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Thread: 45-70 blackpowder load data

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    45-70 blackpowder load data

    I have been shooting my Marlin 1895 and Sharps replica for some time now using smokeless powders. I would like to try some blackpowder loads using Triple 7 and/or Pyrodex RS (blackpowder is impossible to get in my area). Can anyone give me some ideas on load data? I have three cast bullets I would like to use. A 500gr, 405gr and 300gr.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    Blackpowder loads are pretty simple 70 grs of 2f with just about whatever bullet you choose. For the triple 7 and Pyrodex, you should probably refer to Hogdons on those substitute powders.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  3. #3
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    Although I've used Holy Black in single-shot rifles, I'm wondering about the possible complications of blackpowder in lever rifles and other types with more "nooks and crannies" for the fouling to hide itself within.

    How rigorous do the cleaning methods have to be in order to avoid potential rust and corrosion problems?
    Regards from BruceB in Nevada

    "The .30'06 is never a mistake." - Colonel Townsend Whelen

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    You're not going to get away from any corrosion problems (either real or mostly imagined) by going with the subs... Read the instructions folks, they all say to clean the gun as soon as possible after shooting...
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    For the most part, that brass cartridge case will save you a lot of the more onerous aspects of the cleanup. 10% Ballistol/water in patches in the bore until it is clean, wipe the outside barrel and action surfaces you can reach with Ballistol/water on a rag or Q-tip. Run a couple patches of straight Ballistol down the bore, wipe the outside and as much of the inside as you can with straight Ballistol on a rag. Spray some Ballistol into the action crevices if you are really worried.

    The 74 Sharps is easy to take apart for cleaning, and the breech bolts and cartridge lifters of most leverguns can be removed for cleaning without taking the whole rifle apart. After the above treatment, once a year remove these major action parts and wipe them down with Ballistol/water and pure Ballistol. There may or may not be some black grunge in the nooks and crannies, but the Ballistol will stabilize it so there will be no rust.

    Mostly I use actual black powder in cartridge guns. I've treated cap and ball pistols fired with Pyrodex in much the same manner as above and have seen no rusting problems so far. I unscrew and clean the nipple threads, just in case, but the lockwork only gets cleaned once a year or so.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    I'm wondering about the possible complications of blackpowder in lever rifles and other types with more "nooks and crannies" for the fouling to hide itself within
    An example: Rossi '92 - 45 Colt BP reloads - 100 avg rounds shot monthly for Cowboy Action ... Eezox, normal bore cleaning, lifter and bolt cleaned with a shop swab. Probably in excess of 15,000 down the bore. Been field stripped and cleaned twice. No rust, no broken parts and no hiccup malfunctions cleaning it as I do

    Revolvers cleaned in same manner as rifles with Eezox. Cartridge revolvers cleaned with Eezox, maybe 8,000 plus BP rounds - field stripped once. Cap & ball revolvers, about 7,000 rounds - put barrel and cylinders in ultrasonic cleaner after every match, shop swab for receiver and hand - Eezox squirt in the hammer & trigger assembly ... never been field stripped. The foul in the rifles & revolvers is primarily blowback
    Regards
    John

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    If you anneal your cases and use full loads, the only fouling will be in the bore. Both those rifles clean from the breech end so it's really not an issue. As for corrosion, Pyrodex is some kind of corrosive stuff. Clean once, clean again, and clean again next week and keep everything wet with oil. T7 isn't as bad but still I follow the same rules. Real BP is not a problem, it in itself isn't corrosive. But it will draw moisture which sure is corrosive. So either clean it or at least keep it wet with oil and you'll never have a problem. Like John Boy above, I use a Browning '92 every month in competition and have never had to detail strip it. I clean the bore, and keep the action wet with Ballistol. Never had a bit of problems with it. But I only use real BP, never those nasty substitutes. Marlin 1895 is the same way, I take the bolt out to clean the bore but never had to strip it down. BTW, where are you located that you can't get real BP? If you are in the USA and UPS comes to your location you can get real BP. If your handle means Baja California, that certainly would be a different matter but guns are tough to have there either...

    -Nobade

  8. #8
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    Gentlemen, thank you kindly. The information you've posted is exactly what I was looking for.

    My blackpowder guns are pretty limited right now; I have a Walker Colt (as sold by Colt themselves back in the '70s or '80s), a Shiloh '74 in .45-70, and a very nice M1884 Trapdoor rifle..... which I have yet to shoot. That will change shortly, once I cast some LEE 405 HB bullets next Monday at NVCurmudgeon's hacienda.

    My intention is to use Holy Black, none of them new-fangled substitutes. I have eight pounds or so of FFg on hand so should be good for a little while. (Also some 3f for the Walker.)

