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Thread: 1911 Throating

  1. #41
    Boolit Master stu1ritter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c1skout View Post
    Thanks for the breakdown, would the same be involved for a 45acp revolver cylinder?
    Usually, we measure revolver cylinder throats and size accordingly, or if way too small, use a throating reamer to bring the cylinder up to size. Use pin gauges to measure the cylinder throat, available from Amazon (made by Vermont Gage) starting at $2,50 each.
    Calipers are not accurate enough for this work.
    Stu

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    I think I'll try this out to see if I can get the Colt barrel in my Ballester Molina to stop leading. Tried everything else including powder coating and it still wants to lead. The throat is as abrupt as a brick wall right now.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master

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    Left and right, before and after, SA 1911 compact barrel. This barrel would not chamber a .452" with conventional COA dimensions until it was throated. Shoots very good, no leading. The length of freebore does not seem to be really particular if there is a bit of free jump as it is called before the boolit engages the rifling. Have done a few KKM barrels with as much as .220" throat and they work great.



    KKM barrel for a Glock, owner wanted to shoot .45 Super seated out long, and this throat worked out well for him:

    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throat reaming? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? Shoot me a PM! Also on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Cylinderhone-756429174391912/

  4. #44
    Boolit Man Quiettime's Avatar
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    Had a problem chambering Hornady TAP 230 (Trnc Cone HP) in my Sig Ultra Compact yesterday, had to force the slide closed and when I ejected the round there was a slight ring (no rifling marks) around the bullet.

    I remembered this thread and after re-reading, I ordered my reamer today. For 40 bucks I can do all my 1911's

    Could not find a handle recommended (Brownells site kinda sucks) so I think I am going to try chucking it in my drill press and removing the belt so I can turn it by hand.

    Also saw on another site someone recommended making a short chamber guide by cutting the head off a fired case.

    Any thoughts?
    And just for your info... casting with a single cavity is about as close as you can get to zero production, while still having some production. -- Whitespider

  5. #45
    Boolit Master

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    Did you get the pilot kit that comes with the reamer or did you get a non-piloted reamer? Big difference in the two, very difficult to ensure concentricity with the bore without a pilot that fits really snug. You won't see it until you are done if it is off center.. Then you will need some fine rubber abrasives to polish it out with when you are done. Craytex, not cheap.

    Some barrels will surprise you in that you use the .4525" reamer that finishes about .4527" in a .45 Colt cylinder, but a .452" pin gage will not go into the chamber throat even after using a .4525" reamer on it. Ask me how I know this.. The barrel out in front of the locking lugs is thin and springy and will expand when you use the reamer on it, and the reamer won't cut cleanly at the diameter it's ground. It leaves some barely detectable high spots where the rifling was. For these you need a specially made aluminum lap with some very fine lapping compound.

    I do barrels for half the price of that reamer + shipping. $40 looks like a bargain, -until- you get into it and see that there is a LOT more going on than just chuck it up and cut it.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throat reaming? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? Shoot me a PM! Also on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Cylinderhone-756429174391912/

  6. #46
    Boolit Man Quiettime's Avatar
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    I got the same part number shown by the OP for my 1911 throat.

    I'm handy enough, have fitted hi-ride beaver tails and thumb/grip safties etc and I know less is more in this case. Can always cut more if needed but **** hard to put it back!
    And just for your info... casting with a single cavity is about as close as you can get to zero production, while still having some production. -- Whitespider

  7. #47
    Boolit Man Quiettime's Avatar
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    Got my reamer today.

    Tried to slip the bushing I made from a fired case on the reamer and it didn't want to go. Fearing the likelihood of slicing my fingers on the reamer, I figured I'd try without it.

    The drill thing, yeah...that's a no-go. So I found a small tap handle that fit the reamer fairly well. After several failed attempts I was ready to give up. The reamer wanted to grab too much rifling each time I'd insert it and lock itself up.

    So I decided to try the bushing again. I carefully forced it on very slowly with a small screwdriver pushing between the flutes until it slid over the reamer.

    Bingo! With the bushing I was able to carefully control the cutting depth and turn the reamer by hand, then tap it once or twice with the screwdriver handle and repeat.

    Worked out pretty well and I was able to put a really nice chamfer without going to deep. Best I can tell it is very concentric and smooth.

    Thanks again BD!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    And just for your info... casting with a single cavity is about as close as you can get to zero production, while still having some production. -- Whitespider

  8. #48
    Boolit Man Quiettime's Avatar
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    Here's the finished product, best as my phone will capture
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And just for your info... casting with a single cavity is about as close as you can get to zero production, while still having some production. -- Whitespider

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    So when I order the throating reamer from brownell's what should I get for a handle?

    I have searched on their site for reamer handle and the closest thing that comes up is starrett tap handles.
    I have a few tap handles, what size do I need for the reamer?

    Thanks,

    Matt

  10. #50
    Boolit Master

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    The handle you want is for their forcing cone cutter, it's aluminum with a setscrew, it's called a Chamfer Tool Handle, $12.99

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod26162.aspx

    The Brownell's .45 ACP throating reamer is made by Manson. It is a nice tool, however the nose is .4415" and I find that I use a .4425" pilot for almost all the .45 barrels I throat. That one thousandth of an inch undersize in the pilot can mean an off center cut in the throat that you can see with the naked eye. It you can see it, what do you think it will do to the boolit when it's fired?

    The cheap reamer Brownell's sells, is $40 plus shipping.

