Has anyone ever machined the bevel base off a Lee 6-cavity 452-200-SWC?

[C. Latch]

I currently only have one .45ACP mold. I like the mold (NOE 452-230-HP) but would like something lighter and easier to cast with (i.e. no HP provisions) and faster, for making plinking ammo.

It looks like the Lee 452-200-SWC would be perfect if it wasn't a bevel-based design. If I end up pushing this bullet hard, I don't want to deal with the leading that sometimes is associated with beveled bases. In light of that, how hard would it be - and who does such work - to machine the bevel off of a Lee 6-cavity mold, make new provisions for the sprue plate, and turn this mold into a ~180 (+/-) grain flat-base?

Would it be easier to just go with the similar (but shorter-nosed) Lee TL452-200-SWC? I think it has a flat base.

[Dusty Bannister]

I took the Lee 452-200-SWC and reamed the bevel out of the mold so it is a flat based mold. If you remove enough from the mold top to reduce that 200 grain bullet to a 180 grain bullet, you will have a very thin base band and a fairly short bearing surface. I do not think you are going to get to push it hard with a thin base band. Off to the shed to file down the base to see what a 180 grain bullet will look like. Dusty

[RobS]

Forum member Buckshot does this work. I created a homemade reamer that chucks into my drill press which I used to ream the bevel out of a 6 cavity 452-230 TC mold. A person could also fly cut the top of the mold off and reduce the base band and lighten up the weight. About any decent machine shop could probably do this. There are other forum members who are pretty crafty with tools that may be able to help you. I would post a thread for the service you are after and see who PM's you.

[Dusty Bannister]

I just do not think that there will be sufficient base band left if you try to remove enough of the mold to create a 180 grain casting. I realize that my alloy might be softer than yours, and I have already reamed the bevel out of my mold. My casting runs about 214.4 grains. I have gone from about .648 down to about .607 and the weight is still 194 grains. I have removed about half the base band. Time to move on to plan B. Good luck. Dusty

[country gent]

The bevel base can be reamed out with a little care and patience. A machine tool shop should have decimil reamers by the .001 increments. Order one up and use it slowly to remove the bevel base.

[jblee10]

I think you could shorten the base of that bullet and still have enough driving band. I use the 452-200-RF in a Springfield XD and it works great for me. Saves me some lead and still hits things hard.

[C. Latch]

So, could I have half the bevel machined off and the other half opened up, and leave enough base band to work?

[yondering]

Ream the bevel out (a 29/64" reamer works great), don't mill down the top of the mold. You won't gain anything useful by milling the base, and may cause yourself problems with a narrow driving band. This bullet with a plain base a great shooting 200gr target bullet, one of my favorites for an easy-casting and accurate .45 Auto bullet. It shoots really well this way.

The TL version doesn't shoot as well, and would be a poor second choice.

[C. Latch]

Ream the bevel out (a 29/64" reamer works great), don't mill down the top of the mold. You won't gain anything useful by milling the base, and may cause yourself problems with a narrow driving band. This bullet with a plain base a great shooting 200gr target bullet, one of my favorites for an easy-casting and accurate .45 Auto bullet. It shoots really well this way.

The TL version doesn't shoot as well, and would be a poor second choice.

One of my 1911s shoots as much as 5" high at 25 yards with 230+ bullets, depending on how fast I push them, and I'm concerned that a 200-grain mold might end up weighing 205 or more, maybe 215 if I had the bevel removed - certainly, a 215 would print lower than the 230, but I'm not sure it would be enough to justify the costs. At some point it would be cheaper to just get a different front sight (but night sights aren't cheap).

[fatelk]

A few years ago I used a fly cutter to mill the bevel off of a six cavity Lee 452-230-TC. It cast heavy to begin with, so the weight went from about 240 down to 230. At that time I had access to a mill, so it was pretty quick and easy. The sprue plate went back on just fine, no need to modify it as I recall.

If you take just the bevel off you should have plenty of driving band left, but I doubt the weight will go as low as 180. I would expect under 200 a little, maybe 190 depending on just what the mold casts to begin with.

