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Thread: What to do with Rusty Stuff?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
    Before:

    Attachment 97571 Attachment 97573

    After Vaporust:

    Attachment 97572

    Not bad!
    Wow that looks great. If you are still refusing to buy yourself a 58 cal muzzleloader, you might have to sell that mold to me!

    (but the better course of action is clearly to buy yourself a muzzleloader! )

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed1 View Post
    Would navel jelly work as good?
    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
    No. It won't, but do feel free to try it.
    Dumb question, have you ever tried muriatic acid? Works a champ for me, especially after banging my head around with naval jelly too. Far more effective, and id be curious how it works compared to Vaporust. never had to soak anything for 6 hours in muriatic to derust anything.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Evaporust

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarflytyer View Post
    Evaporust
    Who makes this stuff ?? I'm headed to AutoZone in the morning

  5. #25
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    What's the best treatment afterwards for moulds and dies ? Our humidity is so high it's hard to keep the rust at bay

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    moisture displacing oil works best, for me. flood-spray, half-**** wipe off.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSGOldfart View Post
    What's the best treatment afterwards for moulds and dies ? Our humidity is so high it's hard to keep the rust at bay
    A sealed box with VCI paper.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

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  8. #28
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    I'm thinking about adding a larger AC to the shop to help remove the humidity

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSGOldfart View Post
    What's the best treatment afterwards for moulds and dies ? Our humidity is so high it's hard to keep the rust at bay
    Regardless of climate and humidity, I would recommend wetting with oil and storing in an ammo can!

    Keeping the mould halves from banging around is also very important. Rubber bands are useless in the presence of oil. I recommend using nylon tie-wraps to hold the blocks together.

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub Green Monster's Avatar
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    Wow i wish i knew about this stuff a few weeks ago. I saw a bunch of old reloading stuff with rust all over at an estate auction for cheap $ and passed it over. Now i know better and am kickin myself.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master beezapilot's Avatar
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    The cool thing about evaporust is it doesn't damage paint. We used to use muriatic acid in motorcycle tanks, then came the neutralizing and paint damage, this stuff rinses clean.

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    Dumb question, have you ever tried muriatic acid? Works a champ for me, especially after banging my head around with naval jelly too. Far more effective, and id be curious how it works compared to Vaporust. never had to soak anything for 6 hours in muriatic to derust anything.
    The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.

    Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....

  12. #32
    Boolit Master beezapilot's Avatar
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    I just ordered in another 5 gallon bucket from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Free Shipping to my door and used the "10off50" code for an additional $10 off... 5 gallons for $85.19 delivered to my doorstep. Get them while the gettin' is good.
    The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.

    Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by beezapilot View Post
    The cool thing about evaporust is it doesn't damage paint. We used to use muriatic acid in motorcycle tanks, then came the neutralizing and paint damage, this stuff rinses clean.
    oh yes, it does that. I tried a barrel cutoff, washing it after I stripped with via muriatic. Imagine my surprise when I came back the next day and the cutoff was bright orange! Neutralization is definitely needed with muriatic. If evaoprust is really $85 for 5 gal, sounds like it's very reasonable in price.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
    Regardless of climate and humidity, I would recommend wetting with oil and storing in an ammo can!

    Keeping the mould halves from banging around is also very important. Rubber bands are useless in the presence of oil. I recommend using nylon tie-wraps to hold the blocks together.
    Yep good point

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    Electrolytic rust removal is king.

    http://schoepp.hylands.net/electrolyticrust.html

    A quick and easy set up I have used several times:





    Results:

    I am told this should be done away from ones house. I'm just the messenger though.

  16. #36
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    Usually (usually) processes like this are hydrogen emitters. Hydrogen burns with an invisible flame, if not energetically. Anyone who played with MRE heaters know how low intensity the flame is. But flame it is, invisible or not, so there is a technical danger, assuming the reasoning for dis-proximity to one's home is gas discharge.

  17. #37
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    You would have to have a very large part, an unusually powerful DC source and a very tight house for the amount of hydrogen being emitted to be an issue. Yes, there is technically a risk. There is also a risk that a meteor could scream from the heavens and vaporize me in my bed. I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it though.
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  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy Baryngyl's Avatar
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    It might also depend on what mix your using in the Electrolytic rust removal as to what the gas is that it creates (just guessing).

    The few times I tried it I used a water/washing soda mix, powered it with a low amp 12 volt car battery charger and it did bubble some but I do not know what the bubbles were.


    Michael Grace
    +1 on PIF's

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check