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Thread: Help with a 450

  1. #1
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    Help with a 450

    I have a Lyman 450 with a stripped Sizing Die Retaining Nut, and it pushes lube out the bottom when used. I cant tell if the body is stripped or if its the nut. If it's the nut that's easy enough. If it's the body where does that leave me? Can I chase the threads out (what size) or is there an over sized nut out there or am I SOL.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    gray wolf's Avatar
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    Most times it's the nut, stripped or cracked, call Lyman and get a new nut.
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  3. #3
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    I have stopped a small leak by mounting it tight to the bench with a piece of rubber 1/8" thick under it. It acts as a soft seal and resists enough to keep lube flowing where it should. Secondly make absolutely sure you only pressurize the cylinder when it can lube a boolit, never against the die in the up position.
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  4. #4
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    I've never pulled one apart and I'm not 100% on the name of parts but I think the lube is coming out of the gap between the main body and the screw that turns to drive the lube into the die.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy

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    Lyman has a full parts list for the 450. I would print it out, plus save a copy as a file.
    Invaluable for fixing the darned thing.

    The Professor had a thread where he took one into the machine shop, and made it wonderful.

    But as I recall, leaking is either common, or commonly the result of over pressurizing the lube. Are you using a hard lube?
    OeldeWolf
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  6. #6
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    Hard lube with a heater. But the two I have were both bought used and leaked from the beginning. trying to decide on getting another used one or a new one or rebuilding the one I have.

  7. #7
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    I just ordered the parts I need to rebuild them. Anyone have website where I can order the time to do it now.

    Camo

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by camotruck View Post
    I've never pulled one apart and I'm not 100% on the name of parts but I think the lube is coming out of the gap between the main body and the screw that turns to drive the lube into the die.

    In my experience they all do that.

    I put a piece of aluminum foil or plastic wrap under the casting to keep it off the bench top.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    that sounds like a big "affirmative" on the leak, and a second for a rubber gasket on the bottom.


    They are not at all hard to rebuild, once you get all the old lube out of them.
    OeldeWolf
    who may yet be kicked out of the Republik of Kalifornia for owning too many firearms.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master bearcove's Avatar
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    Yep! mount on top of a sheet of rubber. The lube pressure screw has no seal, so it leaks out the bottom
    I'm just the welder, go ask him>

  11. #11
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    I knew there was a reason I picked up those old inner tubes.

  12. #12
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    If you have the heater that Lyman sold in the past; that the 450 bolts to then is screwed to the bench, I don't think the heater will work very well with a gasket between it and the luber. I could be wrong, but mine doesn't seem to put out much heat.

    Robert

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Another thing that happens to my 45 is if I forget to back off the pressure nut off when finished sizing the next time I preheat and the lube expands it seems to want to leak in a few extra places. From what I've seen they all require a bit of baby sitting.
    Jeepyj
    Sometimes it takes a second box of boolits to clear my head.
    Feed back thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...?261449-jeepyj

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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