I wanted Swedish and ended up with Swiss

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Darrell, comments in the quote in red.

It would appear kpl Alfred Stouffer didn't do too much boot cleaning with his weapon. Is it proper protocol to leave the tag in place? Trust me on this: If you move that tag off the rifle and lose it, you will regret it. Best thing to do is to write that address and see what kind of response you get.

I slugged the bore and came up with .310"/.298". I looks like I can finally put my Lyman 311291to work.

I have been checking out threads and feel I have a pretty start on this rifle, but I do have a couple of questions:

Are there any quirks and or do/do nots unique to the function and loading for this rifle? It's a straight pull, but it's still a bolt action and can be cleaned like one. The GI surplus kits for these, if you can find one, are darn nice and have an excellent grease that works well for lubing them or for storing any bolt action to prevent rust in barrel. And it only takes a tiny, tiny bit of it. I got a kit with one full jar and one partial. I've never used any out of the full jar in ten years.

Is there a good you-tube video about stripping for cleaning?Google is your friend, but it's pretty basic.

Any reason to shoot the box of factory or pull the bullets and go straight to boolits? The GI surplus is berdan primed, but the brass is excellent and the bullets work very well in that rifle. Before you buy or reload anything, I would suggest getting a box of the surplus and shoot it with that first. Those guys shoot and know how to make quality, accurate ammunition for their military.

oh yeah, $300 with the box of factory. You done good.

[upnorthwis]

I drilled and tapped my Swiss scope mount to fit a Weaver base. That way I could use my 30MM rings to hold a 6-24x50 Vortex. Have only taken about a 100 shots so far, but scope hasn't moved yet.

[brotherdarrell]

I am in full blown OCD at this point. As usual I am way over analyzing, but by the time I get the factory ammo shot and get lead loaded it will be a couple of weeks. So, if I am boring anyone I apologize. You would think I was loading 22 centerfire.

I decided to drop a Saeco #315 (NOE) into the "throat" and give it a little tap. This is what came out...



The second small body band from the left shows where the start of the rifling lifted up some lead. This is the start of the throat. What is not so apparant in my slightly fuzzy photo is engraving on the first three body bands but not the nose, which is .301" (bore diameter is .298"). The body band with the lifted lead is .309" (groove diameter is .310"). I think I will be all right but, as usual, welcome any experienced opinions. I will also try to chill out a little until I actually shoot this thing)

Darrell

[madsenshooter]

I drilled and tapped my Swiss scope mount to fit a Weaver base. That way I could use my 30MM rings to hold a 6-24x50 Vortex. Have only taken about a 100 shots so far, but scope hasn't moved yet.

Or, one can buy dovetail to Weaver adapters off e-bay. They come in a variety of configurations. I got one of the really tight SIG made barrels. .294/.306. Shoots great, no doubt my best shooting milsurp. Finding a bullet that'd fit the bore/groove without seating below the neck/shoulder wasn't easy. But I got lucky, I'd bought the cherry for the Eagan MX3-30AR off ebay and had a mold made with it. Perfect fit. Even the NOE K31 bullet was too big for my rifle. Looks like you may have found one already though. Here's the adapters I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vector-Optic...item1e75935653 Allows me up to a 40mm objective bell.

[madsenshooter]

"Small enough to make you smile". NOE's fatnosed version of the 315, their 314175 did just that that for me today. It was out of a Krag though. Top band on it is .304.