I have a 100lb bar of lead. What is the best way to get it to smaller pieces that will fit into a pot. I have tried cutting and the only way I have so far is to use a hatchet and hammer and cut off small pieces. Thanks new here Gus
I have a 100lb bar of lead. What is the best way to get it to smaller pieces that will fit into a pot. I have tried cutting and the only way I have so far is to use a hatchet and hammer and cut off small pieces. Thanks new here Gus
That's the way I would do it, except I use a splitting wedge instead of a hatchet.
It's MADE to be hit with a hammer...
CM
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Never did that. Could you "cut" off a piece with a propane torch by melting a groove along or even around the "cut" line (place bar on something smooth so you can recover the melted part that flows out - foil would work) and then (to avoid having to melt it all the way through) placing the end of the bar on a brick or block and whacking it with a sledge to break it?
I read where linotype bars are hung with their end in the pot and the bar is lowered as needed to keep the pot full. Maybe one of those cheap ($7?) rope/pulley (block and tackle) gizmos, from WalMart, that hunters use to hoist big game up for gutting and skinning would be adjustable enough so not be dangerous?
Sawsall comes to mind but blade would probably clog up pretty quick and it just sounds like wasted lead from the cuttings.
Good luck.
ETA: I like MC's wood splitting Wedge & Sledge idea. Almost anyone who cuts firewood would loan you that gear for the few minutes it would take. Be sure to have the lead sitting on a solid surface - stump or wood-on-concrete. A "maul" axe (like a 6# wedge, except with a handle like a sledge hammer) is even better if you also have a sledge and a helper - one guy holds the maul in place by its handle and the other guy whacks it with the sledge. Less trouble than trying to hold a wedge in your hand while wacking it with a big hammer in the other...
Last edited by American; 01-18-2008 at 01:26 PM.
I use my small Makita demolition hammer with a wide chisel point. Cuts like butter !
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
Welcome to the site Gus! Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
I have used a circular saw to cut lead pipe up and I have used a torch to melt it apart, a sawsall is another powered option. Depending on how thick it is I think that the hatchet and hammer method sounds just as good to me. I have heard of some guys using a chainsaw to break down large pieces of lead for the pot. Whatever you use remember to protect yourself from any dust that might be generated. Good luck!
I have used coarse toothed saws to cut lead.
Maybe a sawzall with wood blade.
Don't use a hacksaw blade, the teeth are too close and clog with lead quickly.
Good luck
Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.
I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.
Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.
Oh yeah! Good idea! Picked up a small pneumatic hammer with 9 chisel bits from Harbor Freight a year ago for $9.99 and that thing has been used for a dozen odd jobs since then cutting concrete, bricks, busting up cast iron sewer pipe, chipping off welding slag - I can see where it would work great for cutting lead with the wide blade.
Your Makita sounds a little bigger but same idea...
The only time I have had to cut lead blocks into smaller pieces I put a used coarse-tooth wood cutting blade on my bandsaw, turned speed down to lowest setting, and used a little cutting oil (don't remember brand) to keep lead chips from clogging teeth. Seemed to work fine, but I bet pneumatic hammer w/blade would work fine too. I don't have one of those (yet!)
Table saw works good.Be sure to wear long sleves, and eye wear.Course tooth blade.
God is good all the time
I use a small saber saw with a wood blade. Takes a little while but it works.
I cut up a 80 lb piece of sailboat keel with a propane torch on a concrete floor.
I put the block of lead in a vice and use a Skil saw with a carbide blade, gloves and safety glasses. It's about like cutting red oak, but it works.
I had a pure lead counter weight from a crane or hoe or something similar. Lead was about 18" square and 1 " thick. I went at it with a good cold chisel and a single jack and had it in the pot in less than 10 minutes in 6" squares. And no saw cuttings to sweep up after wards.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |