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Thread: Steel moulds

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Steel moulds

    I been at this boolit casting stuff about 5 years now and I'm about to cast with my first ever steel mould so here is the ? whats the difference between casting with aluminum verses steel any tricks I should know before I start?
    Terry

  2. #2
    Boolit Master dh2's Avatar
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    it takes longer to get a steel mold warmed to I cast with both it don't change much.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The steel mold will warm up slower but will hold heat better and may be a little more consistent when you find what it wants temp and cadence wise.I seem to find once warmed up and casting a iron.steel mold is a little more forgiving. What style bullet are you casting with the steel mold? How are you casting ladle or bottom pour pot? What alloy?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    If you can cast good with aluminum you'll cast fine with ferrous. You may need to slow down a little and run your alloy a little cooler. I think steel/iron is easier to cast with but that's what I learned on. With steel/iron I think it's easier to run two molds.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    The steel mold will warm up slower but will hold heat better and may be a little more consistent when you find what it wants temp and cadence wise.I seem to find once warmed up and casting a iron.steel mold is a little more forgiving. What style bullet are you casting with the steel mold? How are you casting ladle or bottom pour pot? What alloy?
    RCBS 358 in 158 round nose, I shoot IDPA and the round nose work real well with speed loaders, I currently use Lee 150 Gr. in 358 dia. but they don't seem to last long so I thought I would try (iron/steel which ever is the correct term) to see if they last longer
    Terry

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    They're both correct. Some are ductile iron some are steel.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have a steel 4 cavity lyman 160 grn wadcutter mold tha was made in the 60s and is still casting fine. I dont use it much now but It will be passeddown when Im gone. Like any piece of precission equipment how you care for it is important. After a casting session lightly coat it with a rust preventitive and store in a dry place. Some seal in ziplock bags some use ammo cans and desicants. Be consistant in what you do and Dont hammer beat on the mold handles with hard objects, keep it protected, And use it . It will last several lifetimes if cared for.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    I would preheat the mold on a hotplate to get it to casting temperature. That way there will be less rejects. Also if casting too quickly and the mold gets too hot it takes more time to cool down. I like steel opposed to alum. or brass. The disadvantage is weight especially with large molds.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    So you lubricate after every use and is kroil still the thing to use?
    Terry

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv109323 View Post
    I would preheat the mold on a hotplate to get it to casting temperature. That way there will be less rejects. Also if casting too quickly and the mold gets too hot it takes more time to cool down. I like steel opposed to alum. or brass. The disadvantage is weight especially with large molds.
    This is exactly what the forum wisdom told me about my steel Cramer trio in 358. I couldn't get it to stop wrinklimg until I warmed it gradually over my lead pot as the pot heated up.

    Hot plate will be my next option and likely needed for the Lyman 308 mold I now have.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Kroil is alright for a drop out release agent but, it's not always necessary. You'll find out the iron molds like heat, and lubrication isn't as crucial as on aluminum molds. They cast tough.
    In all, the .41 Magnum would be one of my top choices for an all-around handgun if I were allowed to have only one. - Bart Skelton

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check