New cocking piece for '96 swedes

[PAT303]

I want to change the cocking piece on my swede to shorten the firing pin travel and speed up the locktime,I want a simple replacement cocking piece and spring with a safety but can only find cock on opening kits that need bolt mods,can anyone tell me if simple change out parts are available. Thanks Pat

[Dutchman]

What you want are the back end parts for a Carl Gustaf m/63 target rifle. The cocking piece, bolt sleeve and firing pin are the modified parts. The Carl Gustaf m/80 target rifle further reduced lock time by shortening this whole thing further beyond the CG63. What was gained? Not a whole lot.

There are no sources for the parts you want. You can't buy parts like these. You'll have to modify your own which means annealing, machining and re-heat treating. Having not done it before I'd suggest it's not something you'd want to do by yourself.

Trust me, any advantage you think you'll get from doing this isn't worth the trouble.

This rifle below has a CG63 bolt.

[lefty o]

without getting exotic or making a whole bunch of work out of it, just cut cocking tab off the back of the cocking piece, shorten the firing pin to match and polish it til your happy. wont shorten the travel, but will drop the weight a decent amount, quickening the lock time.

[EDG]

How many milliseconds is your current lock time?
How fast do you want it to be?

[PAT303]

I use the rifle for field rifle and 3P compitition,I also like the look of reworked mausers,Rigby's etc that have nice streamlined bolts. Pat

[Spector]

Dayton-Traistor told me that I could use one of their cock-on-open cocking pieces with their spring and modify it by removing cock-on-open tab so it would cock on closing. This should accomplish what you want to some degree at a reasonable cost with little work involved.........Mike

[Gleedaniel13]

Dayton-Traistor told me that I could use one of their cock-on-open cocking pieces with their spring and modify it by removing cock-on-open tab so it would cock on closing. This should accomplish what you want to some degree at a reasonable cost with little work involved.........Mike

I think this is a good news for you Mike. You have an advantage now of using their tools.

[W.R.Buchanan]

There is one other point which you guys should be aware of, so don't go off the deep end just yet.

That is,,, the relationship between the face of the sear and the notch on the top of the striker that the safety goes into.

If the distance between the sear face and the safety groove is not the same as it is on the stock striker then the gun will NOT have a safety unless you get a trigger that has a safety built in.

If you look at the two striker assemblies that Dutch pictured above it appears that the only major difference is that the strikers sear face has been moved to the rear about half the length of the of the part.

However if this was the only case then the safety notch would be no where close to being able to engage. If you move the sear face back the safety notch must be moved the same amount.

This is what you would see if you could look at the CG63 striker. It is not amodified M96 part,,, it is a completely different part, and like Dutch said, they aren't available. I have a very well connected Swedish Mauser guy in Sweden and he looks for these parts every day. They were all sold out several years ago when all the Swedes were being imported into the US. If you could find these parts and the person actually knew what he had you be looking at stupid money for them.

The Swede Target sights cost 5-10 times what they cost 5 years ago,,, If you can find one. They were $2-300 back then.

His point about trying to modifying the lock time is in fact not worth the time or expense of trying to mod the existing parts. I have looked at it for several years and I assure you he is giving you the strait poop. The reason those guns have such a long striker travel in the first place is to insure that they hit the primer hard enough to light it in super cold weather,,, Like in Sweden!

I have a Dayton-Traister trigger in my M96 and it is UNRELIABLE. When I installed it originally it would not capture the striker if the trigger was pulled with the safety on. Result being when you released the safety the gun would fire.

The problem was that the relationship between the mounting hole in the trigger housing and the sear was wrong. The fix for this given to me by them (DT), was to mill the face of the sear forward until the safety would pull the striker far enough back that the sear in the trigger group could reset. IE: moving the sear face forward. That indeed fixed that problem.

However the new problem is that when you operate the bolt smartly, the gun fires as you close the bolt meaning the sear is not capturing the striker. The thing works fine if you work the bolt slowly but these guns are not designed to be babied, they are in fact designed to be operated smartly, which is exactly what you have to do during Rapid Fire stages of any match.

The new fix for this problem will be a Timmney Trigger that works correctly right out of the box. The one I got for my Springfield took exactly 15 seconds to install and works perfectly. The $15 I saved on the DT trigger was lost 3 times over since it is scrap.

There is more to this than meets the eye and modifying any Mauser bolt will usually open a can of worms. There are too many relationships between the various parts that were engineered into those actions for battlefield safety and messing with them invariably makes something else not work.

May I suggest a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on Mausers. It was a very enlightening read for me and a great shop reference for anyone who want to fool with these guns.

Randy

[Yodogsandman]

I put a cock on opening kit in my M38 6.5 x 55 Swedish, a Timney Deluxe trigger with side safety and Wolfe Extra power spring on the firing pin. All this was in the mid 90's. Shoots great, never felt bad about the alterations at all. As I remember, you cut off about 1/2" or 5/8" from the back of firing pin reducing weight. With the extra power spring it seemed to speed up the lock time. My experience is only the "feel" of the lock time as I have no way to test it.

[Larry Gibson]

I also installed numerous cock on opening kits (used to be 2 makes) on M93/M95/M96 Mausers. I currently have one of each of my own. Not hard to do if you study a M70 bolt (what the conversions are modeled after), take your time and make sure the cam angles and surfaces mate up correctly. The Dayton-Traister triggers do need fitting especially on M96 and some M95 actions. Seems they are all made for M93 specs and a one size is supposed to fit all. The Timney Deluxe triggers are work well as mentioned. However, the milsurp trigger will also work with minimal fitting. The safety notch also has to be fitted/adjusted so it works or a new notch can also be cut in the new replacement cocking piece at the correct location.

Whether you like cock on opening or cock on closing is a subjective thing and I'd rather not get into another discussion as we all have our own choice. I prefer the cock on closing because the lock time is faster and the reduced weight/momentum of the lightened striker assembly jars the rifle less. Both contribute to increases accuracy capability when I use the rifles.

Pictured is my own M96 Swede scout with the cock on open conversion. The trigger is a Timney deluxe w/o the side safety. It also required fitting of the sear engagement surface on the cocking piece. The standard M96 issue safety is used and a new safety notch was easily cut into the top of the cocking piece. The lock time is very similar to any modern bolt action such as the M70, M77 or M700.

Larry Gibson

Attachment 103725

[copperlake]

Dayton-Traistor told me that I could use one of their cock-on-open cocking pieces with their spring and modify it by removing cock-on-open tab so it would cock on closing. This should accomplish what you want to some degree at a reasonable cost with little work involved.........Mike

This works, and is the best answer to the OP in terms of cost unless he considers his time to have no value. I've modified the cocking piece successfully by s-l-o-w-l-y grinding on a lathe to the best effect. What others have said about the safety notch is, of course, true. I'll probably never cycle the actions enough to see any problems with the potential removal of the case hardening. This is much the same as with what material is removed to do the 'cock on opening' surgery.

In terms of its utility or other value I'll leave that to the experts but for some reason, someone in Sweden figured it was worthwhile. I'll agree that to the average shmoe it would be meaningless. Lock time is lock time, otherwise, it wouldn't be named.