Before I machined mine down I carefully measured and calculated the cavity volume I would be removing by the density of lead, and figured just how much the bullets should weigh. After I was done I weighed some and was impressed that I managed to do it right, as they came out exactly right.

[Motor]

If you go with the reamer method a piloted reamer would be best. The pilot will "pick up" the current diameter and guide the reamer.

If I was doing it I would locate and bore each cavity on a milling machine. I have done this to make the gas check diameter larger.

Motor

[C. Latch]

The TL version doesn't shoot as well, and would be a poor second choice.

I wonder why it doesn't shoot as well? It occurred to me that I might could trim a hair off that one, too, and accomplish the same thing, more or less.

[leadhead]

I have that same bullet in 357 with the bevel base and I cut the bevel out with a sharp
pocket knife. The aluminum is soft enough so you can do this pretty easy. Doesn't
mater if it's a little rough, as your going to size it anyhow.
Denny

[yondering]

One of my 1911s shoots as much as 5" high at 25 yards with 230+ bullets, depending on how fast I push them, and I'm concerned that a 200-grain mold might end up weighing 205 or more, maybe 215 if I had the bevel removed - certainly, a 215 would print lower than the 230, but I'm not sure it would be enough to justify the costs. At some point it would be cheaper to just get a different front sight (but night sights aren't cheap).

Sure seems like fixing the gun to shoot right makes more sense than loading special ammo just for that one. Just my opinion though.

If you go with the reamer method a piloted reamer would be best. The pilot will "pick up" the current diameter and guide the reamer.

If I was doing it I would locate and bore each cavity on a milling machine. I have done this to make the gas check diameter larger.

Motor

Not much room for a pilot on the reamer, unless it's sized to pilot on the lube groove. Have you actually done it that way?

I've reamed out a lot of bevel bases; a chucking reamer in a drill press is "self-aligning" enough that it gives really good results. No need to make it more difficult. Trying to indicate off the sharp bevel edges in a mill can be frustrating, at best, and no more accurate, in my experience.

I wonder why it doesn't shoot as well? It occurred to me that I might could trim a hair off that one, too, and accomplish the same thing, more or less.

The 200 TL SWC is a completely different design; different nose shape and length, different balance point, it's not just a TL version of the same bullet. IMO the TL grooves don't grip the rifling as well either.

[yondering]

A few years ago I used a fly cutter to mill the bevel off of a six cavity Lee 452-230-TC. It cast heavy to begin with, so the weight went from about 240 down to 230. At that time I had access to a mill, so it was pretty quick and easy. The sprue plate went back on just fine, no need to modify it as I recall.

My 230-TC molds cast heavy too. I do recommend milling the base off that design, rather than reaming. It has a pretty thick rear driving band anyway.

[C. Latch]

Alright, y'all win. I ordered a taller front sight (anyone need a .180" novak-cut tritium front?) which should drop me down to dead-on at 25 yards with most ammo. I also ordered a two-cavity 452-200-swc mold. I'll start with the 2-cavity; if it casts as easy as my Lee .358-158-swc it will make enough bullets to keep me occupied for a while.

[captaint]

leadhead mentioned using a pocket knife. He's right. The Lee molds are REALLY soft alum. I did my 38-55 2 cav mold with a sharp 3/8 drill bit. Took my time, but it did work. Any minor defects will get ironed out in the Star. I did this by hand, wrapping a rag around the bit and going slow...

[Boogieman]

I reamed the bevel out of my Lee 200 gr. swc . It now casts 210 gr. & shoots great out of my Colts. I couldn't see any difference in the POI

[williamwaco]

I did it with the Lee TL-358-158.SWC
Only took a few minutes.

I used a drill bit. I think it was 23/64.
Turned by hand with a T-handle.
Worked very well.

29/64 might do for the .45

[C. Latch]

I did it with the Lee TL-358-158.SWC
Only took a few minutes.

I used a drill bit. I think it was 23/64.
Turned by hand with a T-handle.
Worked very well.

29/64 might do for the .45

What are the chances that a 29/64 drill bit would work well enough, if I just put a t-handle on it and eyeballed it? Can I get it straight enough to clean up my errors in the sizing die?