Got fed up with the Froglube pushers .

[Jesse Early]

I will speak for Frog Lube. It comes in a tub like a car wax. It has a mint smell. The stuff absorbs into the metal and does a great job. I use it on my AR, AK, 1911, and Enfield. Never treated my barrel with it but as a gun lube it is good to go.

[fastfire]

Frog lube,Used it on the AR15, gummed it up in cold weather tossed mine, snake oil!
But smells good though.

[jmort]

That is one of the advantages of Ballistol, cold weather performance. The Hickock45 video of him using Ballistol on his Glock shows how it should be done.

[swheeler]

]I wonder if those boolits just age-hardened in the couple of years [/COLOR]since you loaded them, or if the FL actually helped the lead dust from gas cutting just blow out without sticking.

Remember the PB Blocker stuff? It was supposed to prevent lead from sticking if you warmed the barrel and swabbed that stuff through it. Didn't work at all for me, but it was different stuff than FL for sure. There may be some validity to the concept yet, with the right "stuff".

Gear

I doubt it, those bullets would have age SOFTENED in a couple years, not continued to harden! They may have age hardened for a couple WEEKs but it's all down hill from there, it may be a slow process but they soften after reaching maximum hardness in the first two weeks. More cyber myths/wives tales

[RedHawk357Mag]

Haven't used yet. But each time at store looking for powder I also look for Frog Lube. I know this is You tube and I know it's the Internet but...I am going to give it a try as soon as i find a place with free shipping on in a brick and mortar. This is what sold me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KCHARdTCjE

[M-Tecs]

If anyone else is tossing the Frog Lube please send it my way.

The more I use it the more I like it. I have had the same results as W.R.Buchanan posted above. I first started using it on my 1911’s with great results. Same for my AR’s.

This winter I ran it in my Benelli Super Black Eagle for late season goose hunting. The temps went down to minus 23 without issue. This year it will be used on everything.

For other than BP I have long since dumped Ballistol for EEZOX http://eezox.com/gun-care.html

Eezox is a very impressive product. If Frog Lube out performs it I will become a fan boy.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Most of the problems people have with it are due to one of two things; they either do not get all of the petroleum products off of the gun before using it, or they put too much on and do not wipe off the excess. Either will cause the FL to gum up and not work correctly.

FL works like car wax; you should not be able to see any of it after wiping it off. If you can see paste or liquid, you are using it wrong. Just like car wax, you can feel the difference in the metal after using it. It is smooth and slick. As soon as you shoot, it turns into a nice liquid lubricant that repels carbon (water and oil don’t mix). That makes clean up a breeze. The bulk of the carbon wipes off of the gun with a rag. The remaining carbon comes right off with a little more FL and a patch.

[AMT7]

Frog lube,Used it on the AR15, gummed it up in cold weather tossed mine, snake oil!
But smells good though.

We have frog lube on over 12 guns from new .223/ 5.56 m4's x6, 2x 6.8 spc m4's, a Sig p238, Shield 9mm, Walther pps 9mm, Tanflugio 10mm, and shot all on weather below 40F but not below 30F. All performrd very well. But we applied the liquid only sparingly and heated. What its made from will get thicker with temp drop when applied too thick as I did a bit if a test. Guy on another forum did a panel outdoor test over the winter against several other lubes. Frog lube was the clear winner. Ballistol may be best for folks shooting in coldest weather that do not use so much precision in lube application. Just our experiences.

[leftiye]

It's what you get fer reading the can.

[dikman]

Ah, another one of them thar "metal-seasoning" products........

[Doc Highwall]

I bought the paste and I used it on a AR with a dedicated Spikes 22 Lr. conversion. First I dissembled and cleaned/degreased the gun (bought the upper used) then I placed a dab of the paste where I wanted it and used a 900 degree paint stripper to apply heat to melt the paste. All I can say is the gun works a lot better with the Frog Lube then other lubes and with the blow back operation of a 22rf round the crud can build up faster then a center fire. Until I find something better I will continue to use the Frog Lube.

[tomme boy]

Explain how the pores OPEN up in metal?

[Old Caster]

Explain how the pores OPEN up in metal?

It works the same as a thermos. It keeps stuff cold and it keeps stuff hot. How do it know.

[dragon813gt]

Explain how the pores OPEN up in metal?

I think he used the term incorrectly. Steel is porous by nature. When you heat the lube up it will seep into the pores unlike a paste which just stays on top. I'm not a frog lube detractor. I've had to many failures w/ grease like lubes. And all of them were during cold weather. Lube is like a religion so use what works best for you. I'm always open to new ideas. But most of them fall flat on their face.

