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Thread: HI-TEK do's and don'ts

  1. #121
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by landers View Post
    I have a few question about curing Hi-tek super coat powder,
    1. after letting them air dry for a while to let the acetone completely evaporate can I place them in the oven as it heats up to 400 to ensure they are dry before curing or will this cause any undesirable side effects or is it better to wait for the oven to be totally heated before I put the bullets in?

    2. I found that when coating hollow point bullets it is very difficult to get the color into the hollow point, will there be any adverse effects if I increase the amount of acetone considerably to allow the Hi-tek to better flow into the hollow point? In order to get coverage into the hollow point I had to increase the mount of acetone to the mix, I then increased the amount of mix going on to the bullets to get the same amount of Hi-tek onto the bullets, since the Hi-tek powder is essentially reduced from the original recipe . I basically am applying the same amount of coating just having to tumble a little longer to allow the extra acetone to evaporate. The bullets are getting nice light coats including the inside of the hollow point.

    Thanks
    Landers
    What you are doing is just fine.
    Diluting coating simply allows you to coat into all spaces with a layer of coating without need for more powder. When excess Acetone evaporates, it leaves a thin coating which will dry more quickly.
    Once thoroughly dry, then bake and repeat with the diluted mixture.
    In most instances, any surface that does not come into contact with Barrel, really does not need coating. Coating hollow point inside hole is OK, but may be of no benefit.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by ioon44 View Post
    I have been letting my Hi-Tek boolits with Candy Apple Red dry in the sun for 4 hours at 130 deg F and baking them the next day in a 400deg F preheated convection oven for 12 min.
    If you don't get the first coat dry they will not pass the smash test.
    Right on.
    Drying well is most important.
    First coat only needs to act like a stain/primer, even if it looks bad. This will dry much faster, and cook well and bond well.
    Once first coat is bonded, passes smash test, you can coat again.
    If first coat fails, no point in applying second coat, as it wont fix adhesion problem of first coat.

  3. #123
    Boolit Man
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    Great thanks for the help, I will post some results as as soon as i can get off to the range.

    Landers

  4. #124
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    Back to the top for new users with questions.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  5. #125
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    where is the best place to order this coating from
    I like 1911's and Wheel Guns , Wood Stocks and Blue Metal , Dislike Black on Black and Magazines on Rifles whats this country coming to.
    Amateur Radio Station -KB5SMG- since 1994 Call sign change as of 8-15-17 WB5MG *** My Station now consist of a new * Icom 7300 * along with a new * Ameritron AL-80B Amp * and various other goodies. * Alinco DX70T * HF radio in my truck I can Be emailed at rockinpmanager@gmail.com

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmrra View Post
    where is the best place to order this coating from

    If you are in Texas, most probable supplier is Donnie at Hi-Performance Coatings and he is a vendor member on this site contact site
    http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....-oz-container/

  7. #127
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    another question , should I get the powder of the liquid form
    and thanks for the answers
    I like 1911's and Wheel Guns , Wood Stocks and Blue Metal , Dislike Black on Black and Magazines on Rifles whats this country coming to.
    Amateur Radio Station -KB5SMG- since 1994 Call sign change as of 8-15-17 WB5MG *** My Station now consist of a new * Icom 7300 * along with a new * Ameritron AL-80B Amp * and various other goodies. * Alinco DX70T * HF radio in my truck I can Be emailed at rockinpmanager@gmail.com

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmrra View Post
    another question , should I get the powder of the liquid form
    and thanks for the answers
    The liquid and powders perform the same. Depending on freight and quantity, you need to check with Donnie prices for delivery for each.

  9. #129
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    will do , thanks for the info
    I like 1911's and Wheel Guns , Wood Stocks and Blue Metal , Dislike Black on Black and Magazines on Rifles whats this country coming to.
    Amateur Radio Station -KB5SMG- since 1994 Call sign change as of 8-15-17 WB5MG *** My Station now consist of a new * Icom 7300 * along with a new * Ameritron AL-80B Amp * and various other goodies. * Alinco DX70T * HF radio in my truck I can Be emailed at rockinpmanager@gmail.com

  10. #130
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    I have never used the liquid, but the powder is really easy to use. One level tablespoon (from a set of plastic spoons at WalMart, not from silverware) to about 55-60 ml of acetone will coat over 1500 230 grain .45's with two coats and have a little left over.

  11. #131
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    Been powdercoating for a long time, just ordered some HiTek powder to try this process. Read this whole thread and Ive seen no mention of using lube after coating/baking.

    Ive had great sucess with Smokes PC powder on an NOE .228" 72g rnd, but I lube with MML+ after baking. I get better more consistant results with PC and lubing in my 5.56 AR

    I assume once cured, HiTek could be lubed the same way if I chose to do so with No ill affects to the coating?
    Last edited by berksglh; 12-18-2016 at 10:56 PM.

  12. #132
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    do you mean lubing to size? or to shoot??
    HITEK make a sizing lube Aqua 5000 works great.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  13. #133
    Boolit Buddy berksglh's Avatar
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    I pan lube powdercoated rifle bullets. So for shooting.

    And when do you gas check? I assume after the first coat?

    Last edited by berksglh; 12-19-2016 at 08:24 PM.

  14. #134
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    I don't do rifle bullets.
    But lubing after coating seems to defeat the purpose of coating in my book....
    The coating IS the lube. At least HITEK coating is.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  15. #135
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    Anyone using hitek successfully with unknown alloy hardness?

  16. #136
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    Why? Whats wrong?

    Quote Originally Posted by marky123 View Post
    Anyone using hitek successfully with unknown alloy hardness?
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  17. #137
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    I'm still scratching it off with me fingernail,this is using clip on wheel weights.I presume the alloy is the last thing that would cause a coating to fail?
    Last edited by marky123; 12-20-2016 at 07:14 PM.

  18. #138
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    I have used Hi-Tek successfully on wheel weight and soft swaged bullets without issue.
    As long as surface contamination is not an issue, insufficient dry time is main cause of loss of adhesion.

    If your applying in a cold and/or damp climate preheating the bullets to room temp (70-75 F) can help as well.

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by marky123 View Post
    I'm still scratching it off with me fingernail,this is using clip on wheel weights.I presume the alloy is the last thing that would cause a coating to fail?
    When you are applying the coating and swirling, Do not swirl too long that the coat actually dries before dumping onto your drying tray. I found this will give adhesion problems. The bullets should be still wet/ sticky when they get dumped.
    Are you sure you don't have any KIWI Pee on the bullets??? Or Lanolin from all the sheep shagging...lol
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    When you are applying the coating and swirling, Do not swirl too long that the coat actually dries before dumping onto your drying tray. I found this will give adhesion problems. The bullets should be still wet/ sticky when they get dumped.
    Are you sure you don't have any KIWI Pee on the bullets??? Or Lanolin from all the sheep shagging...lol
    No, but If I use Fosters as a degreaser will that work?!?I'd rather drink Hi-tek...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check