That will make a hooooolllleee lot of boolits.
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That will make a hooooolllleee lot of boolits.
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
Nice setup. I'm a bit jealous of that pile of shiny bricks.
How much does each one weigh?
Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952
Each one is 14-15lbs. We should be melting again soon.
I believe I just proved drool is bad for keyboards. Oh wait, you now have to move 3420# of lead ingots? I guess I lack the ambition to go with my coveting of your pile-o-lead.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
2ridgebacks, can you show us some pics of the hardware you used to make your bottom-pour smelting pot? I seem to be headed in that direction, and could use a little guidance on the spigot construction.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
I didn't take a picture, and I think mine is the same or similar to another here. I spec'ed a 1/2" bottom to retain heat and avoid warping. Warping is not conducive to sealing. On that bottom is a block that has been welded. The block is bored through with a countersink or seat cut into it. A rod with a taper or needle engages the seat to seal. I asked to have the needle lapped to the seat. The rod is 3/8", the needle is larger, but small enough to go through a 1/2" threaded hole. About 2/3 up the pot is a support welded to the side of the pot. 1/2"x2" on edge I believe.to that, they used round stock bored and threaded for 1/2-13. That reduces back to 3/8". I didn't spec that, but it's what they did. As for the spout itself, it is just a 1/2" nipple welded below the block.it works well, but as was suggested, I wouldn't want to pay the fuel bill without the fire brick. I didn't brick it up, but next Time I'll stack differently to keep the pour pipe hot.
I'll add this too. The way we bricked it or for another yet to be determined reason, there was a good bit of heated air kicking back out past the propane hose. Enough that it melted the plastic inside the braided and it slipped out if the swaged fitting. There will be a copper line extending back a bit from the burner. We repaired with a hose clamp and a wad of foil for a heat shield for now, but it was interesting briefly.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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