[Doc Highwall]

The directions for the Frog Lube say to heat the gun up like in direct sun which is enough heat to melt even the paste, I only used the heat gun because I am inpatient some times.

[JimA]

I finally bought into the FL pitch about a year ago. It's good stuff. You have to follow directions and clean all metal surfaces, heat up the metal, apply all over and let cool. When cool wipe off everything well and reassemble. Powder fowling wipes off with no solvent and when I do need something in the bore, it's FL liquid.
Leaves your hands "minty fresh" when you're done.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Fastfire: If your gun gummed up you put too much on and didn't wipe off the excess. Simple as that. follow the instructions.

Quote from M-Tecs above.

Most of the problems people have with it are due to one of two things; they either do not get all of the petroleum products off of the gun before using it, or they put too much on and do not wipe off the excess. Either will cause the FL to gum up and not work correctly.

FL works like car wax; you should not be able to see any of it after wiping it off. If you can see paste or liquid, you are using it wrong. Just like car wax, you can feel the difference in the metal after using it. It is smooth and slick. As soon as you shoot, it turns into a nice liquid lubricant that repels carbon (water and oil don’t mix). That makes clean up a breeze. The bulk of the carbon wipes off of the gun with a rag. The remaining carbon comes right off with a little more FL and a patch.

tommeboy: Metal expands when heated.

It has a "Surface Profile" or roughness (pores) which is generally microscopic (This is what paint sticks to.)

When heated the surface expands which opens the pores and also liquefies the Frog Lube which flows into the depressions. Some of the lubricant is left behind after the excess is wiped off. As the gun heats up from firing the FL melts and provides lubrication.

If you really have had problems with Frog Lube then you didn't follow the instructions, I know this to be a fact, simply because I did follow the instructions, and the stuff performed perfectly.

AR's are the toughest firearms on lubricants that there is. They are finicky and will malfunction if not lubricated properly or kept wet enough. This stuff was made for those guns and both my Kel Tec SU16 and Bushmaster Carbon 15 run so much more reliably on the stuff than they ever did on OIL. My Mossberg 500 is three times slicker with the Frog lube than it ever was with grease.

When I got my Springfield M2 I completely disassembled it and removed all dried up grease from 1935, and redid the whole gun with Frog Lube. It will never rust again, and is so slick when operating the bolt I can do it with my finger tips.

My Browning Citori Sporting Clays Edition O/U in .410 came to me essentially new (70 rounds fired) It was stiff to open and packed with dried synthetic grease. It got the Frog Lube treatment as well and now opens and closed smoothly and with half the effort previously required. This gun was $2000 and I would not hesitate to use the Frog Lube of a $25,000 Kreighoff should one appear at my house after my retirement. (good chance! actually)

I have several other CLP type lubricants in my shop and I use all of them here and there. I have SEAL, Ballistol, Frog Lube, and several others that I have gotten as samples at the SHOT Show and other smaller gun shows. I use the Frog Lube on my guns. I use the other stuff on my machines including reloading presses (Dillon550's runs real slick on Frog Lube) or any sliding surface. I also use the others for rust inhibitors on reloading dies and any place you would normally use oil.

I will give you a heads up on my posts here and elsewhere. I don't endorse bad products. In fact I pretty much call them what they are to the limits of the profanity filter on the site.

This stuff is "that good!"

Randy

[quasi]

Frog Lube is expensively packaged Soy Lube 100.

[jmort]

Thinking Frog Lube is the answer to rust prevention is a mistake. It do seem like it may be the same as or similar to the Soy Lube mentioned. It is crazy expensive, but most "firearms"relabeled products are crazy expensive.

[Reloader06]

I could not agree with Randy more. I find the stuff amazing. I've been using it for a couple of years. The trick is to follow the directions. I used rubbing alcohol to remove the petroleum Let it dry then heat with a cheap HF heat gun and apply. I'll let it sit for awhile then wipe it of and patch it out. It does seem to have the patches come out a little dirty after letting it sit, but I attribute that to getting the carbon out of the "pores".

Use it, don't use it. the choice is yours. My stuff runs MUCH better with just a little FL.

This is where I got it from:http://www.botach.com/products/frogl...tive-kits.html

Matt

[hickfu]

hmm, maybe I will give it a shot on my 1911 and XD45 and 9mm... Maybe on the reloading presses as well
Where would I get this stuff?

Doc