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Thread: Mould lube

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master
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    If you have a varnish like that then you used way too much. I dip just the very tip of a swab in the oil and that is enough for more than a dozen casting sessions. I just keep the swab sitting there and wipe it over the surfaces needing lubrication from time to time.

    Literally a single drop is enough for one mould for at least a dozen separate applications and even that is too much.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    Way to much lube and loosen yer sprue plate the mold is getting damaged. Almost looks like a brass mold there for a minute. After you lube wipe it off with the dry end of the q tip.

    That dye does get everywhere...everywhere. It may be considered tactical because it takes a special lamp to see it or does it qualify as lrp?
    Last edited by freebullet; 04-09-2014 at 06:05 AM.
    If you think your a hammer everything looks like a nail.

  3. #63
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    You just can't douse a mold in lube that way, I don't care if you're using bullplate or anything else!

    I cast with a gloved hand. In order to lube the mold, I put the lube on the thumb of my glove by grabbing the bottle, plugging the spout with my thumb and turning it upside down for a second. I set the bottle back on the bench, and now my thumb is oily. I rub my fingers together to spread the oil out, and the leather soaks it in nicely.
    this way, If I ever need lube on the face of the mold, I just swipe my thumb over the mold block faces. Even though the glove looks dry, it's saturated with this oil, and allows me to lay down a very thin film without breaking my pace at all.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  4. #64
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    What happens if I mix it with Bee's wax and use it as a BP bullet lube? Inquiring minds want to know.
    Last edited by omgb; 04-20-2014 at 08:00 PM. Reason: spelling
    R J Talley
    Teacher/James Madison Fellow

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by omgb View Post
    What happens if I mix it with Bee's wax and use it as a BP bullet lube? Inquiring minds want to know.
    Same thing that happens when you mix it with KY jelly: less than admirable results.
    LOL!
    Sorry, couldn't resist!
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
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    Seriously though, it should make a great BP lube if one added some lanolin to make it hygroscopic.
    R J Talley
    Teacher/James Madison Fellow

  7. #67
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    It might but it could also be messy as all get out. Who knows, give it a try.

    Maybe 2 ounces of the ester oil, an ounce of Ivory soap, heat those til the soap is fully dissolved, it will foam and smoke a bunch. Cool it down and let it gel then add maybe 6 to 8 ounces of beeswax. A tablespoon of lanolin will increase the stickiness a bit.

    Give it a shot, never know.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  8. #68
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    $9 at OReilly's. Guy there said get it while you can. May not know of what he speaks. Don't know.

  9. #69
    Boolit Buddy 1911KY's Avatar
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    I bought some of this at Advanced a while back. It's UV100. They have UV150 as well. It does pretty well, but has to be re-applied after about 100 casts or so. It has a very distinct smell when applied to a warm mold.

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  10. #70
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    One thing you guys might want to keep in mind.. That ester oil is like a sponge in it's tendency to attract water. Keep the lid closed when not using it and open for as short a time possible. The rule of thumb in using it for refrigeration purposes is absolutely no more than 15 minutes exposure to the atmosphere. Water may not hurt for this purpose, but it's extremely hygroscopic.

  11. #71
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    Not having a manual in front of me, PAG oil is hydroscopic. I do not think poyol ester is.
    I know we hated PAG oil because guys were not cross reference ing and thus plugged up a few chillers. Also one engineer thought he'd save some money and had another group come in for a five year overhaul on a 2,000 ton chiller.
    They used the wrong oil and plugged the machine up.

    Thanks for the mould lube info. I have used refrigerant grade mineral oil and other syns. Hope this works better.

  12. #72
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    I can't keep up .I just got some bull plate.

  13. #73
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    What really stinks is I had to purchase a bottle of oil with the uv dye in it.
    Last year I was looking at a dozen 55 gallon drums of the oil. Yea sux too cause I'm cheap. I was in a past life a industrial refrigeration operator/tech. I used refrigerant oils in my small air compressor. No wax build up runs clean!!

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Powder Bill View Post
    What really stinks is I had to purchase a bottle of oil with the uv dye in it.
    Don't turn on a blacklight wherever you've been using the oil. The dye gets on everything. I absolutely hate having to insert dye into a system. The stuff is almost as back as Black Jack. No matter how hard you try to keep it off of you it ends up somewhere

  15. #75
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    Had a manager tell me that they had then leaks repaired in a chiller. I could see tell tale signs of oil!all over then place. Another expert came up and said, yep we put uv dies in the oil. P
    I asked did you loose any charge, ya know did the safety lift. Oh no so I go up on the roof that evening with my black light.

    LMAO the roof and half the air handlers glowed like a zombie target. No we never let the chill water pumps run last winter. The blew 3,000 pounds of R22.

  16. #76
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Tim, all the car salesmen in Texas are from some foreign country, really. I got the Autozone pint jug of the AC oil - used 2 cycle before. I just smear on the sprue plate, wipe with a paper towel when it's up to temp. I can cast a lot longer before re-lubing. The dye must be like what they put in Visiene eye drops years ago. Really fun to see who used the stuff at the dance hall with black lights, like Halloween.
    3,000 pounds of R22 that is a big chunk of change.
    Whatever!

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    3,000 pounds of R22 that is a big chunk of change.
    Right around $30,000 wholesale. You don't want to know what we charge per pound

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    Right around $30,000 wholesale. You don't want to know what we charge per pound
    We fill the 1 ton cylinders at the plant. The deposit on the cylinder is $4,500.
    So many guns, so little time
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  19. #79
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    I'm a refrigeration tech at a industrial food plant. Our system has 43,000 tons of anhydrous ammonia. We use Frick #3 oil in our compressors and I've been trying to figure out what's in it. Evidently, it's a secret. I've recently done some testing with it and 2cyl oil and a propane torch. The 2cyl oil burned away slightly faster and left the surface of a piece of ss sticky and tacky, where the Frick #3 left the surface slick feeling.
    I'm dumping about a gallon of this stuff a week in a waste drum, most of which is clean. We have about 5 55 gal drums on hand.
    I've got a new mold at the house that I'm planning in using it in.
    Does anyone know what this Frick #3 is?
    All I can find is " virtually no wax and fully synthetic"

  20. #80
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    Don't know what Frick is . I always thought ammonia used a mineral or petro base oil? BUT with that said ,I have never worked on ammonia compressors outside of the class room.

    Frick #3 msds shows it is petroleum based?? here is the msds from Sunoco http://www.sfm.state.or.us/CR2K_SubD...RICK_OIL_3.PDF

    Here is another companies add for their oil comparing it to Frick http://apcco.net/userfiles/files/APC...ication%20.pdf






    I use to like to deal with a outfit in Rochester NY named Davis Howland oil and coal. They could mix any ones blend and did do the distribution for all the chiller, pump, turbine oils. At a whole heck of a lot lower price than that 55 gallon drum of Trane , York or Carrier labeled oil.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check