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Thread: GunStock Re-Finishing, The Roger Method explained with Pics

  1. #41
    Boolit Man
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	96754 This is my dry box i made. I regulate the temperature and the humidity with it. on the far right is my 458 Win Mag Stock I got a broken Kevlar stock that had an Aluminum bedding block.. I remilled it for my Mauser 98 and fiberglassed and devconed the inside for a 1 to 1 fit. I will paint it and start finishing it withing the next week or so.. and I will give you an update.

  2. #42
    Boolit Man
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    Ok well I don't usually take pictures of my work.. maybe I should but O well. I hope this is what you wanted.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master AlaskanGuy's Avatar
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    Very nice job moose..... Beautimus... Lol. What are you using to stain with on that maple??? Leather die??? Minwax???

    AG

  4. #44
    Boolit Man
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    transtint is what I use.. it is a Dye not a Stain.. You can purchase it at woodcrafters. I used black then I sanded it to orange. You can't put poly over the dye.. you have to use a Dewaxed Shellac to seal it.. make sure you do not get it to hot with the shellac on it. Make sure it is Dewaxed shellac. you have to put it on before you put a finish on it. truoil, pro custom.. I used just plain high gloss minwax poly, high gloss I thin with naptha and wet sand with 320 in between coates. I do it until I have all the pores filled..

  5. #45
    Boolit Man
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    wait I only answered for the orange and black stock.. the first one I ever did I I used poly to fill pores then mud rubbed then finished up with pro custom oil with a hand rub finish. I have no idea how many I have done now but I am always experimenting with crappy wood and what not trying to make it look good.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Moose - great work! I've got a Savage 110 LA I's like to make a stock for. I have a piece of curly maple I was saving for a muzzleloader that's pretty special - it came off the farm I called home for 54 years. I've read that inletting the action is the toughest part of the operation. Any advice for a raw beginner?
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  7. #47
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    cut the outline on a band saw. use the old stock to make the out line. over and over mark the new stock from measurements from the old stock. use good wood chisles. always have the old stock next to you to check and recheck. go slow and dont work distracted or tired. the new stock is in that block of maple you just have to bring it out. have good shapeing files. flat ones, round ones and 1/2 round ones. i start out with a hoof rasp, i think it is the best rough wood file their is. draw lots of lines that are measured from the old stock. go ahead, your not punching a clock, take your time and it will get done.

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    A couple of ideas on getting rid of the two holes. you can use a hole saw to cut a plug out of but under the recoil pad, and use this to cut an inlay plug, make sure the inlay grain runs same way as stock. Another idea is cut off offending area and replace with a contrasting coloured nose cap.

  9. #49
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    stephen, i can see youve been their before. theirs always a way to solve a problem isnt their. i like your idea about a nose cap.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master
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    Yes I just did a nose cap on a custom martini stock that was damaged. The hole saw idea was my bosses idea when I was only a young apprentice repairing and old 303 Lee Enfield.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Now I'm scared. You guys are giving me too many "bright" ideas! Shaping a noes cap shouldn't be a big deal and I guess the barrel channel could be cut using either a rat tail file or a dowel rod and progressively finer sand paper. Biggest question - how (and when) do you attach it? I'm guessing glue, but what kind? do you need dowels or biscuits? I've seen this done using both straight and angle cut. Be kinda cool to put a matching grip cap on the pistol grip. Another project for NEXT winter, me thinks
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
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  12. #52
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    get a 1/2 inch bradpoint drill bit. drill straight back into the stock a 1 inch or so in from the front on the square cut off spot. do the same to the nose piece. cut a 1/2 wooden dowel to the right length, just a little short for the glue behind it. use gorilla glue and rig it tight together, straight and so it doesnt move. also glue on the two ends that come together. also can use a 3/4 dowel if you want. brad point bits a expensive in the bigger one so you might want to stay with 1/2 inch. that one way.

