http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TC2xTCb_GU
Have you ever heard of an anchor holding SLOW ?
As far as some of us on this forum, we don't bite; We shoot !
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When needed I use a tinner's mallet.
Those that say use your hands........ maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me, on steel moulds if you allow the sprue to cool as it should to keep from "tearing" instead of cutting there is no way you can open the sprue plate with your hand. Especially on 4 or 6 cavities.
I currently use a piece of pine curtain/hanger rod about 10" long. Old hickory hammer handle is next. Ain't NWIH I'm going to beat 'em open with my hands! I have enough hand pain already. Nope nope nope.
I've been using a rawhide mallet since I started casting.
Still use the same one to this day.
Used a chair leg for a few years till it wore out now use a plastic faced small hammer no way I could move the cutter by hand
I may have to try this. I have a noe 360-180 wfn mould I have to beat like a red headed step child to get the bullets to fall out of.
Guess I'm lucky. At 74 I still use only my gloved hand to open sprue plates on all kind of molds. Occasionally a stubborn boolit won't drop and a tap with a wooden handle from something is necessary.
It's my experience that timing and attention fix most problems.
Information not shared. is wasted.
Exactly so. What the folks who are poopooing using the hand don't seem to be realising is that one does not "whack", or "beat", or "knock" the sprue plate open with the gloved hand. Once a good casting temperature and cadence are reached, only a quick pressure with the pad of the hand at the base of the thumb on the sprue plate handle will easily CUT the sprue.
Yes, if one does not get the mold to the correct temperature on the first pour or two, a tap with a piece of dowell may be needed to assist, but if you get them hot enough to start with I've not seen the need for bashing ones sprue plate and hardware potentially bent and out of alignment. (whack one off center and away from the blocks loing enough and hard enough). That's just personal experience, I know we've got members here who've been tapping the plate up to, and over a half century, and it works for them. I just don't like whacking, especially on my aluminum blocks.
That having been said, futzing about with a mould with a removable hollow point pin is a *much* bigger aggravation than any multi cavity mould I own,but having seen enough guys post otherwise, that's just me.
Last edited by Hamish; 08-13-2016 at 06:00 PM.
More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"
Last of the original Group Buy Honcho's.
"Dueling should have never been made illegal in this country. It settled lots of issues between folks."- Char-Gar
Well, I have had, 100's of, 'Srue' 'Mallets.
Sticks from the, wood pile. About 2-3" round.
Try this, Pour, wait a sec, tap the plate about 1/4, Just enough to drop off, the spruce, (in the re-melt container), Wait a 1/2 a sec, Open the mold, Then tap, 'LIGHTLY', the plate to all the way open. 80+% of the time, the bullet will just drop out. If it doesn't, than, tap, LIGHTLY, on the Hinge, of the mold. It will drop. (If your melt is correct temp, and if your mold is correct temp.)
Ben Franklin once said:
"If you give up a freedom, for the sake of security, you will have neither".
Which is More TRUE, today, than yesterday.
i USE A 12 INCH PIECE OF OAK 2X2 WITH ONE END SANDED INTO A HANDLE. WORKS GREAT FOR TAPPING THE HINGE PIN TO DROP STUBBORN BULLETS. USE THE END OF IT TO PUSH THE SPRU PLATE OPEN.
ONE SHOT, ONE KILL! SEMPER FI
i use a jack hammer.....i love power tools!
Hammer handle. I've had mine for 15 years with no issues.
I use broken hammer handles. like out of a claw hammer or ball peen hammer. works great plus they are cheap as in free. if you get the good hickory they make good knife handles.
Rubber mallet if I have not posted on this thread before. Mine has been around for 15 years or so and is as new.
Take Care
Bob
Its been months since I bought the book, "How to scam people online". It still has not arrived yet!
"If the human population held hands around the equator, a significant portion of them would drown"
I have to tap with a hammer handle...the little bit of arthritis that I have in my thumbs won't tolerate cutting that sprue with gloved hand.
I can not imagine casting again without a 6 ounce Garland rawhide mallet. Seemingly light as a feather but gets the job done on the first stroke every time. Non-marring and Amazing shock absorption too. I believe I was turned on to them by Ross Seyfried. I bought 2 of them 20 plus years ago, still haven't had occasion to use the second one. I don't know what Water Buffaloes eat but they sure have some crazy tuff hide. I honestly don't think you could wear one out in a lifetime of casting.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |