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Thread: Bullets not releasing from Lee mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Bullets not releasing from Lee mold

    Evening, I need some advice. My bullets are not releasing properly from my Lee bullet mold forcing me to knock out the cast with a wood hammer handle. I am scared that i will damaging the mold. The lee manual explain that you need to smoke the mold to release cast quickly. Any advice would be highly appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    Blammer's Avatar
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    clean the mould really well, check for tiny burrs on the side of the mould.
    smoke and tap the handles gently to get them to fall.

  3. #3
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    DLCTEX's Avatar
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    Do a search for"sure fire Lee-menting technique". I am not able to post a link from my tablet. It I in the stickies section. There are other threads on it but this one does it well.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I'm not a seasoned caster, but from what I have seen, read, and heard, a good mold will not be sticky. Check the obvious, like, is the alloy seeping between the sprue plate and mold. If so, the plate is either not tight or warped. Clean, clean, and clean your mold with hot soapy water and a scrub brush. Then dry thoroughly. Lube the alignment pins and sprue plate hinge with bullet lube or mold lube. Do NOT get any lube in the cavities! Lots of people smoke the mold with either a candle or match or lighter. The carbon keeps the alloy from sticking somewhat. You can also use commercial mold release. Another option is lee-menting which is described in stickies as well as polishing the mold with toothpaste or comet cleaner and a toothbrush. You can also use a wood dowel or popsicle stick to rub the edges of the mold where the cavity is cut to try and remove any burrs. Good Luck!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master hickfu's Avatar
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    go to your local Harbor Freight and pick up a brass wire brush... brush the mold cavities with it and it will take any burrs away... I use it every 10 casts or so to make sure my boolits drop easily. Brass wont hurt or even scratch Aluminum

    Doc

  6. #6
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    Jeff R's Avatar
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    Once you have deburred the edges of your mould cavities, check out the "Kroil in a Boolit Mould" sticky. I tried it and its increases a moulds dropability by about 90%, in my experience. I use it every time I cast now.
    Regards,
    Jeff
    Before you criticize another man, you should walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you criticize him, you'll be a mile away from him, . . . and you'll have his shoes.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
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    Scrub the cavities with a toothbrush and Comet. This both cleans and does
    a light deburr.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    ^+1
    Lee molds, (and pretty most any mold) simply need a thorough scrubbing and deburr to get them ready for production. (I have never used Comet, so I will try that on the next one, Thanks MtGun44.)
    I normally use dish washing detergent, Dawn or what have you, scrub with a toothbrush and hot water. Then I will carefully inspect the edges of the cavities under my magnifying glass for burrs. Also, a fresh cotton or paper towel will grab on a tiny burr. If I find one, I will use a new exacto blade and VERY carefully flick it off.
    Smoke typically is not required.
    Good luck!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    New caster here, lot of good advice other than the brass brush, you are assuming that the Chinese brass is really brass and not brass plated or colored. One of those things won't be coming near my aluminum molds. But I had two of my three Lee molds sticking. Cleaned with spray carb cleaner, lightly added a wd40 brand product (out of Kroil that would be best to use) then tried them. Better, one cavity of each worked. So I got out the barkeepers friend (comet alternative) and using Bullitt polished the mold. Link above is good read. All now drop like they should. Goodluck

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Machine oils/coolants can be pretty hard to remove from aluminum. I suggest the Comet cleaning method and possibly a "lapping" with oil and Comet follower by a thourough cleaning (use a bullet cast from the mold with a self drilling sheet metal screw screwed in the bottom and coated with the oil/comet and slowly rotated in the mold with a hand drill/power screwdriver). This will "polish" the cavity without removing any metal and also clean up any small burrs...

    If you do need to rap the mold, don't hit the mold blocks themselves, just tap the handle nut...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks everyone for the good advice. Bought a brass brush and scrubbed the mold. Checked for burrs and cannot see any. Cast still sticking
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    1) When you are able to get the boolits out, are they well filled out, smooth, etc, or are they wrinkled? If so, your mold may not be up to temp yet.
    2) Take a match stick, wooden, and carefully rub the edges of each cavity. This can help to gently burnish any burrs you might miss.
    3) Turn the mold upside down when you go to open and drop. Seriously, it can work.

  13. #13
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    DLCTEX's Avatar
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    To avoid damage to a mould by the screw driving through the boolit when Leementing a mould, use a short (1/2 in.) metal screw with a hex head. The head will serve as a depth stop and I think the hex head in a nut setter chucked in the drill lets the boolit float easily.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Marlin Junky's Avatar
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    A brass brush?!

    You could have simply been pouring an alloy which was too hot or the temp differential (between the mold and alloy) was excessive.

    MJ
    It's not about gun control, it's about people control. The progressives are using terrorists and the insane to further their agenda. If the socialist news media wasn't complicit, we could sit back and watch Fast & Furious and Benghazi-gate unfold.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    New caster here, lot of good advice other than the brass brush, you are assuming that the Chinese brass is really brass and not brass plated or colored. One of those things won't be coming near my aluminum molds. But I had two of my three Lee molds sticking. Cleaned with spray carb cleaner, lightly added a wd40 brand product (out of Kroil that would be best to use) then tried them. Better, one cavity of each worked. So I got out the barkeepers friend (comet alternative) and using Bullitt polished the mold. Link above is good read. All now drop like they should. Goodluck
    Barkeepers friend is some good stuff (It polishes and cleans the cavities). This is the least invasive or possible damaging you can do, yet polishes any burrs overlooked. I use it on all new molds along with a toothbrush.

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold
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    Boolit Mold
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    I have do e everything possible to sort this mold out and he is give me a run for my money. I have clean with acetone, break cleaner, scrubbed with a brass brush and lubed with kroil. The bullets are still stubborn to come out. I have checked for burrs under a magnifying glass and found nothing. Know leementing. I used the smallest screw and casted a soft bullet and twisted in the screw. Then i tried to polish the cavity with no luck as the bullet do not want to turn? What know? This had been a major learning curve
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  18. #18
    Boolit Mold
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  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Brass brush is a bad idea. Scrub with comet and a toothbrush.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  20. #20
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    DLCTEX's Avatar
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    Hold the boolit loosely between the mould halves and start the boolit turning, then slowly close the mould on the turning boolit. When the mould will close, stop and wipe the faces of the mould halves clean, close the mould and continue spinning the boolit.

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