  13. #53
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by histed View Post
    Moose - great work! I've got a Savage 110 LA I's like to make a stock for. I have a piece of curly maple I was saving for a muzzleloader that's pretty special - it came off the farm I called home for 54 years. I've read that inletting the action is the toughest part of the operation. Any advice for a raw beginner?
    Sorry for taking so long to respond to this.. I forgot I posted the pics on here.. As Johnson said make and outline of how you want it. I like to to cut about 1/8" outside the line and on my length of grip I like to cut around 1/4 that way I can keep picking it up as I am holding it up and see what feels right. Inletting is the easy part because everything underneath is hidden when put together. make sure you measure the gap between your action screws and make some small holes at that distance apart where you want your reciever to set. I like to take some steel rods and put threads on them to match the reciever threads and screw them into the reciever and use them as guides in the holes.. Make sure you make the holes just barely bigger than the rods and make sure the rods are the same size as the Outer diameter of the action screws. That way when you set the reciever down you can also slide the bottom metal up the rods to trace around.. I will take a wax pencil and and machines square and go around the outside of my barreled action. and you can stat removing the wood inside. If you get down close to where you need to be. I will smoke the action and barrel and or bottom metal.

    When I say smoke I will take an oil candle or lantarn whatever you call it. and light it and hold the metal over the fire and it will blacken the metal.. and when you slide it in the reciever the smoke on the metal will indicate where it is touching the wood. You can also use Pressian blue I think it is called. you can get it from brownells.

    When you get close I will scrap a small amount of metal at a time.. you can make a scraper out of a bandsaw blade that is bad or any other piece of metal.

    If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.. If I don't answer you can PM me to check and I will gladly. I hope that helps you

  14. #54
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by histed View Post
    Now I'm scared. You guys are giving me too many "bright" ideas! Shaping a noes cap shouldn't be a big deal and I guess the barrel channel could be cut using either a rat tail file or a dowel rod and progressively finer sand paper. Biggest question - how (and when) do you attach it? I'm guessing glue, but what kind? do you need dowels or biscuits? I've seen this done using both straight and angle cut. Be kinda cool to put a matching grip cap on the pistol grip. Another project for NEXT winter, me thinks
    You can use a dowel rod in some places like around a cheek piece or top of the grip. If it was me I like to wrap a rubber Eraser with sandpaper. so it can contor the stock and not leave flat lines down the stock.

    I like to use wood rasps I have them from rough to smooth. but then again it is my profession. I have used metal files but make sure you clean it very well and get all the oils off of it.

    the nose is easy but I use a table sander to rough it out then.. sand paper in the palm of your hand and act like your polishing the knob.. go rough to smooth on the sandpapers. .

  15. #55
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    Everyone has a different way of doing the same thing. There is more than one way to skin a cat and get the same result or close. If I do a different color nose cap I will glue it after I get the barrel channel pinned and glued on and then match the barrel channel. after I have the barrel channel I will then shape it or use an old block plane or rasp to get it one to one with the rest of the wood. I will also add if you are doing ebony or other hard woods that like to crack I will cover with elmers glue every night so they are sealed. so I try once I get them on to do every thing I can every night so they don't crack over night. I have had it happen and it sucks.. Food for though

  16. #56
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    im surprised the ebony cracks as i did the whole forestock of my cpa stevens 44 1/2 in a solid piece of ebony. didnt even have to finish with any coating. just polished to a high shine. that was 10 years ago and still looks good, it was so hard that it wore out a 1 1/8 round nose router bit in just that one route for the barrel.

  17. #57
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnson1942 View Post
    im surprised the ebony cracks as i did the whole forestock of my cpa stevens 44 1/2 in a solid piece of ebony. didnt even have to finish with any coating. just polished to a high shine. that was 10 years ago and still looks good, it was so hard that it wore out a 1 1/8 round nose router bit in just that one route for the barrel.
    thats when they let the ebony dry out.. most of it you buy now is covered with wax. meaning they just cut it off and didn't let it dry out.

  18. #58
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    thanks

  19. #59
    Banned Bullshop Junior's Avatar
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    I need to redo the stock on my 92. This looks really good!

  20. #60
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullshop Junior View Post
    I need to redo the stock on my 92. This looks really good!
    When you say redo? do you just mean refinish?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check