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Thread: GunStock Re-Finishing, The Roger Method explained with Pics

  1. #81
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'm trying my best to remove the remainders of the impressed checkering on the pistol grip of my 1965 Rem 700 ADL. Every time I think I've got it- I wet the stock with water and Arghh. I shortened and reshaped the for end so it's good. I could go nuts wth a rasp but I don't want to change the shape of the pistol grip. Anybody been there? I DID a 70's 22-250 decades ago and I gave up and lived with it. I don't really care for checkering or stopping so That's out.
    I know-shut up and sand, right?
    Best, Thomas.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  2. #82
    Boolit Bub Discus420's Avatar
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    SO I never went to woodshop what's the difference between wet sanding and dry sanding? Do I wet the paper or the wood?? how much water ?? soaking wet?

  3. #83
    Boolit Bub Discus420's Avatar
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    Really no kidding do I wet the paper or the wood???????????

  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    The paper and rewet paper as it dries to clean paper and sand on!

  5. #85
    Boolit Bub Discus420's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    The paper and rewet paper as it dries to clean paper and sand on!
    Thanks Edward I think I got it where I need it now but I cant get it to stain I went to 400 grit maybe too smooth? I am also gonna try leather dye someone else mentioned it

  6. #86
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post

    I'm trying my best to remove the remainders of the impressed checkering on the pistol grip of my 1965 Rem 700 ADL.

    Every time I think I've got it- I wet the stock with water and Arghh.


    You can sand until you end up with a toothpick, and still not remove the lignin ( the substance that bonds the wood fibers together ) that was melted when the factory checkering was applied.

    I was successful, however, in converting the factory negative/impressed checkering to positive checkering diamond via running a single row checkering tool (head) up/down/across the rows with the tool cutting out the ridges between the depressions, leaving the high spots ( at each X ) as the tips of the checkering diamonds.

    If you attempt it, though, cut the partitions between the depressions with a razor knife before running the checkering down the rows.



    The photo below shows Negative Impressed checkering with the upper left portion converted to Cut checkering






    The photo below shows Positive Impressed checkering with the right portion converted to Cut checkering





    The photo below is of Negative Impressed checkering converted to Cut checkering






    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  7. #87
    Boolit Buddy
    Chad5005's Avatar
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    i would like to thank Alaskanguy and everyone else that posted helpful hints on this post,i have finished redoing my first stock with the rogers method and im very happy with it,its for my stevens 14 1/2,i went the tru oil route Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #88
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Tru oil is a very user friendly product that look nice.

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy
    Chad5005's Avatar
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    thank you sir

  10. #90
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    You can sand until you end up with a toothpick, and still not remove the lignin ( the substance that bonds the wood fibers together ) that was melted when the factory checkering was applied.

    I was successful, however, in converting the factory negative/impressed checkering to positive checkering diamond via running a single row checkering tool (head) up/down/across the rows with the tool cutting out the ridges between the depressions, leaving the high spots ( at each X ) as the tips of the checkering diamonds.

    If you attempt it, though, cut the partitions between the depressions with a razor knife before running the checkering down the rows.



    The photo below shows Negative Impressed checkering with the upper left portion converted to Cut checkering






    The photo below shows Positive Impressed checkering with the right portion converted to Cut checkering





    The photo below is of Negative Impressed checkering converted to Cut checkering






    .
    Thank for the info on this.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check