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Thread: Prep for new Lee mold

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
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    559
    NRA 50/50 on all the pivot points while hot. Some Lee molds I have only smoked once and never looked back. It doesn't take much or you will end up with lube running into your cavitites. Others, I have needed to smoke with a butane lighter every once-in-awhile. I have tried the Franklin mold release tool. It works well but it is too easy to put on heavy. I only use it on my ingot molds when they want to stick.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    1,379
    Follow the directions on the Lee video and you will not have any problems.

    http://leeprecision.com/help-videos.html

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYpSw95R5s0#t=45


  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    500MAG's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    South Florida
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    I tried to smoke my first Mould 30 years ago but couldn't get it lit. I just give them a good soapy scrubbing and heat it up and cool it once or twice.
    "If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
    Theodore Roosevelt

  4. #24
    Boolit Master



    Echo's Avatar
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    May 2008
    Location
    Tucson AZ
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    I believe the instructions w/BullPlate suggest using a Q-Tip - unscrew the cap of the bottle and dip the Q-Tip in the puddle in the cap, use it to coat the top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate, then use the dry end to mop up any excess. Re-dip, and sparingly lube the sprue pivot pin, allowing it to wick down - but DON'T USE TOO MUCH!
    And that's the way I do it...
    Echo
    USAF Ret
    DPS, 2600
    NRA Benefactor
    O&U
    One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Ohio- Painesville and Cleveland and Port Clinton.
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    2,297
    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Just go to WalMart and get some 2 cycle engine oil (the blue stuff). Built for high temps and works.

    Lube the pins, joints, and a tiny bit on the sprue plate. Beeswax works very well. I have used it for a long time. I smoke ALL molds with a beeswax candle. I have never seen any problems with getting a little wax or oil in the cavities! Way over hyped. Spend your time casting rather than scrubbing and cleaning and cleaning and scurbbing your molds.

    bangerjim
    If you go that route, make sure to get the SYNTHETIC oil. It's strongly believed that it is one of the main ingredients in the bull plate lube mentioned. Conventional oil will smoke and burn off and leave a nasty residue.

    As to using 'wax', Lee recommends a little dab of alox bullet lube. For a long time this is what I used. It DOES build up a residue over time, so I eventually abandoned it.

    Smoking... some molds like it, some don't. Just have to try. I would degrease, heat up the mold, and cast. If you get good fillout and no issues releasing, no need to smoke. Otherwise, try it. You could also try "Leementing" which involves polishing the chamber of the mold with a bullet with a screw in the base, sprue plate open, dipped in a cleanser (think, Comet) and water mix, and slowly spinning... polishes out any micro burrs that hold up for good release.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check