WidenersInline FabricationLee PrecisionSnyders Jerky
RotoMetals2Titan ReloadingLoad DataRepackbox
Reloading Everything MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Need help on smelting

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Burnet TX
    Posts
    177

    Need help on smelting

    Ok I don't have an electric pot, but I do have a burner and pots to melt lead in and a 3 ft ladle from the 40's that hasn't been used. It holds about 3-4 lbs of lead. I was wondering about melting the lead with a propane burner. I have a fish fryer burner that I had a friend weld a sturdy base on. What's the best way to gauge temp on these and can you get too hot while smelting? I could use some help searching for related posts, as in what to search for....
    Thanks
    Stacy

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    michigan
    Posts
    408
    Buy a thermometer. The only time you might get too hot when smelting is if you would have some zinc in the mix.
    Pure lead melts around 650f, alloys will melt at a lower temp. Zinc will melt around 725-750f, so if you keep your melt below about 675f the chances of getting zinc in the mix are reduced.
    "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy".
    Ben Franklin

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    500MAG's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    1,230
    It all depends on what your melting. I have smelted without a thermometer but was smelting sorted items when I knew there was no zinc. Like Zymurgy said, the risk of zinc contamination can be reduced if you monitor your temp. Although, the best way to prevent it is to thoroughly sort what your smelting. There are theories that you burn off tin if it is too hot but that is debatable. There have been some experiment done that kind of debunks that.
    "If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
    Theodore Roosevelt

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy boho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Texas Hill Country
    Posts
    148
    Sort your material with side cutters. If you can dent/cut it its good to melt. When things start getting liquid, turn down the heat. Flux with wax while its melting and sawdust after you skim the dross and you will do great. A little more wax and scrape and stir before you start ladling into ingots will help with oxidation. Long sleeves, glasses, staying upwind and boots without laces required. Careful its addictive!
    Your career doesn't define the man you are, what kinda Dad you are does!

    If you want total security, go to prison. There you're fed, clothed, given medical care and so on. The only thing lacking... is freedom.
    Dwight D. Eisenhower

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    a.squibload's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,160
    Don't spend too much on a thermometer, I got one, it helps, but I hardly use it any more.
    You'll want one that reads up to 1000°F so your lead temp is near the middle somewhere.
    A long stem helps.
    I got the one on this page that's on sale for about $22:
    http://www.kck.com/tel-tru_grill_smo...ermometer.html

    I read on here somewhere that Tel-tru makes the ones sold with "shooting" name brands on 'em
    but the name brands cost more.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,625
    If you can reasonably assure there's no zinc in the pot then you really don't need to bother with temperature control during smelting. The heat is then only a problem because it accelerates oxidation which is easily mitigated by keeping a thick layer of saw dust on top of the melt.

  7. #7
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,088
    we have a search function in the upper right corner.
    not by your name just below that, it actually works now.
    don't get caught up in the esoterics and junk you are just melting lead.
    clean the gunk off the top, and then clean the alloy.
    when that's done pour some ingots.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    20
    Ive had lots of experience. I have never used a thermometer. You can tell when its too cold. It wont cast. If its too hot the lead will start to burn. You will get the hang of it with time. Just takes a little practice.
    Last edited by Lead Bandit; 10-28-2014 at 05:26 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oroville CA
    Posts
    235
    I have a 150,000 btu burner on my set up and do as has been mentioned above. Just let it melt and scrape off anything that floats when the pool turn molten. Have not had any problem yet. I started out by sorting everything and almost stopped casting because of it being such a pain. I constantly stir and remove clips when the pot is about 1/4 molten.
    The very young do not always do as they are told.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check