okay, i'll tell what i got...tell me what i need!

[mozeppa]

i'm a closet inventor that has built a great not so little machine (300 pounds) ..........and its for reloading.

the mechanics work perfectly.....just...one ...glitch.

the one horse farm rated 115 volt motor gets hot after 1 to 2 hours of use and the motor just quits!.......arg!

its thermally protected ....so it does that. hmmmpf!


what i need is a motor that meets these criteria:

1 horse
115 volt

and can run continuously until hell either takes over or freezes solid!

money is no object ...........up to 10 dollars !.............. LOL
2 to 3 hundred new ....any lines on used?

really can someone help me as to what to ask for?

[Zymurgy50]

Put a fan so it is blowing cooler air over the motor. Increase ventilation to help cool the surroundings.

What you are looking for is a continuous duty motor. What we need to know is frame size, shaft diameter, rpm speed, and direction of rotation.

[Jeff H]

You either need a bigger motor or one rated for "continuous duty." If you measure the current the motor draws while running at full load and compare it to what is on the nameplate you can see if you're working it too hard. If you're just working it a tad more than one horse's worth, you could possibly get away with an increased service factor (listed on the name plate).

The thermal protection is doing it's job - keeping the motor from burning up from being worked too hard. Each time you trip it you could have already done some damage to the insulation on the windings. Doing this repeatedly could ruin the motor.

Check your current at full-load and see if you're drawing more than the motor is rated for.

[wv109323]

First you need to make sure your power supply(voltage) is up to par. If you are running a 1 HP motor in an out building feed from your house on the end of an extension cord you are going to have problems.Measure your voltage at the outlet where the motor is while it is under load. You should have 120 volts under load. Is the motor hot when the thermal protection trips it off? Does it trip off more easily the second or third time? If a 120 Volt motor drops to 110 volts it produces 81% of its torque.
If the motor trips with thermal protection it will do nothing until the thermal protection cools off. It will not make any noise when thermally tripped. I don't know what you mean by hmmmpf.
If your voltage supply is proper you need to bump up the horsepower rating, either 1 1/2 or 2 HP.
Also motor HP rating is VooDoo science. Is it 1 HP continuous or peak 1 HP? Many manufacturers rate the HP at peak, meaning there is no way the motor can produce that HP for more than about a 20% duty cycle.
It sounds like you are under voltage or need a larger motor for the work the motor is preforming.

[mozeppa]

not over working it.
hardly any labor to it really.
there is no difference in speed on this when running a loaded machine ...or running it empty.


what i have.
1 horse
5/8 shaft
turns counter clockwise from the motor rear.
115 volts (my electric is good....not much else runs off this service panel.)

1725 rpm output .....operates a 100 to 1 worm drive....attached by a love joy connector.

frame size = 56

so a continuous duty motor will do it?

i've worked in factories where machinery ran full shifts ....some machines with motors smaller than mine in every way...and working harder torque wise.





p.s. the
"hrrrmpf" is my displeasure of it tripping when more work needs to be done.

[guncheese]

get a motor with the highest service factor you can find
it labled as "SF" on the name plate
http://www.fele.com/franklin-aid/jus...ce-factor.aspx

[Jeff H]

not over working it.
hardly any labor to it really.

1 horse
5/8 shaft
turns counter clockwise from the motor rear.
115 volts (my electric is good....not much else runs off this service panel.)

1725 rpm output .....operates a 100 to 1 worm drive....attached by a love joy connector.

frame size = 56

so a continuous duty motor will do it?

Maybe, but what kind of current are you drawing? Without checking the current draw, you won't know for sure if it's overworked. As wv109323 said, you may need to make it bigger. Even if 1 HP is enough (and 1 HP is a lot with that kind of reduction), loose electrical connections or any kind of mechanical misalignment or binding could also be an issue. If you don't have a clamp-on ammeter, see if you can borrow one or get someone who owns one to check it for you. Don't rule anything out and don't go out and buy a new motor until you are certain you have zeroed in on the actual problem. You could uncouple the motor and run it to see if it trips too. If it's an old, used motor, no telling what kind of life it's had.

Not looking to start a fight, but in my experience, overloads tripping are rarely an electrical problem. 99% of the time (probably more) it's a "mechanical problem," meaning that something is bound up or the drive is requiring more HP than the motor can provide.

It could be the duty rating of the motor, but check the current to see how hard it's really working the motor.

[GLL]

Just out of curiosity what brand is your motor and its service factor?
Is it running on a dedicated circuit? if it is a "real" continuous duty 1 1/2 HP motor it will not like to be on the same circuit as a heating element or another motor.
Is it totally enclosed?

I also suspect a possible low voltage situation.

Jerry

[chill45100]

Could the overheat be caused by an under loaded motor?
Granted the ampere draw needs to done of course.

[jonas302]

Well I would love to see the machine sounds pretty cool

[44man]

Chances are the motor does not have a fan inside. Made for just short use cycles. I salvaged many motors over the years and a few were not cooled and get hot as blazes just running free. They were used in dirty places and are more or less sealed.
Does it need 1 HP for what you are doing? Dryer motors might work if there is no strain.

[mozeppa]

nope no fan

it is a new "marathon" motor from tractor supply.

went to graingers they found me a motor that's suitable.

i'll unveil it when the bugs are all worked out.

[David2011]

FWIW, I recently had the bearings replaced in a 1 HP 1725 rpm motor. It draws 13 amps unloaded and about 15 loaded on the motor shop's test bench. The owner told me that was normal for a single phase 117 volt motor. Point being that an unloaded AC motor drew way more than I would have thought.

David

[Harter66]

I lived in a place that I was hard pressed to run a 10'' radial arm saw w/the factory #12 cord 2ft shorter than factory. The outlet was on #12, 14'' from the buss. I changed it to stranded #10 to get it to pull the start every time. It turned out that static I only had 225 volts to the meter and 110 at each side of the buss . When I started the saw it would spike(?)to just 87 volts. The electric oven pulled the buss down to 205. My meter was 528' from the T-former and the power co refused to add 1 closer for just 1 100 amp home service . The T-former was rated for 2 200amp services or 4 mobile homes or 3 households. The guy 1 pole the otherway had 100 amp home and 200 amp shop services. So I was stuck unless I wanted to buy the $2500 transformer myself. Not for a rental house .

[Ironduke]

your local Tractor Supply should have what you need. They stock various electric motors, pulleys, belts, gears etc for building various machines.

I note you have been delightfully vague about your invention. Good. An invention can't be patented, generally, if it is put out into public use. Keep your cards close until you're ready to get a patent.

[mikeym1a]

Have you considered using a 1 - 2 hp 220V motor? More expensive, yes, but, better, from my limited experience. mikey

[Virginia John]

Very interesting - a 300 lb reloading machine. I am anxious to see what you have come up with.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Very interesting - a 300 lb reloading machine. I am anxious to see what you have come up with.

Or possibly a "Super Size" case trimmer/deburring/case polisher that also makes coffee?Robert

[dave roelle]

If powder is involved you'll need a TEFC "explosion proof" motor !!!!!

Dave