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Thread: Polishing Compound

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    Polishing Compound

    I have some Polishing Compound that's a little dry.

    Any good oil work to reactive or is it a special oil?

    Thanks
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    for metal or for wood finish?

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    Boolit Grand Master

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    Polishing compound is a very broad term. Is it rouges grits ( lapping compunds) diamond or others. All use diffrent carriers some are wax based some water based some oil based some are dry powders mixed with the carrier you want to use. Need more info for an accurate answer

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    Boolit Master


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    No 7 white Polishing compound

    Made by Rain Dance car care products.

    Works cars, metal and real wood
    LOYALTY ABOVE ALL ELSE, EXCEPT HONOR

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    Their MSDS says that they use Kerosene
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    Greetings
    I have been interested in Hall Rifles for some years and read some about the production.
    Final "fitting of the elevating breach block" was accomplished with very fine wheat flour.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Common practice in most machine shops was to save the residue from grinders. Mixed in a light oil suspenson and timing diffrent grits could be obtained. I have an old machinists handbook that gives the procedure and times for the diffrent grits to settle.

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    if your polishing a wood finish after the pumice stone powder and the rotten stone powder, get the HUTS plastic polish or brownells 5 f polishing powder. the HUTS is used to bring back small airplane plastic windshields to clear again and the 5f will do the same. makes the finsh look 3D and be so clear that it looks to disapear.

  9. #9
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    I used HUTS on wood turnings and it does a great job. You can get it too hot on a lathe, though
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Some of the old time gun books suggest using flour of emory mixed in a fine oil for final fitting and lapping in of parts. I bought my polishing compounds at a local machine shop supply house. Comes in large ingot sized bricks. Brownell's sells a few different types of polishing compounds. Worth a look. Frank

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Common practice in most machine shops was to save the residue from grinders. Mixed in a light oil suspenson and timing diffrent grits could be obtained. I have an old machinists handbook that gives the procedure and times for the diffrent grits to settle.
    I've seen that in an old "toolroom methods" book. Mix the grit with oil, wait 2-3 days and pour the oil into another clean jar. What's in the first jar os the coarse stuff. Wait a few days more and do that again. Eventually the only grit still in suspension is fine enough to finish-lap mirrors and lenses. Apparently known in the 18th century, 'cause that's how astronomers got the grits to lap their optics.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    I've seen that in an old "toolroom methods" book. Mix the grit with oil, wait 2-3 days and pour the oil into another clean jar. What's in the first jar os the coarse stuff. Wait a few days more and do that again. Eventually the only grit still in suspension is fine enough to finish-lap mirrors and lenses. Apparently known in the 18th century, 'cause that's how astronomers got the grits to lap their optics.
    good to know--guess if you think about it you wonder why you didn't realize that in the first place
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check