RotoMetals2WidenersRepackboxTitan Reloading
Load DataInline FabricationLee PrecisionReloading Everything
MidSouth Shooters Supply Snyders Jerky
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Old H&G #73 mold?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,758
    Quote Originally Posted by sagamore-one View Post
    Fish.... send me your address and I'll send you a handful to try.
    Sagamore: Thank you for your kind offer, but I already have a 4 cavity #73. What I lack is the time to slug the bore of the 92 (it is an early Interarms gun), size the bullets to the bore, play with different lubes, play with different alloys, work up a load with 231 then jump to 296 in 357, and figure out just how hard I can drive them in 357 before it starts to lead.
    If you could send me some extra time I'd be happy to send my address.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master yondering's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    NW Washington State
    Posts
    1,519
    Quote Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS View Post
    Sagamore: Thank you for your kind offer, but I already have a 4 cavity #73. What I lack is the time to slug the bore of the 92 (it is an early Interarms gun), size the bullets to the bore, play with different lubes, play with different alloys, work up a load with 231 then jump to 296 in 357, and figure out just how hard I can drive them in 357 before it starts to lead.
    If you could send me some extra time I'd be happy to send my address.
    Aha, sounds like you need to try powder coating your bullets. You can forget about lube, size them big-ish (maybe .359-.360, whatever fits the chamber), use plain old wheel weight alloy, and push them as hard as you want with no worries about leading. Even in a 357 rifle, I don't think you'd have any need for gas checks. I'll send you some already powder coated if you want, just send me your address.

    BTW, noticed your sig line, have you mounted a suppressor on that '92? That's what I'm wanting a 38/357 lever gun for; I bought a Liberty Mystic, although I've got plenty of time to find a rifle while the paperwork is going through. Any idea how heavy a bullet your 92 will stabilize? I have several .358 rifle molds in the 250-280gr range for my Whelen, I'm thinking one of those loaded in 38 brass might make a hard hitting subsonic round, if I can find a lever gun to stabilize them.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,758
    Quote Originally Posted by yondering View Post
    Aha, sounds like you need to try powder coating your bullets. You can forget about lube, size them big-ish (maybe .359-.360, whatever fits the chamber), use plain old wheel weight alloy, and push them as hard as you want with no worries about leading. Even in a 357 rifle, I don't think you'd have any need for gas checks. I'll send you some already powder coated if you want, just send me your address.

    BTW, noticed your sig line, have you mounted a suppressor on that '92? That's what I'm wanting a 38/357 lever gun for; I bought a Liberty Mystic, although I've got plenty of time to find a rifle while the paperwork is going through. Any idea how heavy a bullet your 92 will stabilize? I have several .358 rifle molds in the 250-280gr range for my Whelen, I'm thinking one of those loaded in 38 brass might make a hard hitting subsonic round, if I can find a lever gun to stabilize them.
    Yonder: thanks for the offer. You have some pretty high claims for powder coated bullets. I have never used them.
    As of supressors, I only use them on the subguns. I also do NOT use cast lead in them. I so badly crudded up one of my cans wirth lead that the manufacturer replaced all the baffles rather than try to clean it.
    Don't use lead through the supressor. I don't care what anyone says - it builds up over time. The manufacturer of my can (Bowers) said "go ahead and shoot lead through it" so i did. 5,000 or more 147gr subsonic and 380 rounds later it was no longer quiet and I had a baffle strike. He changed his mind after seeing the crud in the can. He now recommends that you do NOT shoot lead through the can.
    I have some Lyman 215 gr and H&G 200 gr 358 bullets to try for heavy bullets. Again, the time is the missing ingredient.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master yondering's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    NW Washington State
    Posts
    1,519
    Yeah, lead definitely builds up in a suppressor. I've had my Gemtech Outback apart several times to clean it now, kind of a pain, but worthwhile. My 9mm can is user servicable, so I can take it apart to clean it. However, I don't expect much, if any, fouling buildup in that one, since I'll only be using powder coated bullets. (Honestly can't see a reason to use a bare lead lubed bullet ever again.) I'm hoping the Saeco #352 (250gr) will work in a lever gun with 38 brass, although I haven't loaded any to check OAL yet.
    Here's an example how powdercoating protects the bore (and suppressor) from lead. This was a Mihec 359-125 HP, with a shortened hollow point, at 1200 fps. As you can see, no exposed lead at all, until the hollow point opened up on impact:


  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Southern Utah Desert
    Posts
    485
    You just need to sell that 6-banger to me.

    For cheap.

    'Cause I'm a good guy, I would use it, and someone else could try the 4-banger I'm now using. Two kids left at home and a roof to put on...

    Love that boolit.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check