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Thread: Remington 30-06 not cycling the brass out of the chamber

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    Remington 30-06 not cycling the brass out of the chamber

    Hey Guys. Gotta 742 not kicking out the brass. The bolt is cycling but not the brass in the chamber. Any ideas? Never pulled the bolt out and not sure how to start.
    just puttin' along

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    Couple of ideas. Most likely the extractor is slipping over the rim of the cases. I'm not familiar with the extractor on a 742 but someone will come along who is and tell you how to adjust or replace it. The other possibility that comes to mind would be a rusted chamber. In this case the rust makes the case stick to the chamber walls and the extractor usually rips a piece of the rim of the brass out. If the cases come out of the chamber easily when you remove them by hand it is probably my first guess.
    Good luck,
    Rick

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    Its slipping off the head Rick. I pop it out of the chamber by hand with a little bit of effort. It definitely doesn't fall out if I shake it.
    It has to be coaxed out with a small pry tool or flat head. Thanks Rick
    just puttin' along

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    I shot a jamatic for over 50 years,You have to keep the chamber clean.If it is pulling a peice of brass from the head that is your problem.I take and soak it in kroil and the use a chamber brush,a 45 cal brush also fits the chamber,after you get it to operatng again clean it about every 20 to 30 rounds and your problem will be solved.Good Shooting
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master



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    If you want to take it down and get the bolt out you have to take the barrel off. Not hard to do and with it being a rotary bolt no head spacing problems with reassembly. There are several you tube videos that will show you how.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    The Remington 742 is notorius for having rust in the chamber. Very common. This rust will grip the cartridge case when it expands upon firing and won't let the case be withdrawn by the extractor. Often, a portion of the case rim will be torn out as this happens. Use a cleaning rod down the barrel to tap the fired case out. Then polish the chamber and keep a light coat of oil in the chamber from now on.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions men. I think I will attempt barrel removal and clean everything I can possibly clean. Much appreciated. This has been a terrific firearm. Never had a deer get away. A one shot wonder. Lol
    just puttin' along

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    And thank goodness for a one shot wonder as of lately. Lol
    just puttin' along

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    It has bee a few years since I had a 742, but as I remember it isn't all that hard to take the barrel off and the bolt out. There are takedown instructions on the internet; and you may or may not have to remove the scope base to have access to the pin that needs to come out for bolt removal.

    It sounds to me like your extraction problem may be a weak extractor spring, since it isn't ripping a chunk from the rim.

    Robert

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Most likely its rust in the chamber.I do about 75 of these a year. take the barrel off, soak in kroil like w5pv said , then finish up with medium steel wool wrapped around a brushon a drill. use some cleaning fluid to get the Kroil out.Be sure to do this every year cause it comes back. Do it before hunting season. Good luck.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I bought the dreaded Remington 742 in 30-06 for the specific reason that I wanted to see if I could succeed where so many others have failed and fix it. I thought that if I located the problem, I could come up with a way to fix it and that would make me awesome.
    Found out there are three or more basic design flaws with that rifle. All three are not such an issue with lesser recoiling cartridges like 308 or 243 or 7mm-08. Unfortunately, the people who own the rifles in those calibers know how awesome they are and won't turn loose of them (it is an endearing rifle isn't it?).
    The problem is with the rifles chambered in 30-06 and 270. They chew themselves to pieces, they stick brass in the chamber, and they just plain self destruct at about the 400-500 round mark.
    Certainly one of the worst designs in the history of Remington arms.
    The one I bought was 30-06, and I made sure to buy a cheap one so as to be sure to get one that was really jacked up, and I wasn't disappointed. It jammed, it ripped case rims off, and like so many of those who had gone before me, it made me want to wrap the durn thing around a tree.
    Look familiar?
    Attachment 100757
    Turns out, I was unable to fix said mechanical nightmare. I scrubbed out the chamber with steel wool, scotchbright, and even sand paper, I oiled the cartridges, I even messed with the gas system so I could turn it down, or even shut it off. No dice. Honing out the chamber fixed it for about 5-10 shots, then it was back to ripping the rims off.
    I sold it for what I had in it, and I will not work on those janky ***'s any more.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    My cases have no scars. Thanks for the pointers. I'm gonna try ta work on it for my son. He likes it.
    just puttin' along

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    My dad always liked those guns. They worked fine for a year or two. My experience was like goodsteels. I could get them running for a few shots but it would be short lived. He would trade it off and buy another just like it.

