/190gr design I did without lube groove. Removing the lube groove does add a small amount of weight.
Don't need no stinking grooves to be groovy
Do, or do not.
There is no try.
Yoda
@Blanco:
Thank you for the explanation above the .40 design.
I didnīt know this and it is very interesting, so.
About the loads:
Having some Green Dot here Iīve just used this until now, what you did too.
And it has to have grooves to get the groove...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |