You should at least be aware of the Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot for boolit casting, $63, as an option to making one from a tank. Many folks use this guy.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/7-90947
Sold by most distributors of reloading equipment.
You should at least be aware of the Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot for boolit casting, $63, as an option to making one from a tank. Many folks use this guy.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/7-90947
Sold by most distributors of reloading equipment.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
My guess is that he was talking about making a bottom pour pot for volume casting ingots, not casting boolits. If you are, and have hoisting equipment, don't bother with a bottom pour. It will just be trouble. Make your pot with a pour lip and handles that balance it full. Grab the handles with lifting equipment, grab the pot with a hooked stick, and tilt pour into ingot molds. That's how they handle tons of fluid steel, after all.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
I paid 55$ for each mould with wood handles they are a work of art everything is cut square and all seems are tight I think this is what it takes to have moulds that release your led ingots with out having to beat on them, all the welding is on back side. I paid $2.20lb for 20 to 1 alloy.
I use two Lee 4-20 bottom pour pot for boolit casting I have a 10lb pot also. They all work great for the price. one has a PID on it.
I got a smelting pot from the scrap yard that's the bottom 16" of a stainless beer keg. It was past it's last test date and somebody else had cut it with a torch. I've never tested it's max capacity but 300lbs is easy.
Update - I cut about 10lbs off the keel yesterday with an acetylene torch. It went better than expected and I think I can refine the technique and speed up the process. The biggest PIA with the torch method is the paint on the keel. It is nasty, smoky stuff. But using a fan and respirator makes it bearable. Here is the first cut.
I appreciate the pot recommendations but have a bottom pour almost built following the steps here.
Maybe there is a member in Texas with some experience that you could get to help looks like a good two man job
I never would've thought that I would want a scrap sail boat. Nice.
My feedback thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter!
I think I would want to grind or buff off the paint before smelting, just thinking I'm sure it would burn off in the smelting process.
The acetylene torch is an expensive way to go compared to a propane weed burner.
The weed burner is slower on the start but will pay back after you get things going.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
torch the boat and let it melt into a thinner sheet? Just kidding!
Fred:
Be careful cutting that tank. I cut holes in the rim of mine to accommodate a bail which I can hang from an overhead tripod (made from rebar). It provides support in case the burner is out of balance.
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DRNurse1
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Wish I were in TX, I'd come over to help you out. You want to cut a couple of 10# chunks off that keel I'll buy them. I don't need it smelted and cast into ingots.
I'll be following your thread to see how you're doing.
Re: Scrapping sailboats
Be careful of any "free" sailboats. Not all of them have lead keels. The smaller trailerables (up to 22-23') as a general rule have cast iron retractable keels. There isn't enough salvage value to beak even on disposal. The larger boats usually have lead keels but I have been disappointed a couple of times to haul a boat and find cast iron. And even the bigger "free" boats cost me quite a bit to haul out on one of my sailboat trailers, drop the mast, strip the goodies, and haul to the dump. Sailboats can be a great source of lead if you are careful.
Re: Weed burner
I will get my hands on one. I have an acetylene torch so I had to try it. It works pretty well with the acetylene cut back to 8psi.
Re: Pot stability
Hot lead scares me and I will not cut any corners here. The burner is well built and with pot and my additional 200lbs, is very stable. Just for grins I am going to add legs to the pot. I have too much scrap steel laying around to skip a simple safety step.
Thanks,
Fred
thanks for the heads up on the free boats. I am glad I let them go before before I busted my hump only to find I had junk. it looks like it must be right time right place and right boat to work out . i all so think you are on the right track with the amount of weight you will be handling you will need a strong set up so there will be no problems or burns involved. good luck and give me a call if you need help. Don
An axe will do to get chunks off soft lead and not only does not burn fuel, but does burn some fat.
Anyone worried about cutting a propane cylinder, consider a refrigerant cylinder, they are not refilled and are usually free from an a/c shop.
drinks, NRA life, TSRA life, SAF life, CCRKBA, GOA, JPFO, CBA, Def-Con.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |