Is the "slide stop plunger" indexing into the slide stop? This should keep the slide stop from coming out.
Jack
Replaced it.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Take a good look at the plunger tube, plunger, spring, and the area where the plunger contacts the slide stop. To get the plungers/spring out you have to remove the safety, but it's easy. Make sure there is plenty of free movement of the plunger in the tube. Also make sure the tube is securely staked to the frame by trying to rock and wiggle it with your fingers.
The only time that happened to me it was my fault. I just didn't get it seated completely.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
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Is that a Ruger? If so (if yours is like mine) Ruger did us a favor and made the plunger tube as part of the frame. All one piece and will never come loose.
If the tube is firmly attached (or integral to the frame) and the plunger and spring have free travel, another thing you can do is drill a small divot in the back of the slide stop where the plunger bears. Make sure the divot is beveled top and bottom to ease normal movement.
Good luck.
David
Last edited by dsbock; 05-29-2014 at 08:05 AM. Reason: Format correction
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I'm looking for a shooter grade Smith & Wesson Victory model in .38 Special.
I believe the detent on the slide stop is not deep enough. The plunger is slipping out of the detent in recoil. A starter drill or a dremel tool with a small cone shaped grinding bit will do to deepen it slightly. You don't need much, just a little bit, so be careful.
Check your grip. My guess is that you're pushing on it from the off side. Pretty common.
Check your grip. My guess is that you're pushing on it from the off side. Pretty common.
I agree, check this first before you start doing irreversible things, and yes it is common,
( good answer and post )
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Let me answer a few questions:
It is a Kimber
I looked at my grip, I rest my finger on the opposite part of the slide stop when pulling from the holster and when finishing shooting. This is my mental queue that I am "Off Trigger". So I don't think I'm hitting it when shooting.
There is no divot in the stop itself. The plunger moves freely, but may be too easy. I do not think the plunger tube is integral, but it is tight. Looks like it is held in with Allen screws from the inside.
If I can get into it, I may temporarily lengthen the spring and see if that works. If it does, I can order a replacement. I will let you know how this works.
I'm a Happy Clinger.
If there is no divot in the slide stop, there should be. The plunger fits into this divot and holds in place. Call Kimber about the no divot situation. My Star model PS , AMT Hardballer and Colt Gold Cup all have divots in the stop for the plunger to fit into and have never moved away from the frame.
Gary
No. A divot is not needed for the slide stop to stay in place. The slide stop is held in place by the slide rail. All the plunger does is provide tension so that the slide stop doesn't flop around and prematurely engage.
There's only place in the slide that is cut out so that the slide stop can come out. The ONLY way it can come out is by putting pressure on the off-side end of the slide-stop pin.
Edited: I just realized that there is another way - ammo. It is possible to have a double whammy of a bad slide stop where the rail lip is broken or worn down and a bullet profile and magazine that pushes on the slide stop all the time.
Last edited by dla; 06-05-2014 at 09:13 PM.
I don't know what causes it but I had it happen on a fairly new Springfield Loaded stainless. The easy fix for me was to send it back to Springfield under warranty--on their dime. You may want to contact Kimber, I would bet they are as good as Springfield on repairs.
OK, I finally was able do some shooting this weekend....
I had talked to a guy at a local gun store who is a 1911 fan. together we took a couple of new Kimbers apart and looked at how the slide stop works when it is brand new. I then went home and compared what I had just seen to mine. My spring that pushes the pin into the back of the slide stop is weak. I took it out and stretched it out a little. (I know this is NOT a permanent fix, but it let me test if spring tension alone was the problem.)
In short, the shooting session went just fine. No issues. I plan to replace the spring and move on. (The gun is 14 years old, and this is the first replacement part, so I am happy.
Thank you for your input!
I'm a Happy Clinger.
Not a bad mod to grind the off side of the slide stop a bit and add the dimple to the face that
the plunger touches. Both are never harmful and potentially beneficial little improvements.
Cutting down the protrusion to .025 and flat will cause no problems, and can make a difference.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
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BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |