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Thread: The Official Steel Wool, Tung Oil, Bees Wax On a Buffer Stock Refinishing Thread.

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have done antique wood refinishing for decades and have used MANY different paints and wood finishes/stains/coverings. I even had a 2 quarter engineering class on finishing technologies!

    Tung oil and walnut oil soak into the wood and form a molecular bond with/in the wood. You still have the wood on the surface to see/touch. Creates an iridescent grain glow on highly figured species of woods. They do seal and unlike lacquer which only coats, will be somewhat moisture resistant. Wood objects from Ancient Egypt have been found finished with tung oil!

    You must use a penetrating drying/polymerizing oil. Nitrocellulose lacquer is not a wise choice for wood exposed to heavy moisture. (White rings on furniture anyone??)Spar and BLO are other olde tyme finishes that have their use. There are some new polyurethane finishes out there that claim to be excellent, but I do not use them, as everything I do is like the "olde masters" used to use.

    But any items I have refinished/reproduced, I have always used a drying oil you rub in and let sit for several days (!)......if it will be exposed to H20 (rain/dew/sweat/beer) in any quantities.

    If not, shellacs and lacquers are the fast easy way to go! Check out Mohawk Finishing products for excellent items.

    bangerjim

  2. #22
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUKE NUKEM View Post
    We learned this in first year shop class in Jr High. Good info though and thanks.
    Me too, prob 1970. One of the things that stuck with me. Never seen it happen, but I've thought about trying it in a safe area. Sit back in the shade with a cigar and a beverage and wait for the show.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondog View Post
    Me too, prob 1970. One of the things that stuck with me. Never seen it happen, but I've thought about trying it in a safe area. Sit back in the shade with a cigar and a beverage and wait for the show.
    I saw an employer cook his dumpster after failing to heed my warning. But what do I know.
    I put oily rags in a metal bucket with a lid filled with water.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
    Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUKE NUKEM View Post
    So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
    Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.
    If I was planning on eating off my stock, then I would use a food grade finish like above. HA....ha.

    Most of my stuff is not for human consumption so I do not worry about tung oil.....which is NOT food grade safe.

    I use beeswax for many finishing steps at the end. It is a great final coat over wood and other things. I use it on all my saw/jointer/shaper/sander tables to make them slide easy and eliminate rust.

    You just can't beat Mother Nature!

    banger

  6. #26
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    I have refinished a couple of stocks, and used a product called Linspeed. It was a mixture of linseed oil and something else. Both stocks turned out just fine. As far as I know, Linspeed is still available.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CastingFool View Post
    I have refinished a couple of stocks, and used a product called Linspeed. It was a mixture of linseed oil and something else. Both stocks turned out just fine. As far as I know, Linspeed is still available.
    Probably Linseed Oil, Mineral Spirits and Carnuba Wax. We need a MSDS on the product.

  8. #28
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    Found a link to the site. They want to sell the company.

    http://www.lin-speed.com/

  9. #29
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    Whatever it is, they must refine it from gold bullion...................$10/2oz? OMG!

    banger

  10. #30
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    I believe the finish WR is speaking of is called Gun Savr' and sold by Brownells. The pics I've posted that you had asked about Duke were all finished with that by either the Gun maker or myself. It is very good keeping out moisture but as Ric said....no finish is completely impervious. It's a Tung oil varnish combo. It comes as a liquid in a can and also spray cans. I use both. Cut the liquid by about 50% and keep coating the stock all day as it soaks in. I then spray and sand between coats for 4 to 6 coats and then rub it down. You can make it any sheen you want and you simply can't tell it from an old time oil finish and it's a much better finish. I can't even begin to imagine how many board feet of lumber or the number of gunstocks I've done using every finish imaginable and I like that finish for guns the best. For my furniture and cabinets I use oil based varnishes. You couldn't give me BLO for finishing anything.

  11. #31
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    NOW YOU WENT AND DID IT DUKE!!!

