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Thread: Mould lube

  1. #21
    Boolit Master



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    Thank's but that link just takes me to the opening page for car quest and tewlls me nothing. Did I miss it ? Never mind I got it, part #CQE7
    http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/s...411_?acesApp=0
    Last edited by gray wolf; 01-17-2014 at 10:58 PM.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    That looks like the stuff. You will not be disappointed.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    In addition to this lube, should a noobie still use the smoke method to lube the cavities or is there a specific lube to use within each cavity? Does the ester oil go between the sprue plate and the top of the mold and does it help to shear the sprue easier? I have 2 Lee 6 cavity molds but have not used them yet.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    First off, don't smoke a mould. It isn't needed.

    Ok, where and how to lube the mould.

    Get the mould hot first. Use a hot plate, dip in the melt, or whatever, just get the mould hot.

    Get a Q-tip and dip the very end in the oil. The swab only needs to be barely damp, soaking wet is going to be bad. With the sprue plate and mould open apply a tiny bit to the alignment pins and the holes they mate with. Be careful to not get any on the faces of the mould, getting it there increases the chance of having it creep into the mould cavities. Close the mould but leave the sprue plate open. Press the damp end of the q-tip to the area where the pivot screw is but on the side away from the cavities. The point of this is to get some under the plate where or pivots but reduce the chance of getting it in the cavities. Now lightly wipe the swab across the top outside edges of the block, keep it away from the cavities. I also like to apply a bit to the underside of the sprue plate along the outer edges.

    Close the mould and get casting.

    This will not make cutting the sprue easier as the effort required is far more related to lead hardness and how solidified the sprue is than it does with friction.

    I reapply anytime the sprue plate seems to be getting a bit draggy. A quick swipe of the already damp swab overt he top of the mould does it. If the mould gets difficult to open or close reapply to the alignment pins and sockets.

    I find that the swab can last a few casting sessions before more oil needs to be applied, it requires that small an amount.

    If you can easily see a lube film on the mould you used way too much. This can be wiped away with a dry swab, just keep it out of the cavities.

    Should some get in the cavities it will evaporate a way with some casting. This oil leaves almost no residue so a cleaning of the mould isn't really required.

    On a 6 cavity Lee I also like to apply some to the areas where the plate contacts the screw near the pivot point on the handle. Pretty much anywhere that two mould surfaces slide along each other can be lubed. Keep it off the inner mould faces and out of the cavities and you should be fine.

    Don't forget the lightly oil the handle screws with the same stuff, it makes removing them far easier.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master



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    Question, I went into town this morning & went to all four auto parts stores. Two of the stores only had ester with ICE 32 and yellow UV die. The other two stores had ester without ICE 32 but still had the UV die. I bought 2 bottles, one from each store that didn't have the ICE, one for me and one for winelover (john).

    Will the die leave a residue?

    Rick
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Mine has the dye, no residue. Those UV dies work at such low concentrations that they aren't relevant for our use. I bet there is about a drop of dye per 4 to 8 ounces of oil, if that much.

    Let me know how you like this stuff.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    Let me know how you like this stuff.
    Will do, just as soon as I learn how to cast?

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Have Tim teach you?

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    You should take a UV light to your molds to see how much dye is on them. Trust me, I work in the HVAC field for a living and it has a habit of getting all over everything. While I doubt the dye would be harmful. I have no desire to have it all over my tools and work area. My dye injection tools are segregated to their own box and they're in a box inside a box inside a box. The dye really gets everywhere.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    I don't have a UV lamp but that would be interesting.

    Maybe ignorance is bliss?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    Hmmm, it just so happens I have a powerful benchtop UV light source (I think it was used to cure UV epoxy) it'll burn the hair off a dogs.... Nevermind.
    I may grab a bottle of the UV shite and see what it looks like under the UV.
    Hey! I should be able to see if there is a crack in the mold eh? LOL!
    Tim Malcolm
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  12. #32
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    You will need some spectrum-blocking glasses to see the dye as it is intended. With the right wavelength gear, it will light up like the 4th of July. Dragon ain't joking, that UV dye (concentrated in oil for leak diagnostics) will get all over absolutely everything. The dose put in the AC oil is probably about 1/32 to 1/64 the strength of what we use for injection, so it's less obvious.

    I had a flourescene angiogram one time, they shot me up with about an ounce of that stuff and took pictures of my retinas to check for leaks. I joked with the doc that medical science apparently wasn't too far ahead of automotive diagnostic technology. The urinal I used when I left the opthamologist's office is probably still flourescent yellow.

    Gear
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  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Tim,
    Is your light white in color? I believe you have to have a black or blue light to see the dye.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    The glasses make it glow like a beacon. You can see dye w/out them if the room is dark. The color will be dull instead of fluorescent. The color is either orange of along the lines of High Visibility Yellow/Green. The Yellow/Green is a lot easier to see.

    I realize the concentration is a lot less then a tube full of a few ounces of the dye. But even when it's mixed w/ the oil it gets all over everything. Just giving a friendly warning so to speak, LOL.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    I best stay out of the dance clubs after casting?

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

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    The light has a blue look to it, but I have been cautioned to never look at it without the right glasses on,or it will burn my eyeballs.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    The light I have is a blue/purple in color. Mine came w/ the same warning. So what was the first thing I did. I looked at the light and then realized that was a really dumb thing to do

  18. #38
    Boolit Master

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    It's hypnotic........isn't it?.....

    I was actually hoping (if I found the right dye) that I could use the light to check actions for stress fractures etc. I just haven't gotten off my bum and figured out what the right dye is yet.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Tim, would this oil work? Apply to action, rinse well with solvent, look for cracks?

    To think all this because some guy with a Texas size hat tells me to go buy something......

  20. #40
    Boolit Master

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    BTW, Rick, If you would like, I can show you how to cast boolits with that nice "lube pressure relief divot" on the bottoms of them. LOL!
    I'm still trying to get a clean cut on the sprue plate. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to say heck with it, and throw in 2% tin, but I remain stalwart in my resolve!
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check