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Thread: Mould lube

  1. #81
    Boolit Master 1johnlb's Avatar
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    Frick is a manufacturer of the major a/c components for anhydrous equipment. Frick #3 is just a oil sold under their name.

    Well, those data sheets say parrifinic, which definitely isn't synthetic. Need to go recheck the labels on those drums and see where I got synthetic from.

  2. #82
    Boolit Bub
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    This is the stuff I like.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #83
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Okay I'm interested in this oil thing. Looking at Amazon I see 3 choices that seem economical and dye and ice free, however I feel uninformed enough that I can't narrow past that. Or maybe all three are unacceptable so let me know.

    http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2468-PAG-O...6%3A2661625011

    http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2408-Ester...6%3A2661625011

    http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2484-PAG-O...6%3A2661625011

  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    I find if I smoke the cavities and keep in the right temp zone they mostly fall out. I also have been using a cotton rag lightly empregnated with two stroke oil to wipe the underside of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks - no lead smear.

  5. #85
    Boolit Mold
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    Sorry, but the first part of this thread is blank. What are you using to lube molds. Thanks.

  6. #86
    Boolit Bub smilin jack's Avatar
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    Talking Smoking the mold cavities

    We tried disk brake high temp lube on the sprue cutter and locating pins. Applied just a tiny bit to a hot mold using a round pointed toothpick. The lube says good to 700*F temp.
    It was working dandy until the lead pot heater quit. Have ordered a new pot and repair parts for the old one.

    Have had great luck smoking the mold cavities with a candle flame. Most of the 6 slugs drop free and seldom require tapping the handle hinge pin.

    Was making 230g 452 with the Lee Truncated Cone gang mold, and Lee 188g 312 1R, sizing to 310 and lubing with my old 450 Lyman and hard red wax that came from a local caster. A heater is required so made one using 1/8" aluminum mounting plate that sticks out the back side with a garage sale clothes iron for heat. Works OK. The wax likes around 100 to 110*F to easily flow.
    Last edited by smilin jack; 04-04-2019 at 09:30 PM. Reason: forgot
    smilin jack

  7. #87
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
    We tried disk brake high temp lube on the sprue cutter and locating pins. Applied just a tiny bit to a hot mold using a round pointed toothpick. The lube says good to 700*F temp.
    It was working dandy until the lead pot heater quit. Have ordered a new pot and repair parts for the old one.

    Have had great luck smoking the mold cavities with a candle flame. Most of the 6 slugs drop free and seldom require tapping the handle hinge pin.

    Was making 230g 452 with the Lee Truncated Cone gang mold, and Lee 188g 312 1R, sizing to 310 and lubing with my old 450 Lyman and hard red wax that came from a local caster. A heater is required so made one using 1/8" aluminum mounting plate that sticks out the back side with a garage sale clothes iron for heat. Works OK. The wax likes around 100 to 110*F to easily flow.
    Where at in Oregon? I live in Springfield.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  8. #88
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I use two cycle motor oil and it works pretty good for me.

  9. #89
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by RED BEAR View Post
    I use two cycle motor oil and it works pretty good for me.
    Yes, especially the synthetic two-stroke oil, good stuff!
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  10. #90
    Boolit Master
    Tom W.'s Avatar
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    I just put a touch of beeswax on my 6 cavity molds after they get good and hot, and leave the boolits in while I'm doing it. I made the mistake once.
    Synthetic oil doesn't do well for me with the Lee molds, but works with my steel molds....
    Tom
    μολὼν λαβέ


    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  11. #91
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom W. View Post
    I just put a touch of beeswax on my 6 cavity molds after they get good and hot, and leave the boolits in while I'm doing it. I made the mistake once.
    Synthetic oil doesn't do well for me with the Lee molds, but works with my steel molds....
    I'm surprised at that! I use mostly Lee molds and haven't had any trouble with synthetic 2-stroke oil!
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check