Another gentleman had a thread on here in regards to loading 45 Colt Long with BP - I didn't want to hi-jack his thread to ask these questions.
I have shot BP for 50 years and a lot of cap and ball pistol ('51 Navies). I reload 38 spl and 9mm but want to try some BP cartridges in my New Vaquero and I'm hoping to get a 1872 open top as soon as I can find one.
I have 2F and 3F Goex. I plan on sorting 100 casings out with the same headstamp (I may break in to my box of 500 new Starline casings I've been hiding on the back of the shelf) and dedicate them to BP only. I also have some 38 Colt Short and 38 Colt Long that I want to play with.
I cast my own - have molds for WC, SWC and sever RN. I plan on starting out with the 160 gr Round Nose.
I have read the article by Chuck Raithel which pertains to BP rifle cartridges - a great article! But, I have several questions after reading it. I know this isn't rocket science but I want to do it "right".
I understand how to figure the COAL and the seating depth of the particular boolit I'm going to use as well as the wad to come up with the case fill. I was hoping to find some of the vegetable wads but may have to make my own as T of the W is out of them for 38s.
My questions are:
1. I will figure out the case fill needed and then measure by volume. It's my understanding that I need to leave the powder level in the case about 1/16" high in order to get a compressed load. On pistol cartridges - such as the 38 - do you need to use a "drop tube" to fill the case or can you measure the powder and then fill the case through a regular powder funnel? If filled that way, do you gently jiggle the case to let the powder settle until you are 1/16" above the case fill line and then compress - or just fill through the funnel setting over the case mouth and then compress?
2. Is it necessary to use a "compression plug" on a pistol cartridge such as this or can you compress the load when seating the boolit? (After the card has been inserted over the powder.)
Also, if cartridges are loaded and compressed by bullet seating - is there any problem if loaded cartridges are moved - as in being in a cartridge box boolit down and in a car which hits bumps, etc. such as on the way to the range to shoot - or boolit down in a gun belt over a period of time being carried around such as hiking, etc.? Will the compressed load settle any further causing an air gap in the case? (I know - probably worrying too much!)
3. Lube - I understand the purpose of lube in regards to keeping fouling soft, etc. and also the use of a card to keep lube from migrating to the powder charge. On my cap & ball revolvers as well as rifles, muskets, etc., I have used a lube for years with great success that is made from one wax toilet ring and one pound of Crisco melted together. However, it is a "softer" lube. I do not have a lube machine so will have to either pan lube my boolits or finger lube the grooves prior to seating. My quandary is this. I'm in Michigan during the summer - can be hot and muggy and usually in southern Arizona during the winter - cooler in the mornings but then it can get up in the 80s and of course lots of sun.
The softer the lube, the easier it is to "run" when warm. I looked at Chuck Raithel formulas that he listed. If I "stiffen" my lube with additional beeswax so it is "firmer" - will this still take care of the fouling - enough so that say fifty rounds could be fired without having to swab and clean the barrel and possibly the chambers of a revolver as well as keeping the cylinder pin clean enough to prevent cylinder drag? Using my toilet ring wax/Crisco mix, I can easily load and shoot upwards of a dozen or more cylinders fully loaded without a problem. Does anyone know what was used originally for lube on the early BP pistol cartridges such as the 45 Colt, etc. that would have been exposed to all kinds of temperatures during shipment to different parts of the country?
4. Which is a better choice for the 38s - 2F or 3F. I have often used 2F in my C & B revolvers when I've been short or out of 3F and all seems to work just fine. What differences would occur between the two different granulations in regards to velocity, performance, accuracy, etc. Anything that great?
I apologize for the length of this. I have been searching for more detailed information in regards to BP pistol cartridge loading but most of what is out there that I'm running across is in regards to rifle cartridges. As I said, I'm sure I'm probably "over thinking" this but I want to do it right and safely - I'm too old to screw up and loose any body parts!
It would be great if someone who is experienced could do a "sticky" on the basics of loading BP pistol cartridges - the steps and what to do as far as compressed loads and the basic items you need (as opposed to loading BP rifle cartridges), the steps, etc. so "noobs" to BP pistol cartridge loading wouldn't be asking the same questions all the time. LOL
Thanks for any help and information on this that you experienced folks can offer. It's greatly appreciated!