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Thread: does your lube have enough friction

  1. #81
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    Thickener and emusifier. That other "wax" blend from the Canadian site might be the berries for black powder along the lines Mike mentioned. Anytime I see something capable of holding water and oil both that also has a high melt point I automatically think BP.

    Soy lecithin added to Peal Lube, along with a dash of wire cable pulling lube was something I tried a few years ago for frontstuffers and it worked pretty well. Only problem was it dried out a bit over time.

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  2. #82
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    Never mind...answered my own question.
    Last edited by Elkins45; 02-21-2014 at 10:02 PM.
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  3. #83
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    Has anyone tried Ozokerite wax? This is a mineral wax. Adolph Leupold used it in some of his single-shot schuetzen lube formulas.

  4. #84
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    None of us that I am aware of have tried it. I don't think it is that much different from paraffin.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    Cetyl alcohol is a key ingredient in what makes the old Young Country Lube and Fiebings Mink Oil PASTE work so good for patched roundball in a fronstuffer using real bp....not sure how that would correlate over to smokeless "greaser" boolits at HV........might be a good course to follow......I love the smell of it, it would be cool if it works, but I think it is in the muzzleloader lube to provide/suck up moisture to keep fouling soft......might make a more consistent bore if moisture is maintained........I DO NOT KNOW, but I look forward to your reports.
    I have the formula for Young Country and it has no cetyl alcy in it. Sorry I can't give it out but it is the best lube ever for patches. I have shot over 200 balls in silhouette and never wiped the bore, took first place or second every shoot. Young Country let me hit 4 out of 5 chickens, off hand at 200 meters.
    Ballistol makes a good patch lube but you must wipe with a damp patch every shot.
    Something of interest for a lube is LPS-3. I use it to preserve ML barrels. It drys to a waxy substance and the gun will NEVER rust. I wipe with one patch, fire a few caps and load. It does not harm the powder at all. Be interesting if it could replace Alox.
    I have just a few spray cans that I hoard so can't try it.

  6. #86
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    ozokerite is also called ceresin in some places.
    I was shooting ozokerite years ago when I first wanted to replace the micro-wax lubes I had been using.
    anyway it's mined from the ground and occurs "naturally"
    it has a lower melt point than the micro-waxes do and once melted it tends to stay melted longer.
    I remember it draining out of one of my stars when I forgot about the lube sizer for a little while and had it on the micro-wax/carnuba lubes temp setting.

  7. #87
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    Stays melted longer- good thing possibly? Might help get past the relax point?

    The lower melt point isn't making me happy though, won't help in heat.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    I have the formula for Young Country and it has no cetyl alcy in it. Sorry I can't give it out but it is the best lube ever for patches. I have shot over 200 balls in silhouette and never wiped the bore, took first place or second every shoot. Young Country let me hit 4 out of 5 chickens, off hand at 200 meters.
    Ballistol makes a good patch lube but you must wipe with a damp patch every shot.
    Something of interest for a lube is LPS-3. I use it to preserve ML barrels. It drys to a waxy substance and the gun will NEVER rust. I wipe with one patch, fire a few caps and load. It does not harm the powder at all. Be interesting if it could replace Alox.
    I have just a few spray cans that I hoard so can't try it.

    My GMS data from a friend shows it has cetyl alcohol in it, and my sniffer that God gave me also says it does....weird?????? I have shot the Feibings PASTE side by side with YCL and they both shot the same even though their odors (to my nose) are ever slightly different. As far as patch lube is concerned with REAL BP alot of things work really well, apparently it is not a demanding role to fill. I use thrice rendered deer tallow more than anything nowadays as I have a bunch of it, and it is free for the rendering...and it works. I use ballistol for cleaning/storing and shooting too sometimes.........never had a rust issue, not once and I live in a humid environment. Patched Round Balls are just easy to get along with, sorry for the hi-jack I guess.

  9. #89
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    I will let you know how this stuff smells Mike. Hope it is better than ATF grease.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  10. #90
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    I'm far from a BP expert, in fact barely competent, but I've found BP lube to be an easy nut to crack for several reasons. The pressures are lower, we usually coddle and fuss with and baby the bore condition, we keep the bore sopping wet with lube so the C.O.R.E is consistent (if the fouling stays soft, it does so because the lube has wetted it from breech to muzzle and we're pretty much home-free), the shot strings are typically fired at slow rates, the velocities slower, yadda yadda. Patched round balls are a no-brainer because they are great friction equalizers.

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  11. #91
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    Patch lube is simple. We always used Vaseline hand lotion. Never wiped between shots, fouling stayed soft and so did my hands!
    Maybe we need to cloth patch our cast bullets?
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  12. #92
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    Morning Brad.
    Dad just had me wet the patch in my mouth. Always worked just fine. Bought some prelubed patches a year or so ago and still haven't taken the old flintlock out to try them.
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  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    My GMS data from a friend shows it has cetyl alcohol in it, and my sniffer that God gave me also says it does....weird?????? I have shot the Feibings PASTE side by side with YCL and they both shot the same even though their odors (to my nose) are ever slightly different. As far as patch lube is concerned with REAL BP alot of things work really well, apparently it is not a demanding role to fill. I use thrice rendered deer tallow more than anything nowadays as I have a bunch of it, and it is free for the rendering...and it works. I use ballistol for cleaning/storing and shooting too sometimes.........never had a rust issue, not once and I live in a humid environment. Patched Round Balls are just easy to get along with, sorry for the hi-jack I guess.
    PM in the works.

