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Thread: GunStock Re-Finishing, The Roger Method explained with Pics

  1. #21
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    So I read this sticky and started looking at my model 70. Long history with that rifle, so just putting a Boyd's on it wasn't really an option. Today was a 'snow day' in Central PA and I had cabin fever. I took a few pics before I started...and learned a few things most of you already know. Citrus strippers are useless for taking varnish off a Model 70 stock, even if rubbed with steel wool. Varnish gums up sandpaper very quickly, make sure you have plenty if you go that route. It IS possible to sand around the checkering without screwing it up. So, as of now, all the old finish is off, the stock is sanded down to 220 and I'm trying to figure out how to fix the hole in the forearm. I'll post the pics when I get them off the camera. On the up side, I discovered that the wood is nicely figured walnut and should look great with a tung oil finish.
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  2. #22
    Boolit Master chsparkman's Avatar
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    Very well done. Thank you gentlemen.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Still waiting on them pics histed.... Lets see what you got sir...

    AG

  4. #24
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Alaskaman - sorry about that. I finally figured out that my files were too big to attach. Think its fixed now. Here goes
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    As you can see, the stock has been "well used." Didn't want to replace it, though, as this belonged to my friend and reloading mentor. When he died 16 years ago his widow gave it to me. Lotta good memories here
    Last edited by histed; 02-05-2014 at 11:28 AM.
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  5. #25
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    [Edit] Tried reloading the pics. this is what it looks like after the old stuff is removed



    This afternoon, if everything works out, I want to go over it again with at least 220. Then, if the weather hold, off to Lowe's for finer paper, pumice stone and so on. The wood is walnut. I want to add a reddish cat to it, but have on clue what might work. Red Mahogany?? Also nee to decide what to do with the two unwanted holes in the forearm. The shop teacher at my school (I teach history) has a plug cutter. Maybe that will work.
    Last edited by histed; 02-05-2014 at 04:18 PM.
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    AlaskanGuy's Avatar
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    Cant see the pics of the stock after prep....

    Looks like you are on your way sir... Will be able to tell more after the prep pics are posted... I tell you what though, it will be beautiful... Look at the awesome grain and movement??? Wow.. It should look totally awesome when finished...

    AG

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Texas Tinker's Avatar
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    Great piece Alaskan Guy. Thanks for taking the time to share. I'm looking forward to using your tips

  8. #28
    Cast Boolits Owner

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    Beautiful looking stocks. Nice work!
    "Things always get better once thought, time, and money are applied in the correct amounts at the correct time"
    - No_1 -

    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free
    that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
    - Albert Camus -

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    First class post and job. The only thing I could add is the use of Minwax Prestain before the leather dye. On beech and birch, it will enable the die to take an even color without splotching or spoting. I just apply a coat with a small brush and allow to dry as per the instruction on the can.

    Here is a Jap Type I stock, I refinished using the Minwax Prestain, Fiebings medium brown dye and the BLO. Of course after removing the old finish and prepping the wood pretty much as you describe. I have refinished beech/birch with and without the prestain and I get much better results with the prestain.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by histed View Post
    So I read this sticky and started looking at my model 70. Long history with that rifle, so just putting a Boyd's on it wasn't really an option. Today was a 'snow day' in Central PA and I had cabin fever. I took a few pics before I started...and learned a few things most of you already know. Citrus strippers are useless for taking varnish off a Model 70 stock, even if rubbed with steel wool. Varnish gums up sandpaper very quickly, make sure you have plenty if you go that route. It IS possible to sand around the checkering without screwing it up. So, as of now, all the old finish is off, the stock is sanded down to 220 and I'm trying to figure out how to fix the hole in the forearm. I'll post the pics when I get them off the camera. On the up side, I discovered that the wood is nicely figured walnut and should look great with a tung oil finish.
    Formby's Furniture Refinisher will remove varnish and lacquer like magic when applied as per the instructions on the can. It won't remove oil finish or any of the new polymer finishes. Many of the proprietary gun stock finishes like Tru-Oil and Lin-Speed are in fact lacquer or varnish base and will come off easy with this stuff.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Char-Gar - thanks for the help. This goes in my notebook for next go-round. If I'd seen your Jap before I sold mine, I'd have done the same thing, I think. Mine was 6.5 - what's this?
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  12. #32
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    i very happy to read alot of guys are looking at their old guns and realizeing the potential that is in the old stock. they can be made to be better than they ever where ment to be. if a person wants to make the stock all the same even color the pretreatment is a good idea. i my self like the movement of the grain in birch and the diff shades that come out of it. i guess it is a matter of personal preference. as far as have a touch of red in the color of your stock, as mentioned in how to refinish a stock a few drops of red leather dye in medium brown leather dye will do the trick. give you a english or winchester brown red color to your finish. if you want to cover up the plugged hole in you stock. try a couple of inlays. you can find them on the internet for guitars and ect. also you can look under knife makeing materials for inlays . you can cut your own or buy precut inlays. many a beautiful gun has had inlays put over mistakes or flaws in the wood. you could even make a inlay out of a lighter colored hardwood and it would look nice. all it takes is go at it slow and do it carefully. im building a custom muzzleloader right now and im going to put two bone inlays in the stock. again enjoy reading what every one is doing.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    The Japanese Navy wanted rifles for their "Marines" and the Army controlled the Jap arsenals, so the Navy contracted with Italy to produce 6.5mm rifles on the Carcano action. In all other respect they looked like and felt like Arisaka rifles, although on the whole, they were more accurate and better made than the Jap made rifles. The rifles were made in Italy and loaded on cargo vessels and transferred to Jap cargo subs in mid-ocean for deliver to Japan. They are called the Type I, "I" being Italy.

