Aluminum Sprue Plate

[Mike W1]

Any of you guys ever try them? Years back after reading about the idea in Col. Harrison's notes I made some for some single cavity Lyman rifle moulds that I had at the time. Must have been prior to owning a computer as apparently I made no notes about it. All I have are favorable DIM memories.

So today I made one for my DC Lyman 9mm mould and tried a few. Immediate thought was it seems to cool faster and "feels" smoother. Have one sprue hole in it that evidently needs a little polishing as it likes to hang onto the cut sprue but that shouldn't take long to do.

After I spent a couple more sessions with it I may just make a couple more. Seems like it might be time well spent.

[Frozone]

Well, the LEE 6 hole molds have AL sprue cutters. So the Idea has been around a while.

[Mike W1]

Yup but they're also aluminum blocks aren't they? Never tried a Lee 6 banger but I wasn't fond of their 2 holers. I know they'll work somehow but I found them to be a pain in the lower rear portion on the 2 or 3 I tried.

Well, the LEE 6 hole molds have AL sprue cutters. So the Idea has been around a while.

[Frozone]

Nothing wrong with AL blocks, although I prefer brass to other types.
You can't compare the LEE 6 holer to the 2. Totally different critters.

I do hear the new style 2 hole from lee is a Much better design than before.

[bhn22]

NEI used to use aluminum sprue plates too.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Once upon a time I read the article by Col. Harrison, titled "Aluminum sprue plate rated high" and went about making a number of them for various molds that I had. Aluminum plate was and still is pretty cheap so if one messes up its no big deal. I used 1/4" thick plate but you can also use 5/16". The plates work well. Anodized aluminum is a bit harder. Aluminum sheds heat somewhat quicker than iron, but as Col Harrison said, "Where can it go?",except into the mold or the air or hold it. Whatever the exact thermodynamics may be the results are good. I built a couple for my RCBS 2 cavs and they worked well too. The plates lasted quite a long time in terms of sharpness and they can be easily sharpened or replaced if necessary. You can also experiment with the size of the sprue plate hole, but I found that keeping them on the smaller side was sufficient. I used a rawhide mallet and a wooden dowel to hit the sprue plates and that did not harm them. Lead of course doesn't stick to them so no smears either, but you can still get them on the blocks if you go too fast. Flllout is at least as good as with an iron plate. Its a worthwhile project to try and I am glad that I did give it a shot. LLS

[gunoil]

Alum, spru plates suck big time. imo

[Mike W1]

Curious as to what your reasons are for that. I've only tried them with iron/cast blocks but they seem to do what the Col. said in his article. Maybe time will change my mind but so far so good.

Alum, spru plates suck big time. imo