    I'm going to have to go out and buy a rifle just so I can finish the stock.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Whatever it is, they must refine it from gold bullion...................$10/2oz? OMG!

    banger
    Price has changed since I last purchased it, but it does go a long way. 2 oz would do a few stocks. If you refinish 5 stocks, that's only $2 per stock. Duracoat is listed for $34.95 a can, that does 4 firearms.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUKE NUKEM View Post
    Thanks for joining us sir. Perhaps you could share your process you used on Joni's rifle.
    Coats of TrueOil and hand rubbing with 0000 steel wool, followed by a paper towel polish.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master leftiye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUKE NUKEM View Post
    So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
    Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.
    Might be.... I always wax after getting the best BLO finish I can. Birchwood Casey's gunstock wax. I suspect it's a bzwx and solvent concoction. I in general don't Like Birchwood Casey's products, but I started with using this wax and am satisfied, and have a 30 year old bottle (glass) that I just keep adding fresh product to to keep it useable. It is dried out some, and I like it better thataway.
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  15. #35
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    So after reading this post several times I'm wondering... I have a older Remington .22 rifle that the stock that looked like it has some sort of shiny type factory varnish on it but a few scratches through the finish. Overall fairly good condition. How should I prep to use the Spar/BLO/Mineral Spirits method that has been mentioned? Fully strip all the old finish off or prep with Scotch-Brite. In the end I would like the non gloss look. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
    Jeepyj
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  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by CastingFool View Post
    Price has changed since I last purchased it, but it does go a long way. 2 oz would do a few stocks. If you refinish 5 stocks, that's only $2 per stock. Duracoat is listed for $34.95 a can, that does 4 firearms.
    That is VERY expensive considering what I spend on my finishes.....pennies. Try finishing a tabletop with that "gold bullion" stuff!!!!!!! Tabletops get far more abuse than a gun stock.

    banger

  17. #37
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    DukeNukem & all; Not trying to hijack the thread, but, I have an old Comblain rifle that was ill treated, and stored badly. Somewhere along the line, someone put varnish or some other finish on it. I used to be an upholsterer, and refinished furniture, so I can recognize the signs. I've used turpentine and 4'0' steel wool to gently buff the stock, and a LOT of dirt and grime came off. I'm not trying to strip it, as I want to preserve the cartouches. If anyone is interested, it's a Civil Guard rifle, and I hope to shoot it next week. But back to the stock. There is that 'new' finish layer on it, plus paint speckles, plus gummed finish and dirt on it. Once I get it clean, what should I put on it? I never had proper training when I was refinishing furniture, and while the customers liked my work, I was never satisfied with it. SO, after I get the buttstock and foreend clean, what should I put on it? I have tung oil, and I guess I could get other stuff. I just want the old girl to look good, without looking like 'bubba' worked on it. Thanks for any advice. mikey

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master leftiye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepyj View Post
    So after reading this post several times I'm wondering... I have a older Remington .22 rifle that the stock that looked like it has some sort of shiny type factory varnish on it but a few scratches through the finish. Overall fairly good condition. How should I prep to use the Spar/BLO/Mineral Spirits method that has been mentioned? Fully strip all the old finish off or prep with Scotch-Brite. In the end I would like the non gloss look. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
    Jeepyj
    Just plain Tung oil will give you a very flat finish. If it is too flat, you can add BLO to taste. Note: all oil finishes will polish to a shine eventually just from handling. I've never sucessfully just roughened a varnish type finish, and refinished over it (not that I spent a lot of time trying).
    We need somebody/something to keep the government (cops and bureaucrats too) HONEST (by non government oversight).

    Every "freedom" (latitude) given to government is a loophole in the rule of law. Every loophole in the rule of law is another hole in our freedom. When they even obey the law that is. Too often government seems to feel itself above the law.

    We forgot to take out the trash in 2012, but 2016 was a charm! YESSS!

  19. #39
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    Cliff Noll I think was the longrifle smiths name , used to write for Buckskin Report in '80s. His final finish after several rubbed in and cured apps of BLO over several weeks was about 1/3 pint of BLO and a small hunk of beeswax .45 cal in dia. With this in a double boiler affair to melt wax , it was mixed while hot and applied hot . A little dab on stock and rubbed in with heel of hand . Just enough to get a sheen then set aside some place warm. Buff out with old denim and repeat until until all grain is smooth. Gives a nice warm luster an not a high gloss plastic mirror shine.

  20. #40
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    +10 0n what JonB in Glencoe said.

    Nationwide I do not know how many gallons of "finishes" including BLO and mineral Spirits get poured up over a year, but a BUNCH!
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check