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Thread: Help with S&W 28-2

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,377

    Help with S&W 28-2

    I got a steal on a 28-2 but I need to find some new springs. I need to know how to remove the pin that holds the Ejector/lock at the front of the ejector rod in. Does it drift r>l or l>r?

    Also, how is the ejector rod held into the cylinder? I think it is the old style with the recessed heads and a slot in the side of the ejector rod.

    This is becoming an ordeal.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    williamwaco's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Dallas Texas
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    search Youtube for videos.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
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    - Henry Ford

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Huntington, Indiana
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    372
    The drift pin is either direction. The ejector rod is threaded onto the ejector star shaft. 28-2 should have left hand threads. If you decide to try to unscrew it yourself be sure to insert a couple fired cartridges into the cylinder to help take the strain off the star itself.
    Brownells for small parts. If you don't have a Brownells catalog, just give them a call and ask for help.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    East TN
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    1,276
    Ejector latch pin removal: The drift pin that secures the ejector rod housing is rather small, even smaller than most commonly available drift punches. What I have used in the past is a #18 steel wire nail (this measures .048" diameter) either 3/4" or longer (available in packets from your local hardware or hobby store). Leave the head intact and file the pointed end flat to use as a drift. Close the cylinder in the frame so the latch is compressed in it's housing. Drift out the pin, carefully open the cylinder to capture the plunger and spring. Take the time to clean these parts and their recess with solvent. A pipe cleaner and solvent will clean out the recess on the barrel. You may find that cleaning will restore function and additional parts may not be needed. When reassembling, insert the spring and latch, then the drift nail to hold them in place. Close the cylinder to keep them compressed. Wiggle the nail drift to ensure the plunger is aligned to accept the drift pin, start and seat the drift pin (you may want to hold it with needle nose pliers when starting it, one faulty rap with your hammer may otherwise send it to the twilight zone).

    Ejector rod removal: Remove the sideplate screw ahead of the triger, open the cylinder and remove it and the yoke toward the front. The cylinder assembly will slide out of the yoke. Secure the ejector rod tightly in a padded vise, insert empty fired UNsized cases in all 6 chambers, unscrew clockwise. Spread out your parts in the order they come out of the assembly to assist you with reassembly. Reassemble in reverse, making sure you insert the empty cases in the chambers during this time. Good luck with your project.

    Thin Man

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check