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Thread: 30-30: .3095 bore

  1. 05-30-2014, 10:53 PM #21
    beemer
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    Another old Marlin 30-30 here, a 336A made in 1949. I don't have my notes handy but it is a 4 groove and slugs close to .309. It will not chamber a .311 but does well with a .310. I considered turning the necks but haven't tried it yet. I also had trouble chambering a round because of the boolit nose engaging the rifling, reaming the rifling slightly at the throat cured that.

    Dave
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  2. 05-31-2014, 08:33 AM #22
    BCB
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonp View Post
    I just slugged my barrel with a .358 boolit. I lubed the barrel with kroil and rubbed a little sizing wax on the boolit and it went through with no problem. The problem is the barrel came out .3095. This would indicate a .311 boolit to me.

    This seems a little large for a 30-30 but it is an old Sears Ted Williams so i'm sure is well used. The molds I'm finding for the 30-30 are .309. I've read a couple of threads on the 30-30 including a recent one but am wondering if .3095-.310 is common for a 30-30 and I am looking for a mold suggestion in .311 for this levergun. I found some Accurate molds that are .311 but am not sure about this. I want this for target right now and would like to stay around 150-160gr
    Wow, I know you said you didn't gave a problem getting the .358 boolit through the barrel, but how did you push it throught...

    I've slugged a couple of barrels and I used a boolit that was designed for the particular caliber I was slugging and I had to use some force--even light taps with a hammer...

    BCB
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  3. 05-31-2014, 09:24 PM #23
    jonp
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCB View Post
    Wow, I know you said you didn't gave a problem getting the .358 boolit through the barrel, but how did you push it throught...

    I've slugged a couple of barrels and I used a boolit that was designed for the particular caliber I was slugging and I had to use some force--even light taps with a hammer...

    BCB
    I used a lead wadcutter. Oiled the barrel with kroil, coated the boolit with sizing wax and pounded it in with a brass hammer then a brass punch and finally through with a rod that has a gascheck stuck on the end with grease. It went easier than I thought it would.
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  4. 06-02-2014, 09:04 PM #24
    9.3X62AL
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    That was highly-motivated. I am less so--I pour some pure lead 8mm bullets for slugging duties in my 30/31 caliber barrels, and still oil the bores well and give the slugs a dip in axle grease prior to starting. Most of my slugging is shallow, to determine throat diameter primarily.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
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  5. 06-03-2014, 01:06 PM #25
    leadman
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    You may want to use a pure lead slug to check the bore of your barrel. COWW has enough springback to change the reading.
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  6. 01-16-2019, 10:51 AM #26
    Sig556r
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    Quote Originally Posted by Screwbolts View Post
    Another for the NOE 311-165 FN RD. Mine drop at .3115 with my WW alloy.

    Ken
    +1 above, mine drop 170ish
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check