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Thread: GunStock Re-Finishing, The Roger Method explained with Pics

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
    AlaskanGuy's Avatar
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    Before and After Pics of my Milsurp K31 using Rogers Method....

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    Rogers method works for me.. and you dont have to make things all glossy and such... I went about 1/2 way with shine and removing all of the problems with the stock... To me it still looks like a milsurp, but a Nice one....

    Thanks Roger

    Mark
    AlaskanGuy

  2. #62
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    what a rifle and i really like beech. your right one doesnt have to go to the high gloss. if one wants the softy oil finish glow, pumice stone powder is enough. i knew you were working on some thing, gets addictive doent it? thanks for the post.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Moose - Sorry so long gone! Your post helps a lot - both you and johnson1942. I'd never tackle this before reading your posts, since the entire action inletting seemed like voodoo to me. I'd also read different places that this was no job for a noob and Bubba was incapable .... Now I feel like I can do this if I take my time, work slow and don't force it. Thanks to both of you. When I get going - likely not till next winter - I'll likely become your least favorite hemiroid whit questions, but I do appreciate your offer.

    AG - SWEET! Nice work, as usual
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  4. #64
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    the whole purpose of the sticky was to help every one who had a mind to, do things with wood that they only thought about before. if i can do it, anyone can. it is really satisfying makeing a piece of wood look the best that it can. thanks for the feed back

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by histed View Post
    Moose - Sorry so long gone! Your post helps a lot - both you and johnson1942. I'd never tackle this before reading your posts, since the entire action inletting seemed like voodoo to me. I'd also read different places that this was no job for a noob and Bubba was incapable .... Now I feel like I can do this if I take my time, work slow and don't force it. Thanks to both of you. When I get going - likely not till next winter - I'll likely become your least favorite hemiroid whit questions, but I do appreciate your offer.

    AG - SWEET! Nice work, as usual
    No problem.. just remember measure 2 times cut onces.. I tend to then think about it even before I cut and measure again and think ahead. sometimes it isn't far enough.. The neat thing is even if you mess up you can fix it one way or another it is just trying to figure out how and then doing it. If you haven't done it before I would say to make sure you are working with fairly straight grained wood.

  6. #66
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    Has anyone tried colored die? Amanda wants me to paint the stock on the handi rifle blue, but I think dying it and refinishing would be better.

  7. #67
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    bullshop junior, check out steward macdonald guitar finishing catalog. they are on the internet also. what you are talking about is how to finish a guitar. that kind of finish would be good on a gun stock. other good guitar repair or building sites should have what you want also. also call a one man guitar building shop and talk to the builder on how to use the products you chose, ive done that a few times. steward macdonald also has dvds and poss. books on shade busting and finishing a guitar. let us know how it turns out.

  8. #68
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    You all make me envious of your talents,mine would look like a bubba job or a goats' *** sowed up with grape vine
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
    I have been hoodwinked but not by"o"
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    Support those that support the Constitution and the 2nd Amendant

  9. #69
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    thanks for the good laugh, but dont underestimate your abilities.

  10. #70
    Thanks so much w5pv for a new sarky remark. Can't wait to use it on my shooting buddy.
    I've done a lot of stocks and other wood over the decade, in this general manner. Right now I'm tacticalizing my B92, and since I can't find a black synthetic furniture set for it I'm-a rasp the former, poorly-patched-by-someone-else buttplate notch into a semi-Monte Carlo notch, sand it down, then dye it black with an alcohol base dye, seal it with a matte poly, and fit a new black pad on it.

  11. #71
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    check out the refinished restored rust bucket mossberg the alaskan guy did on the factory rifles section of cast boolits. really nice job.

  12. #72
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    AlaskanGuy..Sent PM

  13. #73
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    i want to update my finishing process. ive changed what i do on the top coat and it saves a lot of time and i think comes out even better. in stead of poly urethane as a top coat ive gone to a spray on high gloss clear enamal that they top coat paint finished on cars. the ones ive got at auto supply stores in a spray can have been good but recently the lady who runs the local auto parts store did some research for the highest end one she could get. ive tried it and it is the very very best ive tried out their. cost more but it is worth every penny. goes on better, polishes out faster and looks better. it called napa specialty cut-in acrylic clear, number 8887. says it is available in canada also. cost about 25 dollars for a spray can in stead of the usual 4 to 9 dollars. again it is worth every penny. put several coats on for a top coat, let each one dry good before you put the next coat on. rub out when completely dry first with pumice powder, then with rotten stone, then with HUTS plastic polish then finally with brownells 5F rubbing compound. you wont have to rub much with pumice and rotten stone before you get to the Huts plastic polish stage. also you will think you cant get a higher polish than Huts but the brownells 5F will even take it up to a higher trasparent gloss like you have never ever seen before. their it is, my up date and i see nothing come down the road better that that yet, johnson 1942.