    The Manson piloted reamer I use is $75 + another $50 for the pilots. Plus shipping. <--THIS one is the one you want if you really care about how concentric your throat is.

    I think you have to get the piloted reamer right from Dave Manson, I don't think Brownell's even sells them.

    The service I offer is much more precise than the $40 reamer is even capable of. I do barrels for $20 plus $12.50 insured return shipping. The work is fast, concise, and professionally done. Want the quality offered by the high dollar reamer at half the cost of the cheap one? PM will get the ball rolling.
    Last edited by DougGuy; 01-08-2015 at 10:56 PM.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throat reaming? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? Shoot me a PM! Also on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Cylinderhone-756429174391912/

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
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    I ended up buying a straight handle tap wrench. None of the collet handle style handles I own worked. They all slipped and are worthless. I'm pretty sure the handle was made by Starett.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master
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    I like the idea of the cartridge case as guide/stop bushing.

    prs

  13. #53
    Boolit Master

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    I have put together a package deal that addresses not only the throat, but the feed ramp and the crown. Response by owners who have sent their barrels in for this has been very positive. This is a very affordable way to accurize a 1911 barrel and cure it's feeding woes all in one go round. It's a no brainer to see that the throat will now let you seat any style .452" boolit at whatever COA you choose, and these will "plunk" a whole range of different boolits, basically if it will feed through the magazine, it will feed and fire in this barrel without issue.

    A few shooters want to run .45 Super in their Glock 21 seated out long, the throat they need is slightly longer than what is pictured, but this is certainly the ticket for this setup!

    Radiusing the top of the feed ramp just breaks the sharp corner off the bevel, if there is one, it doesn't really alter the shape or size of the ramp, it just makes it smoother and easier for the round to break over the bevel when it goes up under the extractor and heads into the chamber. The "shoulders" at both sides of the chamber mouth are also blended in with the ramp and taken farther up the sides so they won't gouge or dent a boolit as it is being fed.

    Re-crowning the barrel may not look like it's needed, but you would be surprised how much improvement the crown makes when you have one precision cut on 20 as this is pretty much an optimum angle for burning gas to exit the barrel behind the boolit. The crown is sharp yet free of any burrs, and held concentric to the bore and square to the axis of the bore by a Dave Manson precision mandrel made especially for this job. Accuracy is un paralleled as this tooling has less runout than a lathe, and groups shrink accordingly. Recutting the crown helps to reel in any flyers and the most positive response has been that shooters will often notice they are putting rounds through the same holes on their target. Gotta love a good shootin' .45!

    As always, work is fast and professionally done. This package is VERY affordable, you can't even rent the tooling for what this package costs PM for details.



    Update 3/28/15 Currently offering this in .45 ACP, .45 Super, 9mm/10mm and .40 S&W!
    Last edited by DougGuy; 03-28-2015 at 03:43 PM.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throat reaming? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? Shoot me a PM! Also on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Cylinderhone-756429174391912/

  14. #54
    Want to say thanks to the OP. I know this thread has been around a while, but I've never seen the relevance people put on the importance of the age of the thread so long as the topic is still relevant. Anyhow...I bought the tool from Brownell's. I spent about 15 minutes with the cutter on my DW that has never chambered lead consistently. It took MUCH more cutting that I was led to believe. Anyhow, never got it to pass the plunk test. However...I did get it to function flawlessly. I even had one round that had completely jammed it the other day at the range (I mean it took pounding to get the thing open). But I fed it and it ate the round without a hiccup. AND I shot 4 groups at 21 yards, from a rest, that averaged UNDER 1.25"!!!! So I don't think my accuracy was hurt. The gun has always been accurate; usually averaging between 1.5 and 1.75". But 1.25"?!?!?!?! Needless to say, it was a good day! Thanks!
    Last edited by Jayhawkhuntclub; 10-02-2017 at 09:27 PM.

  15. #55
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
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    I took advantage of the package deal DougGuy provides for a 1911 45 acp barrel I had that wouldn't feed anything but hardball or a similar profile cast boolit.
    Now it feeds flawlessly with anything and is even more accurate than before.

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by tazman View Post
    I took advantage of the package deal DougGuy provides for a 1911 45 acp barrel
    I am building a compensated 1911 (on my SS series 80 Colt Commander) to run heavy 45acp boolits, and I just sent my threaded barrel to DougGuy for this package deal of throating, polish/bevel, and crown cutting




    Will

  17. #57
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
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    He has one of mine to have the same done to it at the moment.

  18. #58
    Boolit Bub
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    Realizing that this is a very old thread, I will weigh in anyway.
    I've been told by 1911 aficionados, that all replacement 1911 barrels need to be finish reamed. It's been my experience, though limited to only 9 barrels of various calibers, is that this is a true statement. This includes 2 45 acp barrels that were labeled as "Drop In", and 2 10mm barrels that were not labeled as "Drop In" but were. The 10mm Chambers were undersized in diameter and length, and had no throat.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    Well said. I just got back from Doug a brand new 45acp 1911 (Commander) barrel for a 45Super project I am working on, and the barrel "did" in fact need Doug to do the finish reaming. Doug also did the deep throating as I want to be able to shot "fat" bullets once I manufacture the compensator for this threaded barrel

  20. #60
    Boolit Bub

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    I bought the Brownell's reamer shown in post #14. I throated fifteen 1911 45 ACP barrels. The accuracy improved across the board and leading went to ZERO in each gun. Money well spent for a DIY project.

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