Ok. I know what they are and what they contain, at least the Weaver Deluxe kit. My question is, I have never used one and am not aware of any problems, but others swear it's not a properly mounted scope without checking for parallel rings and/ or lapping.
Those of you who use one, what are you getting out of it? And what am I missing?
Not poking fun at anyone's methods, just tryin' to understand. Thanks!
Get some $5.00 line levels from Home Depot and plumb bob, or you can use feeler gauges if the bottom of the adjustment housing is flat.
I always lap my rings.
Its easier in the scope for remounting. It also settles a scope faster aiding in new rifle break in.
Does it do a lot? No but since I get a 1" OD bar I use the heck out if it.
Never done any of the lapping, feeler gauges, plumb bobs? Lots of my scopes have held zero for half a century. I use a regular dowel or hammer handle for the twist ins and don't torque the heads until the scope is sitting in the rings without binding. Burris makes the z rings for those who are constantly switching scopes.
Don't overthink this folks....
Lotta people die in bed: Dangerous place to be!
Right. That's why I'm asking. Seems like there might be something to it, but everyone seems to have the same reaction as me. Which is, it's akin to installing an oil pressure gauge in an old truck. Great. NOW you've given yourself something to worry about.
Being in this game for many years we all find our own way. I have many "things" in the bag of tricks, but there are two quick and easy ones for starters. Purchase a 12" stainless scale/ruler, lay on one mount in bottom of saddle and light check the other for square and height. Find some 1" aluminum dowel 1' in length, cut in center and have someone with a lathe put 30 to 45 degree points on them. Mount in rings and use center points for alignment check, can also be tightened in rings for turning in rings. If found to be really ugly, then shimming and lapping are the next steps. I have seen over the years it appears to be unequal tightening sequence and over torqueing of caps to be the most common damage. I use a feeler gauge and tighten snug both sides for equal and square, then 1/4 turn down X pattern to snug then torque to inch pound called for. Plug and play.
Yes. Simple and cheap tools that allow you to mount a scope and ensure everything is level. Use your imagination for what a plumb bob might be for.Originally Posted by Suo Gan
It's not over thinking it, it is simplifying the process.
Mounting a scope correctly is simple thing to do, but many approach it as if it is voodoo.
Its simple really.
1-Mount the bases with a 1/2 drop of blue Lok-Tite and snug plus a bit without a cranking the heck out of it/stripping screwheads.
2-Mount ring bottom halfs snug plus a bit same as above. Place a rag over the action leaving the scope ring surfact exposed.
3-Coat the ring surfaces with lapping compound and install lapping bar.
4-Install top rings tight enough to barely slide the lapping bar.
5-Lap rings a few times and check tightness of rings, if you can tighten a bit. Lap another 6-10 strokes and remove bar.
6-Wipe off lapping compound. You will see uneven bluing areas that were misalignment/machine tolerances.
7-Install scope to propper eye relief. Test it a few times my closing your eyes and bringing the rifle to bear. Open your eyes to make sure its good. Also bring it closer about .25" at that point to compensate for winter jackets. Lots of people forget that while setting scopes in the basement and T-shirts.
8-Brace the rifle in sandbags, rest, jackets or whatever to keep it in place.
9-Find the piece of action that is a good level point, I usually use a reciever scope base. My levels are small 3/4"X 3/8" things I bought at a Camp Trailer store for $0.75 each. They are small enough to fit under most scopes.
10-Level your scope with the second level on the elevation cap. Lock rings in place then recheck all levels. The Weaver bases that hook one one side and torque on the other often pull the scope out of level when torqued. You have to compensate for the twist.
That will hold a scope in place/level until the scope or rifle quits on you.
Ok, thanks for the detailed description. I'll likely try a lapping bar, but the $100 scope mounting kit is gonna stay in the store.
Ya a piece of 1" bar stock can be had for under $10
Cool people have 34mm scope tubes...
No they dont.......................
Yes they do. I seen it on youtube.
Well my Dad says your unamerican if you go metric!
Well I'll be colored red, white, and blue!
a 34 mm tube only gives more adjustment. The erector tube is usually the same size as a 1" scope.
Burris Signature Rings eliminate 100% of alignment issues.
As Gtet said, tightening issues will result in misalignment, unless you have a really good torque driver (not a FAT wrench).
To each his own. This is what I bought and includes the torque screwdriver and lapping bars, etc. Works for me.
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/831...ProductFinding
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