  14. #94
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    Nothing wrong with a spit-patch, as long as you shoot it fairly quickly after seating the ball.

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  15. #95
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    Nicest thing about "spit patch" is that you were born with a lifetime supply and no one gets accused of hoarding it.

    Personally I like a lube/oil in my bore over bodily fluids, seen the insides of too much plumbing I guess, but we is all free to use what we like.

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357maximum View Post
    Nicest thing about "spit patch" is that you were born with a lifetime supply and no one gets accused of hoarding it.

    Personally I like a lube/oil in my bore over bodily fluids, seen the insides of too much plumbing I guess, but we is all free to use what we like.
    Me too! Spit can be hard to come by when needed too!

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Elkins45, I've BTDT with regard to carriers other than wax, I'm all out of ideas. Just start naming stuff, I've probably tried it. As I mentioned on the first page, any carrier composed of solids fails the blowby/runover test. Brings new meaning to the term "lube smear". Hopefully you can come up with something I haven't tried, or give us a new direction to go. The only thing that worked consistently is an oil-saturated felt wad behind the boolit, a waxed-paper disc under that, and Dacron behind that.


    Gear
    I had a very limited opportunity to test my "biscuits n' gravy" corn starch lubes last week. The test rifle was a Marlin XL7 wearing an Adams & Bennett 35 Whelen barrel. It's a quite accurate gun; with the RCBS 200 grain boolet it exceeds my ability to shoot at 100 yards.

    The test boolet was a 230 grain gas checked NOE hollow point cast from ACWW. I forget the number but it looks for all the world like an elongated RCBS 200 FN. The powder charge was 21 grains of Alliant 2400 for no particular reason other than that's what my powder measure was set for and I figured it would give enough velocity to see if anything crazy happened immediately.

    Two lubes were tested. The blue lube was two tablespoons of dry corn starch and three capfuls (quart bottle cap) of Quicksilver semi-synthetic 2 stroke oil. The white lube was a 3:2 by volume mix of dry cornstarch and generic Vaseline. Boolets were hand smeared with lube and sized to .358 through a Lee sizer. The white lube was much more clingy. The blue had a nice putty like consistency but had almost no clinging power when forced into the grooves. The white lube still retained a bit of the cling and plastic flow of the Vaseline and was much easier to force into the grooves. I only loaded 10 of each, figuring I didn't want to have to pull down a bunch of rounds if the barrel was leaded up after the third shot. The rifle and ammo were cold-soaked in the trunk of my car all day. Shooting temps were just barely above freezing. The bore was scrubbed clean with Ed's Red before each lube was tested.

    Results below.

    Blue lube, first five shots:



    Blue lube, second five shots:



    White lube, first five shots:



    White lube, second five shots:



    Neither produced any leading, but the accuracy trend is interesting. The blue began opening up with the second string while the white began settling down. Hmmm...I'm thinking of mixing the two together to give the white lube just a little bit more body. The consistency as mixed is still too much like Vaseline. Handling and storage quality as mixed wouldn't make this a decent contender for anything except very specialized uses. The fouling wasn't as horrible as I feared it might be and there wasn't a sloppy lube star with either. I think I will load up a whole box of 50 with the next batch and see if it can hold consistency over several strings before cleaning. All in all this experiment was more productive that I had hoped, since I didn't spray holes all over the target and I didn't have to drive a Chore Boy down the bore with a three pound sledge.

    I also have 10 of each lube on a 170 grain Lee loaded up in 308 Win with the same 21 grain charge of 2400 as a more extreme test. That should break 2K and give me a better idea if I will get any leading.
    Last edited by Elkins45; 03-02-2014 at 09:02 PM.
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  18. #98
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    Very interesting...looking forward to the longer strings...../// 100yard targets????

  19. #99
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    75 yards. I shot them after work (dress shoes) and the ground in front of the 100 yard target board was a muddy mess.

    This is the boolet:

    Last edited by Elkins45; 03-03-2014 at 12:08 AM.
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  20. #100
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    I like to see that. The lack of leading is encouraging, and the groups held at least respectably. I think mixing the two together and shooting a bunch more without cleanings is an excellent idea. The consistency of the fouling on the edges of the holes is a good sign, too. Sometimes a lube will leave boolit holes very clean at first and gradually get darker for the first five or ten, telling us that conditions are changing as the barrel warms and gets seasoned.

    That flyer in the third pic looks yawed to me, so maybe a bad casting? Interesting how if the flyer is discounted the first and second groups with the vaseline lube are both small, but in very different places. That lube would definitely need a couple of fouled, cold-barrel tests to see about first-shot flyers.

    Keep up the good work! Both of those lubes would more than likely qualify as melt-proof/freeze-proof, at least in handling, and I'll give up a lot of other things for that alone.

    Gear

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check