Problem with new Lyman mold

[Cloudpeak]

I just cast around 100 bullets with my new Lyman 452630 200 SWC 4 cavity mold. All four cavities drop the same diameter, .4515-.452 (something I'm not used to after using Lee 6 cavity molds). I have one sticky cavity where the bullet doesn't drop very well and will probably "spin a bullet" using toothpaste or Bon Ami or something similar on all the cavitys just to slick things up a bit. I did lightly smoke the cavities and it seemed to help the sticky cavity a bit.

I was pretty happy until the I opened the sprue plate and it froze 180 degrees from the closed position. I loosened the set screw on the pivot screw and can not get the pivot screw to turn so I can remove the sprue plate and clean up and see if I can get it working again. I tried hammering on a screwdriver that fit the pivot screw properly. Still "no go". I did use Bull Plate to lube the locating pins and sprue pivot. Perhaps that was the wrong thing to use?

Thanks,

Cloudpeak

[Ben]

Might require a trip back to Lyman.......?

Ben

[454PB]

Sometimes the lock washer on Lyman moulds will dig into the sprue cutter and cause symptoms like this. If the pivot screw turns at all, it can act as a ratchet and cause the screw to tighten with each cycle until it binds on the lockwasher. You may be able to get it removed with a big screw driver, mould held in a vice, and lots of downwards pressure while you torque the screw. I don't think the Bullplate lube had anything to do with it.

[Buckshot]

................Opening the sprueplate revolves it the same direction as you'd turn the pivit screw to remove it. Applying turning pressure to the screw AND trying to continue turning the sprueplate might just cause it to work. BTW, I replace ALL my Lyman mould's sprueplate bolt lock washer with a flat brass washer and a wave washer.

.............Buckshot

[Cloudpeak]

Well, I think I'm ready to give it another shot. (heh, heh, gun humor).

With the mold cold, I was able to tap the sprue cutter counter clockwise with a wood handle. The pivot screw then easily removed. There was no problem with the split washer digging in, the problem was between the mold block and the sprue cutter. I now have a circular ring on the bottom of the cutter. There must have been a small burr between the two from the factory. I polished everything smooth and put the mold back together and am ready to give it another try.

I think perhaps the sprue cutter was too tight right out of the box. I plan on adjusting it so it pivots fairly easily when the mold is up to temp, i.e. pretty much falls free when not cutting sprue. Does this sound right?

Thanks, Cloudpeak

[floodgate]

One the older moulds with the split lockwasher, Lyman originally chamfered the sharp points of the washer, but for several years, before going to the present Belleville (cupped) washer, they omitted this step. When I find a mould with the later split washer, I take the washer and give a few swipes with a diamond hone or needle file to "break" the sharp edges, and then clean up any scratches or gouges on the mould top or underside of the plate.

floodgate

[Cloudpeak]

This Lyman mold cast good bullets. I did 500 bullets and sized them today. This mold drops such uniform bullets (pretty much at .452") that I think I can shoot these without sizing. I always sized my 45s out of my Lee molds because of the wide spread in diameters. The trip through the Lee sizer with the Lyman bullets barely touches the bands and requires little to no pressure to feed them through.

Next step, load and shoot. Just looking at the bullet, I'm sure it will feed well just like the Penns bullets I shoot (when I'm not shooting Lee bullets which fail to feed about once every 8-10 mags.

Sprue cutter problem is solved.

Cloudpeak