    Something I never tried was loading them down to 308 or 300 savage levels when they were new.
    Maybe they would hold up better. Dad always shot factory ammo in these guns.

    In those days I didn't know how to properly download ammo. It's not a subject that's well understood by the general public.
    I wore a 7 mag out trying to load a lighter load of 4831 to 280 level and be accurate. Never did succeed.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    I have a 742 in 280 and had similar problems. The brass would remain in the chamber but not tight enough to be of concern. It if is just not retracting with the bolt head you may find (as I did) that the rivet holding the extractor is broke/missing or otherwise not holding the extracting in the proper position. There is a rounded portion on one end of the extractor. That rounded portion is suppose to fit directly behind the ejector plunger. The rivet is also secured in the same area. Try pushing down the ejector past the bolt face and then rotate the extractor clockwise. If you are able to rotate then you have a broke rivet.

    I ordered a new rivet for mine, punched out the old "pieces" or rivet (one in the extractor and one in the bolt head) and replaced. GTG now. Hope this helps. You can get a new rivet from ebay for about 8 bucks or a new extractor and rivet combo for about 30.

    Hope this helps,
    Kevin

    Kevin
    “I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them." the duke

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy loaded303's Avatar
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    Gonna tear it down today clean it up and look it over closely. Thanks
    just puttin' along

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    There is a ring set in the bolt face. It sounds like yours might be weak, or broken. A gunsmith can replace it easiy. Then it can take a few shots at the range to get it to seat. Once it seats, you're back in business.

    However, as stated the bolts are harder then the receivers. After repeated use the bolt chews up the rails in the receiver and it's all over. The receiver is toast.

    I've got my grandfathers 742. It shoots. I fixed the extracter ring, cleaned it. And put it in the safe. If you shoot it a few times a year, it will last your lifetime. Shoot it much and it's garbage.

    My shop won't buy them. No. Check that. We buy them for 50 bucks if the wood is good. Strip the receiver of the bolt, firing group, and the magazine. And destroy the receiver. Or we sell it on auction arms if the chatter isn't to bad.

    We get numerous 742 calls around hunting season. Bad gun. Unless you got it free, it ain't worth it. I'd rather own a Taurus.
    "Just try to remember which end makes the bad guys go away."

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have one in 243. I sent it to Remington and they sent it back. I would trade it for something usefull if someone was interrested.

    Paul in WNY
    Think you can, or think you can't. Either way your right.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've got several customers that bring them to me every year before the season and i polish the chamber and they say it works like a charm. Some even make it two yrs. I have found that reloading for them is tough. they are kinda picky about what hey like to shoot. If you want a semi auto that works flawlessly, get you a BAR browning. They are great. They do have problems sometimes but nothing like the 742.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    My son has one in 30-06 and we shoot it on occasion, however we do load it down for everything except hunting. 35gr of H4895 and a 155-170gr boolit runs perfectly and is easy on the receiver.

    We have yet to have any issues with it.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    [QUOTE
    I sold it for what I had in it, and I will not work on those janky ***'s any more.[/QUOTE]

    I always wanted to have a go at one of these myself. The 760's which I thought would be almost the same must be alot differant. I know of alot of 760's that are beat every year and the year and they keep on going. Good thing the price on these went up as I could never justify paying what they now are bringing.
    Look twice, shoot once.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check