Split the difference and get a 12"er in 30-30? Still pretty handy and that added 2" will make a world of difference in performance while not being too cumbersome..
Split the difference and get a 12"er in 30-30? Still pretty handy and that added 2" will make a world of difference in performance while not being too cumbersome..
With any overbore cartridge in the 10" barrels, powder is the key. It is hard to beat SR-4759 in any of these, unless your goal is maximum velocity, and then most would use longer barrels.
What lee mold do you sugest to start casting for .30 Herrett in my 10in contender?
What lead Alloy works best?
What are good sources for loading data for the cast bullets any powders work better with them than others?
I am new to this are there any resources you suggest I check out to learn more about the process?
I have reloaded for decades and cast soft lead for my black powder and canons
Thanks for any help
FYI, this is a real old thread, but it does not really matter.
My primary application was IHMSA so I wanted to be in the 150 - 190 range for my Herretts (10" & 14") and my 14" 30-30.
I have both the Lee 150 and the Lee 170 Molds.
I was never able to get a close to full power happy load with the 150s in any of the above barrels.
The 170s drop at 175 with my ~10 bhn range lead and I shoot them ASBB HF Red coated with no gas checks.
With a power on the slow end of the typical range (WC 844 - same as H335), I got good accuracy from my 175s up close to book maximum.
For a different gun, I decided I wanted a plain base, so I modified one of the two cavities to remove the gas check step. That cavity now gives me 180s that shoot about the same as the 175s in the Herretts.
Hi Tamjoazoc, and welcome to Cast Boolits! Just a few questions before I start....
1. Have you been loading and shooting your .30 Herrett with jacketed bullets?
2. Sorry, didn't read the last line of your OP. Depending on the BP you shoot, you might even be using a lead/tin mix. If you are just getting started with tertiary alloyed lead, I would recommend sticking with a known alloy such as Lyman #2, or 94/3/3. The key to preventing leading is to make sure the bullet fits the throat and don't try to scream cast bullets like you would jacketed.
Ok, here are some thoughts. First, I have a TC G2 with a Super 14 .30 Herrett barrel, and I shoot cast in it, so what I'm providing is based on personal experience. My favorite plinking load is either the Lee TL314-90-SWC or the Lee C309-120R (I reamed the GC shank from the mould so it's a plain base,) both sized to .310. I usually powder coat them and shoot them over 3.0 gr Bullseye. These are fun, easy, and fairly accurate to 50 yds. The alloy I use is just a mix of about 96% pb, 2% sb, 2% sn. It can be fairly soft as the velocity is low and they are PCd. As long as the bullet fits the throat and barrel, it's all good. Now, for heavier shooting, I'll switch to the Ideal/Lyman pattern 311413 or 311414, or the NOE 311-165FN-30XCB bullet in Lyman #2. I shoot these Gas Checked and PCd over Blue Dot, 2400, or AA5744/SW Buffalo Rifle. I'm still working on loads that will get me better than 2MOA at 100 yds. If you'd like, I can PM you some published cast load information. Best of luck to you!
Ed
Last edited by RedlegEd; 07-09-2020 at 08:34 PM.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
What about a 357 maximum they do good out of a 10" barrel
kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |