Cleaned and lubed brass, on a re-size, this got tight on the down stroke and the bottom of the case just snapped off.
It's stuck there tight as heck.
Can any of you guys advise on best ways to remove without damaging my die?
Cleaned and lubed brass, on a re-size, this got tight on the down stroke and the bottom of the case just snapped off.
It's stuck there tight as heck.
Can any of you guys advise on best ways to remove without damaging my die?
I unscrew the decapper, put as large a steel punch as will fit through the top down into the case. Leave the Nut on the die and hold the die in a vice (clamping on the flats of the nut), the whallop the case you of the die. Works for me.
A "Stuck Case Removal Kit" will remove that in a few minutes.
http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSe...ery=stuck+case
Back off the decap rod. Drill the primer pocket. Thread the hole. Screw in the bolt and bushing. Brass Slides right out.
It is hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.
Theodore Roosevelt
Soak in kroil oil shooters choice mixed 50-50 over night. Remove decapping assembly. Kroil will seep in between case and die carrying the shooters choice with it ( shooters choice has a mild copper solvent in its make up) and will help to loosen the "bond between case and die. Making it easier to pull with te stuck case remover kit. Freezing it may help also.
Thanks guys, rattketrap I tried your way first. Boy that took some whackin, thanks for the tip.
I got my die back, unharmed.
Now I have a crazy idea I want to try with these new-to-me Minnie boolits. I will find the right sub-forum here and ask.
Thanks guys.
Now, when I'm resizing rifle brass and if I know it's going to take some doing. I take resizing wax, thin it a little and apply it lightly to my lube pad. Roll the cases on the pad lightly and go about your business. I find you get less oil canning and much easier resizing.
The way machinist unstick things is to heat die to about 250-270 degrees. This will expand the die out word then put the head of the case on an icecube for just a few seconds, this will shrink the case just a litte and you should be able to tap it out gently and posibly without scratching the die.
CD
That looks like a Lee die. they are easier to get cases out without damaging the die. I got a case out one time by grabbing the brass with vice grips and twisting back and forth to loosen it. I've also took the die apart and drove the case out with a large punch.
Aim small, miss small!
The "strike" method has never failed for me. You can spray a little kroil if you like, but twisting I would never do. There is already significant friction holding a stuck case in place, twisting (particularly if the case is more than just a tiny bit stuck) could and most times will rip the end of the case off.
I have also rarely seen the differential heat in cooling work. Yes it works on forging dies, I've seen it done, but temperatures went far more to the cold end. Going too high on the heat messes up hardening, so they warm one side and cool the other with liquid nitrogen. You need a substantial temp difference. Again I've only seen this works when things are superficially stuck.
Last edited by rattletrap1970; 01-01-2014 at 10:29 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |