First Time Coax Owner

[Three44s]

I have been admiring the Coax from afar for some time but just acquired one and had my first session with it.

My reloading history goes back to 1975 and a RCBS Jr.

For 35 years that's all there was for a press. Then I bought a Lee Classic turret, good press.

A bit later I added a Redding Boss. That's been my main line single stage until the Coax came along.

As far as the Coax goes with my frame of reference, I like it!

But it's not magical. The claims about some super leverage ..... no. My Redding is easier in a significant full length resize on a 270 Win case (yes, I am lubing with good stuff). The difference is not bad but I can tell.

The shell holder: I think it's great but the first time a spring goes to outer space while I am swapping jaws, I am going to say some bad words.

Swapping dies: This is a big one for me! I like being able to click them in and out. The Coax press came with two of their rings and barring using Hornady rings, I will likely buy a bunch of the Forester rings. Getting the die adjusted the first time is a little fiddly but once it's right and "tight", it's peachy!

I load mostly sitting down and part of the leverage issue relates to whether a press is at the right height and for sitting my Coax is likely too high right now. I will be working on that.

I have not seated any bullets yet so I will be testing run out next.

Three44s

[country gent]

The coax is a great press and works very well. Ive worn mine out once and rebuilt it. Height is important for the ergonomics and applying full force easily.If yours is new it has the wear plate under the shell holder. This can help with keeping the springs captive. A little grease on the springs will help keep them captive also. When I rebuilt mine I cut the block down and added the wear plate. There was a divot worn in it. I loaded a lot of 308 on it for NRA High power.

[Three44s]

Yes, it has the wear plate.

I had not thought about some grease to keep the springs a little more tame.

I saw a video of a fellow who mounted his coax under his bench at approx 45 degrees to it and sat down with it. Standing for me is out since my back has been raising cob.

Thanks and best regards

Three44s

[THE_ANTIDOTE]

Congrats Three44s. They offer a set of jaws that do not require you to disassemble them any...just remove and replace the entire jaw with just the two bolts. They also offer a shell holder adapter so all ya gotta do is swap your shell holder. Hope you enjoy yours, I have gotten a lot of use out of mine and love it. I'll buy other presses, but I will never get rid of my Co Ax.

[dverna]

Buy spare springs…I have lost two in 50 years.

[jsizemore]

I've loaded a bunch of different rounds. Maybe swapped the shell holder plates 5-6 times and used the LS jaws twice in 20+ years.

[country gent]

For a lot of calibers the short handle is easiest to use and plenty of umph. The springs arnt a real big problem the big thing is how you handle the plates when changing with the wear plate pick it up with the top and everything is still captive. And as I said a little grease will help hold them.

A curved or "bent" handle might work better for you also.

[Three44s]

Yes, my Coax is definitely a keeper! I watched/read just about every review and article I found on the net plus volumes of posts on forums before I dove in.

The leverage will likely improve once I find the right relationship between the press height and where I am situated (sitting). I plan on making my own handles to try. I got by thus far by two handing the lever in that I grabbed the cast fork to start the handle down and then finished that at the end of it. Then I reversed direction and finished raising the handle with moving it home by way of the cast fork again.

I want to add a set of LED lights.

The jury is still out on the curved links however. I have read that overcentering is increased with them so I want to think that one over a bit more.

I am aware of the options for an improved jaw plate. Grease is a cheap way around the spring launch issue and buying spares is a definite to do. I also plan to buy the plate so I can use my standard shell holders if I find the need. I plan on getting the LS jaws because I do load 22 Hornet.

Three44s

[M-Tecs]

The jury is still out on the curved links however. I have read that overcentering is increased with them so I want to think that one over a bit more.

Not with this version from InLine Fabrication

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...er-co-ax-press

https://inlinefabrication.com/produc...ages-for-co-ax

[Three44s]

Not with this version from InLine Fabrication

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...er-co-ax-press

https://inlinefabrication.com/produc...ages-for-co-ax

Do you use this version of curved links?

If so, are you prone to skin your hands on those protruding horns?

Thanks

Three44s

[M-Tecs]

Do you use this version of curved links?

If so, are you prone to skin your hands on those protruding horns?

Thanks

Three44s

No, I have not used them. Only seen the pics. If I get around to it someday, I will make a set or two for myself. I rarely use the Coax's I have. I currently have three. The one I original purchased years ago and a couple from estate sales.

[Three44s]

I thought about making my own links, but I have not seen where the original ones are that onerous yet.

If I go with curved links that have "horns" to maintain minimal overcentering, perhaps I get more interference ( hide abraidded) than the straight links?

Or, no horns and the added over centering does not matter?

I think I will stick withe no brainers like LED lights and LS jaws for my 22 Hornet adventures and not sweat the link issue for now.

Best regards

Three44s

[leadhead]

I put the curved links on mine but there not the ones with the horns.
Mine have a small "pecker" sticking out on the back side of the link
that hits the frame of the press to stop over travel. They work great.

[Three44s]

I put the curved links on mine but there not the ones with the horns.
Mine have a small "pecker" sticking out on the back side of the link
that hits the frame of the press to stop over travel. They work great.

Could you tell me where you bought your links?

Sounds like I could relate to that style! LOL!

Thanks

Three44s

[leadhead]

I bought them from Amazon.

[Three44s]

I bought them from Amazon.

Thanks, I will investigate that!

Three44s

[country gent]

One change I made to mine is I pulled the little bottle of that catches the spent primers e clip and lid, found a piece of tygon tubing at the hardware store that fit the tube and put that on the tube. It hangs down into a old 8 lb powder can Now I only empty the primer catcher every few years. But dont let it get to full a 8 lb powder can full of primers is heavy

[Three44s]

One change I made to mine is I pulled the little bottle of that catches the spent primers e clip and lid, found a piece of tygon tubing at the hardware store that fit the tube and put that on the tube. It hangs down into a old 8 lb powder can Now I only empty the primer catcher every few years. But dont let it get to full a 8 lb powder can full of primers is heavy

I thought about something along those lines but a bit smaller. I have read about the tube clogging and fired primers backing up the stem. The result is the tube gets damaged on the threaded end and then you need a replacement. The primers dropping make a bit of sound and that tells the operator the tube is still clear.

Another thought is I have been saving firing primers for potentially recycling them for making them live again. One very large receptacle would not be the best choice for that with regards to keep them segregated.

My factory jar has 100 large rifle primers thus far and I can see upwards of 300 fitting in it. The down side is you hear the primers hitting far better when it's nearly empty. Once the floor of the jar gets a good layer on it, that muffles the soundd some.

Three44s