  14. #74
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    Having stained my forearm with Minwax black walnut stain I found the stain was not dark enough, so I applied another coat after the first coat set for 4 hours. Now the second coat will not dry completely, it remains tacky. Question is how do I get it to dry. Its been tacky for 5 days now.

  15. #75
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    take paint thinner and rub it off untill you get what you want. that type of finish wont build up on the surface of the wood. it only goes in the wood. your best by far wood stain is leather dye, it really gets into the wood. get some leather dye that is not water based and thin it some in a container and work it into the wood. then wash off and rub down for a natural oil finish or top coat several layers with the finish i recommended above. when the wood has enough of the finish you put on it it wont take any more and just gets gummy.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the help johnson1942. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.

  17. #77
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    Good post for sure. I have made many custom stocks for friends and myself. I have refinished hundreds.
    Some stocks will never let dents steam out, will drive you nuts.
    I use Accra Glass for cracked stocks, stain it to match with the stain that comes with it. Force it DEEP and then wrap with strips of inner tube or surgical tubing, TIGHT! Fix cracks first, you will not see them if done right. Don't fill them, close them up.
    Leather dye sounds OK but the best is Laural Mountain and you can mix walnut and cherry to match the English finish.
    I remove all finish with paint remover but Rem stocks with epoxy need scraped. Remove finish from checkering with paint remover and a toothbrush or re cut. Mask checkering and never sand it.
    Where wood meets metal, NEVER sand below the metal.
    I use only Tru Oil to finish and fill grain. Lot of work with 0000 steel wool.
    Once grain is filled to dead smooth I use a touch up spray gun with thinned Tru Oil. Spay a thin coat and prop in a vise, I use a dowel in a stock hole or screwed into the channel. Let get sticky and spray again, never let fully dry. 5 to 6 coats that blend together is what you want. If you let each coat dry and rub it out you will break through layers and see it. The secret is to keep the layers only sticky so you have one thick coat in the end as a new layer will dissolve into the previous one.
    Now it must dry until you can't smell any finish. I have propped stocks in the truck cab in the sun to speed it up, does no harm to Tru Oil. Might take a few weeks.
    Now remove tape from checkering and put Tru oil on it and use a tooth brush, you do not want a build up. Just soak the wood and remove excess, wipe off any outside the checkering. 2 coats is enough. If you checker a stock, finish all the way first. Don't checker an unfinished stock.
    I have checkered punky wood and lost a diamond here and there. You can use super glue to harden the wood and replace a lost diamond with Accra Glass and cut again. Color the Accra Glass.
    With one thick layer of finish, you can rub it out without the dreaded "break through of layers." Worst thing is trying to hide one.Attachment 156731Attachment 156732Attachment 156733 My swede stock, made from cherry that fell in my woods. Attachment 156734 My flintlock, made from a curly maple plank.

  18. #78
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    You have not lived until you checker by hand. The swede is my second job. i was asked to checker for years so I bought tools. I practiced on scrap wood and tore it to shreds. Can't do it so I drew a pattern on a WW .22 smooth bore I made a stock for. Not a single mistake so I then made the swede stock. Practice is like dry firing, no use at all.
    On my ML's I leave wood 1/8" thicker to carve then remove wood to final shape. I made my own tools because store bought tore wood. Junk chisels.
    By the way, all curly maple must be cut cross grain or it will chunk out.

  19. #79
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    If you carve at all and want a "V" chisel, Take a small triangle file and a Moto Tool. Cut a "V" chisel on the end. You can follow any line in any direction like butter.Attachment 156739Attachment 156740
    better picture and an Enfield stock I did.

  20. #80
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    Resurrected Thread

    Folks,

    been sweating cosmoline out of an '03 "C" stock. Greek return and full of cosmoline.

    After many hours of sweating the cosmoline out in the sun, it is to the point where I'm not getting a lot out anymore.
    Used to look like a glazed ham or BBQ ribs from the leakage of melted cosmo. not anymore.
    I've never used alcohol based dyes or stains. Always used water based. Will the alcohol penetrate the area's of residual cosmoline??

    What about water based dye?? I thought I might get a damp sponge and wet down the wood. Will the area's with retained cosmoline bead up or the water won't soak in??

    I have read about the Feibig's dye. The medium brown is supposed to have a touch of red in it. I would like some read showing, but not overdone. There are also threads that say RIT dye can be mixed with alcohol.

    When it is done being stained, it will be finished with organic BLO.
    Any advice is appreciated.

    Thanks, Shiloh
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check