Removing Pins on New Lee 2 Cavity Mold

[Cerd]

I was removing my handles from the blocks to send to Buckshot for converting it from TC to HP.

I've read lots of posts about how to remove the pins from an older Lee bullet mold, but I couldn't find anything on the new ones. I thought about the design. The screws couldn't have been inserted cold because if the mold gets too hot, they could just fall out. So, I put them in a vice and used a small plumber's torch to heat the mold. At about 250-300F, the screws popped freely using a 3/32 hex key. Allen wrenches didn't have enough leverage for me and I wasn't going to get my hand that close to that hot of metal.

This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

Obviously the block will have to be reheated to the same temp to reinsert the screws. My only concern was that the screws are actually about 0.5 turns/inch which is EXTREMELY course. Do you guys think that I should drill and tap with something with a finer thread to help keep it in? Obviously if I did this, I would have to keep the blocks hot throughout the whole process.

Thanks for your input guys,


Cerd

[zuke]

Their made that way for a reason, so If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Bullshop Junior]

Glad to hear there are using screws now. The pins are a pain once they start falling out

[Nobade]

They're not EXACTLY what I would call screws. They look like EZ-outs.

I wish I had thought to try heating it up to remove them. I just took apart a way out of spec 8mm mould to open up to something useful and I am going to have to drill and tap new holes for the handles since I harmed the originals so bad.

I didn't know it was possible to buy aluminum that soft. I suppose casting with it removed the temper, but jeez - I can't see how Lee can cut that stuff without tearing it. I guess I'll find out, it's going to be opened up to make a .342" slick for my 35 cal. muzzle loader.

-Nobade

[Cerd]

Well, I noticed that they had Allen wrench heads on them. I figured there was no point in having a detailed head like that unless it was a screw. As for the heat, I got the idea from some articles about brazing where they used 2 different types of metal to get a tighter fit. It only made sense; not to mention all of the tricks I use under the hood of my car for stubborn bolts. I only hope that the screws hold when reinserted. I may have to use heavy duty loctite since the heat will break light or medium duty.

[Buckshot]

..............The items in question aren't really screws but 'Drive Rivets'. The 3/32 hex head is there only as a guide for the punch used to drive them into place. The very shallow thread pitch is there only to displace aluminum as they are driven into the hole in the blocks. They aren't really intended to be 'unscrewed'. More conventional round head drive rivets were used to retain sheet steel heat shields to the underside of cast iron V-8 intake manifolds, shields over old style bi-metal coil carburetor choke controls, and such like.

................Buckshot

[Cerd]

So would you recommend just putting a 3/32 screwdriver bit on it and smack it back in with a hammer?

[Nobade]

Aah, thank you. I knew they had a name but didn't remember what it was!

-Nobade

[Buckshot]

So would you recommend just putting a 3/32 screwdriver bit on it and smack it back in with a hammer?

..................I would hope that would be successful. On my 2 newest Lee's of the new design, both had one of those new 'screws' that had created an obvious bulge on the outside surface, with the metal being thin enough to show the threads in high relief. How successful it would be driving one back in and having it stay, especially after it's having parted company with the blocks once already, would be interesting. Hope I don't ever have to find out, but besides driving it back in might be the only option.

.............Buckshot

[uscra112]

Hit the outside of the pin bore with a punch a few times to displace metal back into the hole. They should hold then.

I just got my first-ever of these new design Lee moulds, and man, I can't say enough bad about it without using inappropriate language. Are they having them made in South Waziristan or something?

[Cerd]

High temp threadlocker (the one meant for the internal parts of an engine) has a max temp of 450F. I only had to heat the block to about 250F to pop them out. When I get the blocks back, I think I will have to heat the block up to the same temp and apply a little bit of that high temp threadlocker. It should be fine just by using a screwdriver with said threadlocker.

I say "high temp threadlocker" because not all are Loctite brand. nor are all red threadlockers high temp.

[Certaindeaf]

.I just got my first-ever of these new design Lee moulds, and man, I can't say enough bad about it without using inappropriate language. Are they having them made in South Waziristan or something?

Is that a six gang? I wonder how much any other sixer costs.

[DLCTEX]

^^^ These would be 2 cavity. The six cavity uses standard screws.

[Cerd]

Heating the block with a torch to about 400F was hot enough to expand, yet not warp. I just gave the screws a few light taps with a hammer on the back of the screwdriver and it hasn't come loose yet.

[Geezer in NH]

I would have sent it of whole. How much do you need to save on shipping? Just saying

[Cerd]

Buckshot only wanted the blocks, so I removed them before shipping.

[MT Chambers]

Just hold the mold over your melt, the pins will fall out and half the mold will end up in your melt, be patient.

[Cerd]

So far, they are still in there firm. Regardless, how would you have recommended it, MT Chambers?

[c1skout]

I've got 1 of those screwy rivets that keeps falling out all by itself. Thanks for the tip on peening the outside metal, I'll try that the next time I use the mold.

[MT Chambers]

So far, they are still in there firm. Regardless, how would you have recommended it, MT Chambers?

I just simply don't use them anymore, way to many good mold makers out there now and I'll pay a premium to not have to fight with molds.