What to use for sealant with checks????

[douglasskid]

I hear of various sealants being used to hold checks in place. What do you use and how is it applied?
THANKS
Ed

[dg31872]

Hornady checks crimp in place, and properly done, need no "sealant".

[BruceB]

Hornady checks *should* crimp in place, but I've seen some combinations of checks and moulds where the gaschecks did not attach securely.

On occasion, I've used red Loc-Tite to fasten the checks securely.

A small drop of the stuff was placed inside each gascheck, and then distributed around the circumference with a toothpick, finishing nail, or other small-diameter "tool".

Since the Loc-Tite only hardens in the ABSENCE of air, there's no hurry in doing this.

I then sized-and-lubed normally, and placed the finished bullets aside to set-up overnight.

I've no idea whether or not this was 100% successful or not, but groups were good and the chopping-up of my chrono screens due to detaching gaschecks stopped. Therefore, I considered the practice a success.

It's certainly a bit of a pain, but for limited applications it does seem to work. (I would NOT do this for hundreds upon hundreds of bullets!)

[357maximum]

If you have a loose fitting check and are using hornady or gator checks...you have a mould issue.....lap out the gc shank area on the mould a touch and WALLAA. Glue/Gloo should not be required on a boolit period.

[Alex Hamilton]

I am using Hornady, Gator and Aluminium gas checks and do not use any sealant to keep them on. After many years of use of Hornady and Gator checks, I cannot find any difference in accuracy. Aluminium checks are relatively recent and after about 60 rounds in 3 calibres accuracy is as good as the other two and I have not detected that any checks have come off. And that is on bullets cast in Lyman, Lee and NEI moulds.

Alex in UK.

[nekshot]

Take Lee's alox and put it in a small pill type bottle with top off until it gets real thick then put lid on. When you get a situation the gc's are loose just dip base of boolit into tacky alox and apply chek. Works for me. Amazing how often I will take a loaded round that hase a snug nose for bore and dip the exposed boolit into the tacky stuf, might not help the boolit but it sure helps me think it helps!

[mrbill2]

Check out a Lee sizing die. Sizes the bullet and crimps on the gas check all in one operation.

[C. Latch]

This interests me, as I bought some 'plain based' gas checks and they don't seem to want to stick very well.

[lavenatti]

I like to gas check prior to powder coating. Since that means I need to size twice I now do the following:
Dip the base of the boolit in PC.
Slip gas check on.
Powder coat and bake.
Size.
The PC acts like hot melt glue holding the uncrimped check in place until sized and I only need to size once.

[lxk308]

I use Loctite Super Glue Gel Control to hold my loose gas checks in place. I have two molds, one a Lee and the other a NEI, that the gas checks just slip on and off the cast bullets, so I need to 'glue' the GCs on. I tried the red Loctite but the Super Glue Gel works better for me. For some reason the GCs just will not crimp on these cast bullets.

[MT Chambers]

In a lot of cases I believe it is a good test of the mold makers accuracy, the gas checks should press on and stay on until crimped in place.

[Ben]

If the gas check shank is cut correctly in the mold by the mold maker ( doesn't always happen ) and you're using the correct alloy, the gas check should be a " click fit " as you push the gas check onto the shank. Pushing the bullet through the sizing die will crimp the g/c onto the shank for a good snug , tight fit.

If all of the above is correct, there will be no need for a sealant.

In my opinion, having to use glue, sealants, etc is an indication that the g/c shank is too small or the thickness of the metal used to make the g/c is too small or a combination of both.

Ben

[Beagle333]

But if everything isn't perfect and it doesn't fit.... I use some Loctite. Just a little spot of it in the center of each check before seating will hold em on there and keep them there. I would describe the "spot" of it to be about the size of 1/4 of a regular copper BB. I just line up a row of checks and hold them down with a toothpick (my fingers are too big for this) as I move along and put the "dot" in each one, then when I get about 12-15 of them ready, I seat the checks and do another 12-15.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/6/3...Conditions.htm (About 4 bucks at WalMart) I don't know how many checks one tube will do.... because I haven't managed to use one up yet! I only have one mold that casts a small shank, even though I do use it on all my plain base soda can checks.... just as a precaution.

[Forrest r]

Different molds will have different sized gc bases along with simply using a different alloy in the same mold will produce different sized gc bases. I redesigned my gc makers to make a wider mouthed gc along with making my own die (.307/have factory .308/.311) for the lyman 450 to seat crimp on the gc's. With the wide mouthed gc there is no more snapping/fighting with or extra step seating the gc all the way on the boolit. The gc simply lays in the lyman sizing die & the boolit is set on top of it & then seated/crimped on. The end result is a tightly crimped on gc that is centered & is seated all the way on the boolit base every time.

After the gc is seated on the boolit the boolit is then sized/lubed to the desired dia. Most of the gc seating/crimping I do is with the .307 & .308 dies and the I lube/size the boolit in the .311 die.

[Iowa Fox]

If you have a loose fitting check and are using hornady or gator checks...you have a mould issue.....lap out the gc shank area on the mould a touch and WALLAA. Glue/Gloo should not be required on a boolit period.

Yep! Mike said it for me.

The tail of a bullet, cast or jacketed is where the accuracy starts.