    Midway has Ballistol, both in liquid and aerosol.... which is better? Eezox doesn't appear in their catalog.

    Whenever I see one of the blackpowder lever guns, my heart rate seems to speed up.... as if I "need" more guns! However, I was wondering about cleaning complications, if any, and you have now put my questions to rest.
    Regards from BruceB in Nevada

    "The .30'06 is never a mistake." - Colonel Townsend Whelen

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    The liquid is great for wetting wiping patches, and is a lot cheaper. The spray is good for spraying into actions and other spaces. I use both, suppose you could put the liquid in a spray bottle and have the best of both?

    Mix it 10:1 water/oil and it works great for wiping the bore too. And the "unique" smell is so enduring.

    -Nobade

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use the ballistol mixed 20-1 with water I mix it and put in a trigger spray bottle, set on stream or close its good for wetting patches or spraying out areas. quick simple and affordable.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    If one is enamored with Ballistol, why not just go the hardware store and buy a can of mineral oil which is the primary ingredient in Ballistol
    Another test: Is Ballistol a Good Rust Preventative, Fact or Fiction
    http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/in...=9308.msg63319

    Eezox ... http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/pl-eezox.html
    Regards
    John

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    ......But it doesn't smell as interesting!

    -Nobade

  13. #13
    Boolit Mold
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    All good advice from everyone. BP is easier on the gun than subs and it's easier to clean. Eezox is great and I use it for smokeless plus the bores stay rust free for a long time. My 45-75 lever gun is simple to clean after shooting BP. I clean with Moose milk patches - 10:1 water to Ballistol. Timely cleaning after BP is important. Sooner after subs they rust steel quickly. If I put a gun up for a while, I patch the bore and wipe down with Eezox. You will like 405HB in that rifle with BP.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    If one is enamored with Ballistol, why not just go the hardware store and buy a can of mineral oil which is the primary ingredient in Ballistol
    Another test: Is Ballistol a Good Rust Preventative, Fact or Fiction
    http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/in...=9308.msg63319

    Eezox ... http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/pl-eezox.html
    Ballistol has an additive which allows it to blend with water. Mineral oil by itself will not blend with water. Have heard that tool cutting oil works quite well as a bp cleaner.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    Napa water soluble cutting oil works excellent for bp cleaning, when mixed 1 part oil to 7 parts water.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jim Shockey Gold F.F.F.G.

    Quote Originally Posted by bajaretired View Post
    I have been shooting my Marlin 1895 and Sharps replica for some time now using smokeless powders. I would like to try some blackpowder loads using Triple 7 and/or Pyrodex RS (blackpowder is impossible to get in my area). Can anyone give me some ideas on load data? I have three cast bullets I would like to use. A 500gr, 405gr and 300gr.
    I started using Jim Shockey Gold in my .40/65 with good results and I laodaed up about 50. About two months later I went to shoot them and they were all over the place. I went to load some more and the powder in the container was as hard as a rock. I pulled some bullets and sure enough the loaded ammo was also solidified. I contacted Shockey and apparently the powder has a tendency to do that with age. I had a hell of a time getting the compacted powder out of the cases, and now shoot Goex F.F.F.G without problem.
    Last edited by jednorris; 08-10-2014 at 04:31 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy appleseedgunsmith's Avatar
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    Black powder cleaner: works on real black or pyrodex
    25% windex w/ammonia
    25% murphys oil soap spray
    25% prestone antifreeze
    25% water

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Windex Multi-surface, w/Vinegar does BP clean'n the best.......
    Avoid ammonia!
    LG
    Hav'n you along-Is like lose'n 2 good men

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I strongly agree with Lumpy!

    Windex with ammonia, or any ammonia containing product may potentiate the rusting effects of BP or BP subs. BP fouling is basic and is best cleaned with neutral or very mildly acidic cleaners like dilute vinegar (Windex with Vinegar) which will tend to neutralize the fouling.

    The best single substance BP solvent available is water. A touch of vinegar is helpful. A water soluble oil (NAPA or Ballistol) doesn't hurt, but not so much it interferes with the solvent properties of water. Punch the tube with wet patches, followed by dry, followed by a water displacing oil if the bore is rough, followed by a decent oil. That's all that is required.

    Jerry Liles

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Toymaker's Avatar
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    Clean, then mask the wood by putting it in a plastic bag and seal it with tape. Then give the action a blast of carburetor cleaner. Whistle. Just in case I lubricate with TriFlo. Something about it will tie up the corrosive salts AND it provides a nice lubricating barrier. You'll find it in a bicycle shop as they use it to clean and lubricate chains. Good stuff.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check