    If you want to stain your Winchester stock with a red element, I will suggest "Chestnut Ridge dark walnut military stain with a hint of red". This is an oil based stain that works well on walnut stocks. Beech and Birch requires an alcohol base stain like the aforementioned leather dye.

    I have not tried it, but a 50-50 mix of Minwax red mahogany and Minwax black walnut stain is supposed to produce a color much like original vintage Winchester color.
    Last edited by Char-Gar; 02-05-2014 at 04:42 PM.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Minwax I've used with great success. This is what I was thinking and I have plenty of scrap to try it on. Thanks, too, for the history background. Knew the Japanese/Carcano existed, just never knew why. Another story to keep my history classes awake. Johnson1942 (as in the Johnson rifle?) I have done the light-on-dark inlay and really like it. Maple with walnut looks really good IMO. This one will likely get a walnut plug, though. Weird as it sounds, I need to keep it as close to the original that Russ bought - just feels right. Thanks everyone. Keep you posted as the project progresses (faster with more snow, slower without it)
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  15. #35
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Finished Product
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    There are some things I'm not happy with but I think it came out well for a first try
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    I love how the grain pops out, and the reddish undercast
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    Thanks to all for the advice and encouragement
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  16. #36
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    thanks for posting the finished stock. it looks very even and well done. something you can proud of. as for perfection, i wish i could be perfect also. each time i do a stock it always seems to be better than the last one. ive been waiting for your pictures and checking every day. its always fun to see what kind of grain is in a piece of wood. im working on a cherry stock right now. i didnt think their would be any grain in it but i was very surprised to find it has a lot of grain. cherry seems harder to sand out the scratches that other woods ive worked on but they did come out. my arms actually got sore from all the sanding i did on it. also i found out with cherry that i had to mix a lot of acatone with the leather die to get it to penatrate evenly. again thanks for the post and if you do more please show us.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master histed's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kind words, Johnson. Post yours when you're done. We has yet another snow day today. Since snow and liquid lead don't mix well AND I was driving my long-suffering wife crazy, I decided to try my luck with my Savage Mark II. Factory finish looked like chocolate milk. Under that stain was a birch stock. I've read that birch can be a pain to stain, but the stock has more grain and ...."bird's-eye???" than I thought. I also want to glass bed the action - something I've never done before. Weather guys are calling for another round on Monday/Tuesday, so... At least I should have some nice looking stocks by March.
    Last edited by histed; 02-17-2014 at 09:05 PM.
    All government without the consent of the governed is the very definition of slavery - Jonathan Swift
    You have enemies? Good, it means you've done something with your life - Winston Churchill

  18. #38
    Boolit Man
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ID:	96741 Ok AlaskanGuy.. This is the First Stock I every Carved from a Block of Wood and did everything too.. I made it a few years ago and gave it to my brother as a gift. I decided shortly after I wanted to make a synthetic stock for him to drag around in the brush. I don't know if you can see the pics or not

  19. #39
    Boolit Man
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ID:	96742 Here is another one I am actually working on right now.. I actually just went down to my messy work bench and took this picture for you.. I promise you when I finish this one you will drop your jaw.. The wood is amazing.. it is an exhibition grade piece of bastonge Walnut

  20. #40
    Boolit Man
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ID:	96753 I am also currently doing this stock.. I am doing it for a friend of mine that works for Hornady.. I hope the pics come in order but it is a piece of Curly maple that I decided to make look like a tiger for the heck of it

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check